The Build Up
Having cycled up and down the middle of Britain last year, going around the edge seemed the obvious next step. How I ever got into all this is a bit of a mystery really, writing all this after I've finished I have a feeling this will be the last long trek.When I was teaching I was over 13stone now I'm under 11stone and my clothes don't fit- I'd better go back to fishing before I disappear.
Two extra little challenges were added: How many ferry crossings could I make without going out of my way? How many different real ales could I sample on the way round?
I spent a lot of time in the winter trying to put together a book of information to take with me. It contained lists of tourist information offices, ferry times, approximate mileages etc. but in actual fact I hardly used it as Alison was at home on the computer finding me places to stay and the answers to other problems and questions. Mobile phones and computers have made things a lot easier. My navigation system consisted of pages from a road atlas bought for 50p from a charity shop. Having come across and followed so many Sustrans routes during this trip, often not knowing quite where they were going, my advice would to also get hold of a copy of their national route map which I saw on various hostel walls during my trip.
Kit was kept to an absolute minimum with all my luggage coming to 9kg and that included the weight of the panniers. On my next to last day I met a cyclist in Cornwall who had just started a 2000 mile tour and was carrying so much luggage he was finding it a real struggle-he was really at breaking point after only 450miles and with the weight he had was struggling to push his bike up a hill when I met him as I came down. I met another cyclist who couldn't believe I was carrying so little and when we spoke about what he had with him, he was carrying 4 sets of cycling clothes. My only clothes were 2 sets of cycling and a pair of shorts, t-shirt and sandals for the evening. If it was cold I just wore my cycling leggings which I didn't cycle in all trip. All my clothing was quick dry and that makes a huge difference. My cycling tops were short sleeved and I had a pair of arm warmers for chilly mornings-a great buy.
Because of the shape of Cornwall I decided to have a day zero where I would cycle out around the Lizard and back so that on day 1 proper I would actually get further away from home and so on Friday 17th April that's exactly what I did. Alison met me out there in the car for lunch and then I came back home again to make final preparations for the real departure.
The Lizard is a beautiful area to cycle around but has a lot of short sharp hills on the east side aound villages like Gweek, St Martin and St Keverne but from here back to Helston is flat and fast by Cornish standards but then you hit the hills again following the coastup and down into Porthleven and then up once again back to Penzance. In fact altogether I did Penzance to Helston 3 times but on day 1 proper I wanted to cycle away from home and not put the bike in the car.
I'm going to keep this account as brief as possible, especially as there are 77 cycling days to write about. If anyone wants to contact me for information please feel free to e mail at [email protected] I've got so many stories and experiences to relate but I'm not sure anyone here will want to read too much detail. I am going to put together a book, just for myself really but who knows.Some of the people I heard/met were very entertaining.
Two extra little challenges were added: How many ferry crossings could I make without going out of my way? How many different real ales could I sample on the way round?
I spent a lot of time in the winter trying to put together a book of information to take with me. It contained lists of tourist information offices, ferry times, approximate mileages etc. but in actual fact I hardly used it as Alison was at home on the computer finding me places to stay and the answers to other problems and questions. Mobile phones and computers have made things a lot easier. My navigation system consisted of pages from a road atlas bought for 50p from a charity shop. Having come across and followed so many Sustrans routes during this trip, often not knowing quite where they were going, my advice would to also get hold of a copy of their national route map which I saw on various hostel walls during my trip.
Kit was kept to an absolute minimum with all my luggage coming to 9kg and that included the weight of the panniers. On my next to last day I met a cyclist in Cornwall who had just started a 2000 mile tour and was carrying so much luggage he was finding it a real struggle-he was really at breaking point after only 450miles and with the weight he had was struggling to push his bike up a hill when I met him as I came down. I met another cyclist who couldn't believe I was carrying so little and when we spoke about what he had with him, he was carrying 4 sets of cycling clothes. My only clothes were 2 sets of cycling and a pair of shorts, t-shirt and sandals for the evening. If it was cold I just wore my cycling leggings which I didn't cycle in all trip. All my clothing was quick dry and that makes a huge difference. My cycling tops were short sleeved and I had a pair of arm warmers for chilly mornings-a great buy.
Because of the shape of Cornwall I decided to have a day zero where I would cycle out around the Lizard and back so that on day 1 proper I would actually get further away from home and so on Friday 17th April that's exactly what I did. Alison met me out there in the car for lunch and then I came back home again to make final preparations for the real departure.
The Lizard is a beautiful area to cycle around but has a lot of short sharp hills on the east side aound villages like Gweek, St Martin and St Keverne but from here back to Helston is flat and fast by Cornish standards but then you hit the hills again following the coastup and down into Porthleven and then up once again back to Penzance. In fact altogether I did Penzance to Helston 3 times but on day 1 proper I wanted to cycle away from home and not put the bike in the car.
I'm going to keep this account as brief as possible, especially as there are 77 cycling days to write about. If anyone wants to contact me for information please feel free to e mail at [email protected] I've got so many stories and experiences to relate but I'm not sure anyone here will want to read too much detail. I am going to put together a book, just for myself really but who knows.Some of the people I heard/met were very entertaining.
Day 1: Penzance to Looe 75 miles
Well, after all the thinking and planning the day to leave arrived and as I said to someone, while I pushed the bike from my house the few yards onto the seafront in Penzance, "It seemed like a good idea at the time."
During the winter I'd spent ages on the internet and in the last few weeks the bike had had everything replaced that might wear out and I had been getting quite excited about setting off but when it came to the actual day I was very apprehensive and wondered if this was really such a good idea after all. Of course, having been telling everyone for months what I was going to do I would have looked a bit of a fool to back out so it was too late now.
In my hurry to leave Cornwall and Devon-areas I know too well- I very nearly fell into a trap. These are very hilly counties and I did too much too quickly. I'll elaborate later.
During the winter I'd spent ages on the internet and in the last few weeks the bike had had everything replaced that might wear out and I had been getting quite excited about setting off but when it came to the actual day I was very apprehensive and wondered if this was really such a good idea after all. Of course, having been telling everyone for months what I was going to do I would have looked a bit of a fool to back out so it was too late now.
In my hurry to leave Cornwall and Devon-areas I know too well- I very nearly fell into a trap. These are very hilly counties and I did too much too quickly. I'll elaborate later.
I waved goodbye and set off along the promenade out along the main road to Helston and then on to Falmouth and Penryn. My first ferry was to be The King Harry Ferry and it was here I said my final farewells to Alison who had followed me for the morning. Plenty of hills already and a big one after the beautiful river crossing.
From the ferry to Mevagissey and St Austell was very hilly but from St Austell to Fowey and then to Looe was hurrendous. In total I covered 75 miles on day 1 and as I was fresh this was fine but it would catch up with me later. The trouble with the coast here is that you keep diving down to little fishing villages like Polperro and then up and out of them.
The second ferry crossing was on the passenger ferry from Fowey to Polruan, another lovely crossing but a huge hill to go up after with no warm up first- I was determined not to walk today and I didn't.
Got to Looe at 6pm and stayed at a good B&B called Schooner Point.
From the ferry to Mevagissey and St Austell was very hilly but from St Austell to Fowey and then to Looe was hurrendous. In total I covered 75 miles on day 1 and as I was fresh this was fine but it would catch up with me later. The trouble with the coast here is that you keep diving down to little fishing villages like Polperro and then up and out of them.
The second ferry crossing was on the passenger ferry from Fowey to Polruan, another lovely crossing but a huge hill to go up after with no warm up first- I was determined not to walk today and I didn't.
Got to Looe at 6pm and stayed at a good B&B called Schooner Point.
Day 2: Looe to Salcombe 60 miles
A walk around Looe before breakfast. What a car park on the river bank - the biggest I've seen for a long time-with beautiful views.
Another day of huge ups and downs. The trouble is the downs take a minute the ups take ten. Once over the bridge in Looe you are faced straight away with a long drag as soon as you get onto the B3253 and the minor lanes. From then on it is a series of climbs out of lovely places like Cawsand and Kingsand all the way to Cremyll where luckily for me the foot ferry was about to leave. At the slipway on the other side was a beautiful swan's nest that the council had put a protective fence around and also here was an excellent cafe, full of soldiers from the nearby barracks.
Through Plymouth city centre- not nice- and out to Plymstock, where I got lost.Then I took the advice of local who told me I should cycle down to Wembury beach where I arrived to find I was in a dead end. Rather than cycle back up hill decided to push bike along coastal footpath to Newton Ferrers which was o.k. apart from kissing gates which meant I kept having to take panniers off to lift bike over.
Ferry crossing was again beautiful although in actual fact I could have cycled around creek more quickly. Ferry not running across River Avon so now it was cycle into Salcombe and then to find the Youth Hostel is well out of town up and down some serious climbs. Lovely hostel that is set in a National Trust garden.
Another day of huge ups and downs. The trouble is the downs take a minute the ups take ten. Once over the bridge in Looe you are faced straight away with a long drag as soon as you get onto the B3253 and the minor lanes. From then on it is a series of climbs out of lovely places like Cawsand and Kingsand all the way to Cremyll where luckily for me the foot ferry was about to leave. At the slipway on the other side was a beautiful swan's nest that the council had put a protective fence around and also here was an excellent cafe, full of soldiers from the nearby barracks.
Through Plymouth city centre- not nice- and out to Plymstock, where I got lost.Then I took the advice of local who told me I should cycle down to Wembury beach where I arrived to find I was in a dead end. Rather than cycle back up hill decided to push bike along coastal footpath to Newton Ferrers which was o.k. apart from kissing gates which meant I kept having to take panniers off to lift bike over.
Ferry crossing was again beautiful although in actual fact I could have cycled around creek more quickly. Ferry not running across River Avon so now it was cycle into Salcombe and then to find the Youth Hostel is well out of town up and down some serious climbs. Lovely hostel that is set in a National Trust garden.
Day 3: Salcombe to Sidmouth 61 miles
All the hills to the hostel in reverse now and then another ferry from Salcombe over to East Portlemouth and yes another long climb. Past Hallsands and Beesands down to Torcross and a stop at the tank memorial, there to remember servicemen killed during a disastrous military exercise in the 2nd World War. An actual flat road at the back of Slapton Beach but soon back to hills at other end. Up to Streete and down again, up to Stoke Fleming and down again- you get the picture- and eventually into Dartmouth for the ferry to Kingswear. What a lovely river the Dart is, today there was a superb tall ship in port. Lunch at the steam railway terminal and then more hills to Brixham.
Paignton to Torquay was a busy main road and it was really cold now and when I arrived at the Teign found the ferry was moored up and not running. This turned out to be very lucky. After Teignmouth it was Dawlish and its red cliffs before I arrived at Starcross to find the ferry loaded with CTC cyclists about to leave and this was the last sailing of the day. If I'd missed it there would been a long cycle up to Exeter to cross river. The CTC group were from the Wessex section and gave me a route map that was largely traffic free to Sidmouth.
After a shower found the Swan Inn where I had excellent food and beer and a chat with 2 teachers from Birmingham about giving up work early and doing things.
Paignton to Torquay was a busy main road and it was really cold now and when I arrived at the Teign found the ferry was moored up and not running. This turned out to be very lucky. After Teignmouth it was Dawlish and its red cliffs before I arrived at Starcross to find the ferry loaded with CTC cyclists about to leave and this was the last sailing of the day. If I'd missed it there would been a long cycle up to Exeter to cross river. The CTC group were from the Wessex section and gave me a route map that was largely traffic free to Sidmouth.
After a shower found the Swan Inn where I had excellent food and beer and a chat with 2 teachers from Birmingham about giving up work early and doing things.
Day 4: Sidmouth to West Bay 30miles
The first 3 days had really taken it out of my legs and so had a shorter day today-didn't plan it but as the day went on knew I had to take it easy. Eventhough I was well aware of the terrain I had underestimated the non stop ups and downs and even as I set out from Sidmouth heading for the donkey sanctuary the first hill was enormous and I'm afraid that towards the top I had to rest-my excuse was that there good photos to be taken! While taking photos Mary King came past exercising her horses by using the hill to strengthen their legs.
Later I was to stay in an expensive and not great B&B and for a second I was regretting taking this on. However my first stop of the day was lovely.
Later I was to stay in an expensive and not great B&B and for a second I was regretting taking this on. However my first stop of the day was lovely.
I am a great animal lover and to walk amongst these beautiful, many previously mistreated, animals was a wonderful experience and it was because I stayed so long that I had a short ride today but then isn't this what cycle touring is all about and the reason why I don't like totally preplanned routes. It amazes me how trusting these animals still are when they have often been abused by humans. If this was near my home would love to work here.
After this long stop another series of long climbs came thick and fast as I cycled through Branscombe. Beer and Seaton. The first of these was the site of Napoli grounding and looting last year, today it looked fully recovered and sleepy. By the time I was on my down the hill into Lyme Regis it was freezing again but the hill out is enormous and soon warms you up. The next few miles was arguably the worst of the trip as I ended up on the A35. This road is lethal and no cyclist should ever go on it. The road is narrow, hilly and the traffic non stop- cars and lorries nearly brush you as they pass and there have apparently been many fatal accidents. Everyone wants a new road around Chideock but there has been no agreement over a route. Don't go on it-follow Sustrans Route 2 which goes inland.
Into Bridport where the Tourist Office couldn't find accomodation for me so I cycled down to West Bay and found one for myself but wish I hadn't. What I should have done was gone on to the hostel at Litton Cheney but I forgot it was there. The place I stayed in was expensive and noisy and the evening meal I had was very ordinary but very much like Basil Fawlty's gourmet night.
The owners were trying to create an eating experience in the village and as I sat in the bar my host told me across the other drinkers,
"Peter, tonight your waitress will be Susan."
Another customer asked, "What will my waitress be called?"
"Susan as well." came the reply.
"How many waitresses are there?" he asked.
"Only Susan."
A few minutes later I was told my table was ready and the host accompanied me in and stood chatting. After a short while- and remember I'm the only diner in the room- Susan came in and over the top of my head said "The chef wants to know if Peter is seated." On being told that I was she went to get the first course which she placed in front of me and left.
"It's her first night," the owner explained. "I think she's doing very well."
Personally I thought it was a bit early to draw this conclusion as her sole task so far had been to carry a plate 5yards. The evening continued in this vein and I sat there thinking will I be able to cope with this for 3 months, I should have fish and chips and perhaps I should have carried a tent but little did I realise that tomorrow would be the start of much better times.
After this long stop another series of long climbs came thick and fast as I cycled through Branscombe. Beer and Seaton. The first of these was the site of Napoli grounding and looting last year, today it looked fully recovered and sleepy. By the time I was on my down the hill into Lyme Regis it was freezing again but the hill out is enormous and soon warms you up. The next few miles was arguably the worst of the trip as I ended up on the A35. This road is lethal and no cyclist should ever go on it. The road is narrow, hilly and the traffic non stop- cars and lorries nearly brush you as they pass and there have apparently been many fatal accidents. Everyone wants a new road around Chideock but there has been no agreement over a route. Don't go on it-follow Sustrans Route 2 which goes inland.
Into Bridport where the Tourist Office couldn't find accomodation for me so I cycled down to West Bay and found one for myself but wish I hadn't. What I should have done was gone on to the hostel at Litton Cheney but I forgot it was there. The place I stayed in was expensive and noisy and the evening meal I had was very ordinary but very much like Basil Fawlty's gourmet night.
The owners were trying to create an eating experience in the village and as I sat in the bar my host told me across the other drinkers,
"Peter, tonight your waitress will be Susan."
Another customer asked, "What will my waitress be called?"
"Susan as well." came the reply.
"How many waitresses are there?" he asked.
"Only Susan."
A few minutes later I was told my table was ready and the host accompanied me in and stood chatting. After a short while- and remember I'm the only diner in the room- Susan came in and over the top of my head said "The chef wants to know if Peter is seated." On being told that I was she went to get the first course which she placed in front of me and left.
"It's her first night," the owner explained. "I think she's doing very well."
Personally I thought it was a bit early to draw this conclusion as her sole task so far had been to carry a plate 5yards. The evening continued in this vein and I sat there thinking will I be able to cope with this for 3 months, I should have fish and chips and perhaps I should have carried a tent but little did I realise that tomorrow would be the start of much better times.
Day 5: West Bay to Swanage 57miles
Climbed out of West Bay on coast road and then joined B 3157 to Abbotsbury still a bit depressed but my luck was changing because it was pouring down behind me but it never caught me up. I stopped in Abbotsbury there was no phone signal and so I went on and came to Portesham where a sign outside the new village hall said breakfasts. This is a regular event apparently and I went in and met some lovely people and was interviewed by a local reporter. Tea and cake was only a pound and suddenly everthing seemed better. As I set off again little did I realise that the hills were behind me and from now on it was comparatively flat for a thousand miles.
Next stop was Weymouth where Alison and I started our find a webcam game. When I arrived in a town Alison would go on the computer and see if there were webcams. At Weymouth there was one on the seafront so I stood underneath it and waved-passers by thought I was a nutter!
Next came a visit to Lulworth Cove, a place I'd seen on T.V. so often but never been to. Full of school field trips a wedding party and ice cream shops on every corner. This was April so hate to think what it's like in August.
After Lulworth came to signs telling me that the firing ranges on the Purbeck Hills were open to the public so was able to cycle closer to the coast although did find a few more big climbs here but luckily met a triathlete out training and he guided me all the way to Corfe. Then it was straight down the A351 to Swanage and good accomodation at Little Gem and excellent food and real ale at The Black Swan.
Later Alison found a webcam outside a fish and chip shop so I joined the queue and we spoke to each other as she watched me eating a bag of chips, I often ate twice in an evening but it is difficult talking on the phone and eating chips at the same time.
Next came a visit to Lulworth Cove, a place I'd seen on T.V. so often but never been to. Full of school field trips a wedding party and ice cream shops on every corner. This was April so hate to think what it's like in August.
After Lulworth came to signs telling me that the firing ranges on the Purbeck Hills were open to the public so was able to cycle closer to the coast although did find a few more big climbs here but luckily met a triathlete out training and he guided me all the way to Corfe. Then it was straight down the A351 to Swanage and good accomodation at Little Gem and excellent food and real ale at The Black Swan.
Later Alison found a webcam outside a fish and chip shop so I joined the queue and we spoke to each other as she watched me eating a bag of chips, I often ate twice in an evening but it is difficult talking on the phone and eating chips at the same time.
Day 6: Swanage to Isle of Wight 52 miles
Sunday morning and the Isle of Purbeck was busy with joggers ,cyclists and walkers. Flat ride to the sandbanks fery which was one of my favourites as it was so full of life. Being Sunday it was full of people out having a good time and many cyclists use it as part of a circular ride out from Christchurch, pool and Bournemouth. I didn't know that chain ferries came that big and as it crossed you could see people enjoying watersports of one kind or another in every direction. I liked Swanage and the whole area and will certainly go back again to explore.
After the crossing I cycled along the seafront at Bournemouth but as I approached Christchurch wasn't concentrating and missed the turning to the ferry at Hengistbury Head which meant I ended up cycling miles around Christchurch to get to Mudeford Quay when I could have had a relaxing trip bagging another ferry but I got a photo of the ferry it's just that I wasn't on it. Mudeford was another place packed with people engaged in all sorts of activities and here I was given a donation for the Cornwall Air Ambulance by a member of the Christchurch Rotary club who was there stewarding a sponsored walk, so thankyou to him.
On next to Milford on Sea and Keyhaven before getting onto the main road into Lymington. Just in time for the ferry again to Yarmouth. I get quite excited on all these boats watching all the other water traffic go by. I'd decided to go onto the Isle of Wight, not only because I could use 3 more ferries but because I thought doing this was preferable to riding through the urban area around Southampton. From Yarmouth a short ride up and dpwn a few hills took me to the hostel at Totland where I was one of only three staying. The other two were a couple in their 70s walking the coast of the island. He did all the planning, she made suggestions, he totally ignored her so she lay on the settee letting him get on with it. Everthing was well ordered, she paid for food he paid for accomodation. In the morning I watched them walk off in the rain with umbrellas. You meet such interesting people but then think you'll probably never see them again. Lovely hostel and they are even better when you get a huge room to yourself.
On next to Milford on Sea and Keyhaven before getting onto the main road into Lymington. Just in time for the ferry again to Yarmouth. I get quite excited on all these boats watching all the other water traffic go by. I'd decided to go onto the Isle of Wight, not only because I could use 3 more ferries but because I thought doing this was preferable to riding through the urban area around Southampton. From Yarmouth a short ride up and dpwn a few hills took me to the hostel at Totland where I was one of only three staying. The other two were a couple in their 70s walking the coast of the island. He did all the planning, she made suggestions, he totally ignored her so she lay on the settee letting him get on with it. Everthing was well ordered, she paid for food he paid for accomodation. In the morning I watched them walk off in the rain with umbrellas. You meet such interesting people but then think you'll probably never see them again. Lovely hostel and they are even better when you get a huge room to yourself.
Day 7: Isle of Wight to Littlehampton 57 miles
Coming into Portsmouth Harbour
The next morning it was pouring down as I left the hostel and by the time I'd got back to Yarmouth it was coming down so hard you could hardly see. My first job was to get to Cowes to use the little chain ferry which was the shortest ferry crossing, only lasting about 2 minutes, but it was free. Then it was on to Fishbourne to catch the Portsmouth ferry and at least get out of the rain for an hour.
As I pushed the bike off the ferry I found that I had a puncture-the first one in three years of long distance cycling. As I was in a town decided to get it mended in a bike shop to save using one of my spare tubes. After much asking found a small backstreet repair shop owned by retired bikeshop owner who just did a bit of part time work. He quickly put in new tube and pointed me in the direction of a good cafe round the corner but unfortunately when I came out the tyre was flat again. Back at the shop he found the tiniest sliver if Isle of Wight flint embedded in the tyre that he must have missed the first time and put another tube in for which he didn't charge me.
By now I had lost an hour or more and so didn't go right out to the end of Selsey Bill but pressed on in the rain through Chichester and Bognor to Littlehampton.
By now I had lost an hour or more and so didn't go right out to the end of Selsey Bill but pressed on in the rain through Chichester and Bognor to Littlehampton.
Littlehampton hostel is right on the harbourside and very well equiped and it is where I met Sui. Sui was a young Chinese man with limited English, although a fair bit better than my Chinese. "Call me Mike", he said. When I went into the room I was surprised to find him wearing several layers of clothes plus a woolly hat and all the radiators on full. He explained that he was travelling around Europe before he died of cancer and loved Britain because it was green and hated Spain because it was brown. When the heating went off later he got a fan heater from the warden and slept fully clothed, hat still on and the fan heater running full blast pointing at his bed. Needless to say the room was like a sauna but I couldn't really say anything as apparently it was his cancer treatments that meant he needed constant heat.
I heard him get up next morning and thought he was just going to the loo but I never saw him again but he did leave me this note.
Peter
Love to meet you
I have a trip earlier
And I say blessing
to U this dream
ride around UK.
Thanks for you chat.
Can you give the
key to reception
too.
Mike Siu
I wonder where he is now?
I heard him get up next morning and thought he was just going to the loo but I never saw him again but he did leave me this note.
Peter
Love to meet you
I have a trip earlier
And I say blessing
to U this dream
ride around UK.
Thanks for you chat.
Can you give the
key to reception
too.
Mike Siu
I wonder where he is now?
Day 8: Littlehampton to Rye 79 miles
First part of day was largely along seafronts of Worthing, Lancing,Shoreham, Hove and Brighton. At Shoreham I ended up on the wrong side of the docks and had to backtrack quite a long way. Flat cycling and plenty of sightseeing, all places I'd never seen before. Brighton Marina was like a separate town but so ugly and bleak in my opinion, just plain grey concrete, seems really out of place along beautuful coastline. Past Roedean College and down to Newhaven where a cycle path takes you along the River Ouse to Seaford. This whole section was almost continuous seaside resorts with pebble beaches and promenades behind.
When you reach Westdean having had to use the mainroad you feel sure that there must be a cycle track along the coast to Beachy Head but on talking to the friendly owner of the cycle hire shop there is only a route down the bank of the Cuckmere River and back again. The only way to Beachy is up the long hill in the traffic, surely this needs to be rectified.
I thought East Dean was a lovely place with a village green, inviting pub (Tiger Inn), cricket pitch and a good cafe called The Hikers Rest. From here it's peaceful minor roads to Birling Gap and then a long climb up to the headland. Stopped for lots of photos at Birling Gap and Beachy Head before the long descent to Eastbourne where the seafront was full of HIkers on there way back to Hotels and joggers out for a bit of exercise.
Pevensey, Bexhill and into Hastings where all what must have been upmarket hotels and dwellings seem now to be bedsits with pealing paintwork and curtains billowing. I'd read that Hastings had suffered a decline in it's fortunes and this certainly seemed confirmed by what I saw. The old town at the eastern end was very nice but didn't see any B&Bs or I might have stopped here. A very long drag out of Hastings but a lovely minor road to Fairlight,Cliff End and Winchelsea, plenty of caravan sights behind the sea defence walls but not one guesthouse in sight.
Eventually arrived at Rye quite late-had done too much sightseeing and chatting during the day- and went straight up to the old part of town where I was offered a bargain B&B for £80! I don't think I was the kind of customer they were trying to attract. Eventually found Aviemore G.H. for £35- a quick shower and up the steps back into the old town for a pint of Harveys Best and a very nice Steak and Ale pie. Listened to a local character trying to entertain the visitors with some local stories but no one could understand him partly because he was drunk and partly because he had no teeth.
When you reach Westdean having had to use the mainroad you feel sure that there must be a cycle track along the coast to Beachy Head but on talking to the friendly owner of the cycle hire shop there is only a route down the bank of the Cuckmere River and back again. The only way to Beachy is up the long hill in the traffic, surely this needs to be rectified.
I thought East Dean was a lovely place with a village green, inviting pub (Tiger Inn), cricket pitch and a good cafe called The Hikers Rest. From here it's peaceful minor roads to Birling Gap and then a long climb up to the headland. Stopped for lots of photos at Birling Gap and Beachy Head before the long descent to Eastbourne where the seafront was full of HIkers on there way back to Hotels and joggers out for a bit of exercise.
Pevensey, Bexhill and into Hastings where all what must have been upmarket hotels and dwellings seem now to be bedsits with pealing paintwork and curtains billowing. I'd read that Hastings had suffered a decline in it's fortunes and this certainly seemed confirmed by what I saw. The old town at the eastern end was very nice but didn't see any B&Bs or I might have stopped here. A very long drag out of Hastings but a lovely minor road to Fairlight,Cliff End and Winchelsea, plenty of caravan sights behind the sea defence walls but not one guesthouse in sight.
Eventually arrived at Rye quite late-had done too much sightseeing and chatting during the day- and went straight up to the old part of town where I was offered a bargain B&B for £80! I don't think I was the kind of customer they were trying to attract. Eventually found Aviemore G.H. for £35- a quick shower and up the steps back into the old town for a pint of Harveys Best and a very nice Steak and Ale pie. Listened to a local character trying to entertain the visitors with some local stories but no one could understand him partly because he was drunk and partly because he had no teeth.
Day 9: Hythe to Margate 69 miles
Dungeness
A very good breakfast with a German couple who couldn't get their heads around youth hostels and how people as old as me could stay in them. Then it was a totally flat ride across Walland Marshes to Lydd and out to Dungeness.
Dungeness has a kind of spooky feel to it. The area is best described as a moonscape with pebbles and there are dozens of wooden chalets that leave you wondering who lives in them. Several seemed to belong to alternative lifestyle and witchcraft followers. One was called the fifth quarter and welcomed visitors but I chickened out.
There are two lighthouses and of course the nucleur powerstation. Apparently there are two lighthouses because when they built the powerstation it obscured the light and a new one had to be built. In the 1600s the first light was a coal fire and the man running it was supposed to be paid 1d/ton by passing ships but apparently he had difficulty collecting what was due, surprise surprise. There have been quite a few different lights as apparently the sea kept receeding. It's said that in one storm alone over 1000 sailors died.
My other hobby is sea fishing and so I went down onto the beach to talk to an old chap fishing. He spent most days there from breakfast until teatime and caught a few cod each year-seemed very happy with his life. Let me borrow his rod for a photo.
Dungeness has a kind of spooky feel to it. The area is best described as a moonscape with pebbles and there are dozens of wooden chalets that leave you wondering who lives in them. Several seemed to belong to alternative lifestyle and witchcraft followers. One was called the fifth quarter and welcomed visitors but I chickened out.
There are two lighthouses and of course the nucleur powerstation. Apparently there are two lighthouses because when they built the powerstation it obscured the light and a new one had to be built. In the 1600s the first light was a coal fire and the man running it was supposed to be paid 1d/ton by passing ships but apparently he had difficulty collecting what was due, surprise surprise. There have been quite a few different lights as apparently the sea kept receeding. It's said that in one storm alone over 1000 sailors died.
My other hobby is sea fishing and so I went down onto the beach to talk to an old chap fishing. He spent most days there from breakfast until teatime and caught a few cod each year-seemed very happy with his life. Let me borrow his rod for a photo.
From here you can cycle along just above the shore to Littlestone on Sea. On your left there is a continuous line of mostly bungalows looking out to sea, very pleasent today but I bet it's cold here in an easterly in February. A lot of money is and has been spent here to protect Romney Marshes from flooding. You were able to cycle along the top of the defences for miles, right into Hythe. Went into the centre of Hythe and thought it was a really lovely town, with more a market town appearence than tourist destination. Found a lovely fruit and veg shop with all the produce beautifully displayed and lots of different apple varieties. Just done a search and somebody has posted photos on Flickr and called the shop the best greengrocers he's ever seen. Shop called S.A. Crunden and sons. If you know them pass on the good news.
Into Folkestone next, wasn't quite sure what to expect but I liked the place except for the hill out on the B2011. As I cycled towards Dover I came unexpectedly to the Battle of Britain memorial site at Capel le Ferne. What a moving, interesting and peaceful place. Built here because much of the battle happened overhead. If you are passing nearby please pay a visit. My trip was made by surprise finds like this.
Into Folkestone next, wasn't quite sure what to expect but I liked the place except for the hill out on the B2011. As I cycled towards Dover I came unexpectedly to the Battle of Britain memorial site at Capel le Ferne. What a moving, interesting and peaceful place. Built here because much of the battle happened overhead. If you are passing nearby please pay a visit. My trip was made by surprise finds like this.
Down into Dover and then a long climb up to the castle but was soon rewarded with lovely views over the busy harbour with a constant stream of ships in and out. You could hear the tannoy system clearly from the top of the cliffs. Next from St Margarets at Cliffe I was directed onto a grass cyle path right along the edge of the cliffs to Kingsdown and then on the seafront right into Deal.
Another excellent cycle route took me across the famous golf links to Sandwich and then another, now signed as the Viking Coastal Route took me through Broadstairs and North Foreland and finally right along the seafront into Margate. Lots of signs told me I was cycling the Sustrans Viking Coastal Route.
A liitle like Hastings Margate is showing a fair bit of wear and tear. The youth hostel was right on the seafront and was a run down hotel being managed by a foreign family who lived in a chalet out the back. I stayed in ones with better facilities but they were very welcoming and I enjoyed staying here. Walked west along the seafront and found a pub called The Nottingham Castle where I had a huge plate of liver and bacon.
Another excellent cycle route took me across the famous golf links to Sandwich and then another, now signed as the Viking Coastal Route took me through Broadstairs and North Foreland and finally right along the seafront into Margate. Lots of signs told me I was cycling the Sustrans Viking Coastal Route.
A liitle like Hastings Margate is showing a fair bit of wear and tear. The youth hostel was right on the seafront and was a run down hotel being managed by a foreign family who lived in a chalet out the back. I stayed in ones with better facilities but they were very welcoming and I enjoyed staying here. Walked west along the seafront and found a pub called The Nottingham Castle where I had a huge plate of liver and bacon.
Day 10: Margate to Chatham 55miles
Today I nearly suffered death or serious injury-well that's a slight exaggeration but I'll tell you about it in a minute.
£3 for a buffet breakfast but ham and cheese not really my thing so I had cornflakes followed by more, of the honey nut variety and then weetabix and lots of toast and jam. Never did get to see the Swiss students who were staying at the hostel as they had come in after I'd gone to bed and hadn't stirred when I left.
I cycled west along the seafront heading roughly for London and as I came around the corner there was Margate golf course in front of me. There was agroup of golfers on the tee next to the road with absolutely nothing between them and me. That's dangerous I thought as I cycled past. The road was slightly downhill at this point and I was going quite fast but not fast enough. I had a premonition that something was about to happen. Suddenly I was overtaken by a golf ball that bounced next to me on the tarmac and then after several more bounces disappeared into the sandunes to my left.This is yet another reason why all cyclists should wear helmets and why I was nervous when cycling through and past golfcourses for the rest of the trip.
Today most of the cycling was traffic free until near Chatham. The first part was on the sea defences to Herne Bay and then Whitstable and after that on a trail that took me through fields,along dykes and past a travellers camp that was such a mess. Broken glass and rubbish everywhere and really very intimidating. How can people live in such a state and no wonder people get upset at the prospect of sites being set up in their neighbourhood. Super bikeshop in Whitstable that gave my bike a mini service totally free of charge. www.herbertscycles.co.uk Keith has worked there for 15 years and owned it for 8.
The hostel at Capstone is very new with good facilities and tonight had two people staying including me. The lady was booking in as I arrived. She was quite a large lady and reminded me of the hotel inspectors you see on television. "I'll be leaving the hostel at 5a.m. But I'll be back for breakfast." Mysterious! One of my pet hates are people in hostels who let doors bang and she was one of these-at 5a.m!-but I'll rant more about that when I reach Ullapool.
The young receptionist was quite nervous as he was in his first week. He seemed to be in charge of everything. He booked us in, was later walking around with a mop and bucket, fixed the heater in the drying room and then cooked the evening meal. When I asked what was on the menu he told me it was lamb tagine.
"What's lamb tagine?" I asked.
"It's a Morroccan dish." he replied. "But I'm not sure what meat is in it."
"Could it be lamb?"
"Possibly, But I'll have to check."
Anyway the food was very good and he was a nice lad.
Over the Thames tomorrow; the first of the sections I'd mentally divided Britain into completed.
£3 for a buffet breakfast but ham and cheese not really my thing so I had cornflakes followed by more, of the honey nut variety and then weetabix and lots of toast and jam. Never did get to see the Swiss students who were staying at the hostel as they had come in after I'd gone to bed and hadn't stirred when I left.
I cycled west along the seafront heading roughly for London and as I came around the corner there was Margate golf course in front of me. There was agroup of golfers on the tee next to the road with absolutely nothing between them and me. That's dangerous I thought as I cycled past. The road was slightly downhill at this point and I was going quite fast but not fast enough. I had a premonition that something was about to happen. Suddenly I was overtaken by a golf ball that bounced next to me on the tarmac and then after several more bounces disappeared into the sandunes to my left.This is yet another reason why all cyclists should wear helmets and why I was nervous when cycling through and past golfcourses for the rest of the trip.
Today most of the cycling was traffic free until near Chatham. The first part was on the sea defences to Herne Bay and then Whitstable and after that on a trail that took me through fields,along dykes and past a travellers camp that was such a mess. Broken glass and rubbish everywhere and really very intimidating. How can people live in such a state and no wonder people get upset at the prospect of sites being set up in their neighbourhood. Super bikeshop in Whitstable that gave my bike a mini service totally free of charge. www.herbertscycles.co.uk Keith has worked there for 15 years and owned it for 8.
The hostel at Capstone is very new with good facilities and tonight had two people staying including me. The lady was booking in as I arrived. She was quite a large lady and reminded me of the hotel inspectors you see on television. "I'll be leaving the hostel at 5a.m. But I'll be back for breakfast." Mysterious! One of my pet hates are people in hostels who let doors bang and she was one of these-at 5a.m!-but I'll rant more about that when I reach Ullapool.
The young receptionist was quite nervous as he was in his first week. He seemed to be in charge of everything. He booked us in, was later walking around with a mop and bucket, fixed the heater in the drying room and then cooked the evening meal. When I asked what was on the menu he told me it was lamb tagine.
"What's lamb tagine?" I asked.
"It's a Morroccan dish." he replied. "But I'm not sure what meat is in it."
"Could it be lamb?"
"Possibly, But I'll have to check."
Anyway the food was very good and he was a nice lad.
Over the Thames tomorrow; the first of the sections I'd mentally divided Britain into completed.