Day 36 Durness to Achmelvich Youth Hostel 62 miles
Awake at 5.45 a.m. and over to the kitchen to make a cup of tea -no rules here about using kitchen early-then back to bed for an hour. When I next went over Kasje Graser was already frying her Danish bacon. She is a retired maths teacher from Slovenia and has been hostelling in Scotland for 40 years. For the last few years she has spent 3 weeks at Durness and 2 weeks at JOG.
She flies into Heathrow then goes into London to buy a suitcase full of books and a load of Danish bacon. She then spends 5 weeks reading by finding quiet spots outdoors. At the end of her trip she sends a box home full of all the books she's read and then makes another trip to London to buy more books and bacon to take home. She has a fry up every morning and last night ate a whole chicken. What a lovely lady Kasje is but has been very ill recently and was not sure if she would be back next year.
This is a lovely, homely hostel but it was time to move on and so it was off down the A838. This is a beautiful road especially today as the sun was trying to come out and the wind behind me. Not long before I reached the ferry crossing point for Cape Wrath-the one I couldn't use yesterday but took a photo anyway. The large white building used to be a hotel but is closed at the moment.
The scenery on either side of the road is wild and rugged and the road twists around the cloud covered hills ahead.
She flies into Heathrow then goes into London to buy a suitcase full of books and a load of Danish bacon. She then spends 5 weeks reading by finding quiet spots outdoors. At the end of her trip she sends a box home full of all the books she's read and then makes another trip to London to buy more books and bacon to take home. She has a fry up every morning and last night ate a whole chicken. What a lovely lady Kasje is but has been very ill recently and was not sure if she would be back next year.
This is a lovely, homely hostel but it was time to move on and so it was off down the A838. This is a beautiful road especially today as the sun was trying to come out and the wind behind me. Not long before I reached the ferry crossing point for Cape Wrath-the one I couldn't use yesterday but took a photo anyway. The large white building used to be a hotel but is closed at the moment.
The scenery on either side of the road is wild and rugged and the road twists around the cloud covered hills ahead.
Went through Rhiconich and Laxford hoping to find a coffee stop but the nearest I got was a banana outside a public toilet at the Kinlochbervie turn off. I didn't go out the Kinlochbervie deadend as I wasn't sure what was ahead of me today.
In Scourie I stopped at the shop, which served takeaway coffee and sat at a picnic table outside. While I was sitting here I was joined by Tom who only a few days earlier had been rowing across the Indian Ocean. His rowing partner had had a serious accident in rough weather and had to airlifted off by the Australian navy. They had been doing well in the race but that was the end of it. Tom was now spending four days touring Scotland on his motorbike to try and get over the disappointment. Later in the year he was planning to row the Atlantic!
In Scourie I stopped at the shop, which served takeaway coffee and sat at a picnic table outside. While I was sitting here I was joined by Tom who only a few days earlier had been rowing across the Indian Ocean. His rowing partner had had a serious accident in rough weather and had to airlifted off by the Australian navy. They had been doing well in the race but that was the end of it. Tom was now spending four days touring Scotland on his motorbike to try and get over the disappointment. Later in the year he was planning to row the Atlantic!
As I approached Kylestrome the views were absolutely stunning. You look from high up down over the bridge which is beautiful but seems completely out of place in its wild surroundings.I had been to this part of Scotland fishing as a teenager in the late 1960s and today a mystery was solved. For years I had a recollection of a ferry going across a raging tide race but could never work out where it was but today I suddenly realised that it was here, before the bridge was built. You can still see where it used to leave from. I think the ferry was perfectly able to cope as it's hardly a busy road and there really is something exciting about getting on a ferry. Mind you this is a spectacular bridge.
Across the bridge and a lovely surprise, just around the corner towards Unapool a cafe appeared on my left. It's also a doll museum no good for us men but you girlie cyclists will enjoy it! The view from the cafe window across the loch is stunning and the food was good. They sold postcards and so it was an unexpected opportunity to send a couple off. B&B is also available at a reasonable rate. www.maryck.co.uk Well worth a stop as they also have other "Memories of Childhood" exhibits.
My plan today had been to continue down the main road then turn right on to the A837 to Lochinver. After a night at Achmelvich I was going to cycle the hills of Assynt without my panniers and then spend a second night at the hostel. Just after the cafe I reached the turn on to the B869 to Drumbeg. I was feeling fresh and full of energy and so decided, at the last minute, to tackle the hills luggage and all. This is a fantastic but certainly challenging route. The road is like a switchback with a new superb view around every corner. I made it up every hill, to cheers from one car driver.
Drumbeg has an award winning stores and I stopped here for an ice cream and to stock up for the evening. Offered to buy some beer if he would deliver it. From the shop the brilliant route continued and this time with some superb beaches. Clashnessie looked inviting with a lovely white cottage at the waters edge.
My plan today had been to continue down the main road then turn right on to the A837 to Lochinver. After a night at Achmelvich I was going to cycle the hills of Assynt without my panniers and then spend a second night at the hostel. Just after the cafe I reached the turn on to the B869 to Drumbeg. I was feeling fresh and full of energy and so decided, at the last minute, to tackle the hills luggage and all. This is a fantastic but certainly challenging route. The road is like a switchback with a new superb view around every corner. I made it up every hill, to cheers from one car driver.
Drumbeg has an award winning stores and I stopped here for an ice cream and to stock up for the evening. Offered to buy some beer if he would deliver it. From the shop the brilliant route continued and this time with some superb beaches. Clashnessie looked inviting with a lovely white cottage at the waters edge.
From Clashnessie the road darts inland and up and down to Stoer. More hills and breathtaking views and then a right turn out to Achmelvich. This little road is amazing with views over Suilven and Stac Pollaidh-the hills many stay here to climb. The setting for this hostel is as good as any which makes up for the cramped sleeping rooms and limited showers-not so long ago there weren't any at all. The young couple, Caroline and Dave, who run it are very helpful and friendly. Dave ran some people into Lochinver to watch a play but after all the hills I was a bit tired.
Took a stroll down to the caravan park by the beach and couldn't resist the fish and chips being fried.The evening was very sociable with lots of chatter and board games. After my chips I still had room for the Lasagne I'd bought at Drumbeg. There is a seperate little block at the hostel with a family and double room.
Took a stroll down to the caravan park by the beach and couldn't resist the fish and chips being fried.The evening was very sociable with lots of chatter and board games. After my chips I still had room for the Lasagne I'd bought at Drumbeg. There is a seperate little block at the hostel with a family and double room.
Day 37: Achmelvich to Ullapool 50 miles
What a fantastic day's cycling this was going to be. It was raining when I set off but by lunchtime the sun was out. A very steep hill out of Achmelvich and then a lovely up and down route into Lochinver. Past the world famous pie shop- if approaching from the south it is recommended you stop for a pie to take to the hostel.
Lochinver is a sheltered fishing village situated at the back of Loch Inver-no surprise there then. It is still a busy fishing port and looking inland you have the most wonderful view of Suilven. The war memorial is a majestic structure and overall this is a lovely small town.
As you leave the town you go past the village school. The playground goes right down to a small loch and I couldn't help feeling that playground duty must be a very midgey affair. This next section to Inverkirkaig was super cycling, plenty of hills but then a surprise cafe and bookshop. The waitress was covering and stamping books for local libraries and so this must be how they supplement their income in this isolated spot. It is htought to be the most isolated bookshop in mainland Britain. As soon as she had served me she went back to it. The only downside of this cafe is that it is at the top of a steep driveway. www.scotbooks.freeweb.com
The village itself has a wonderful setting with a pebble beach at the back of a sheltered loch.
The next 8 miles were up and down and round and round with the most stunning scenery on both sides of the road.The inland mountains are spectacular because they are seperate from each other and rise up from flat land around them. I kept taking photos but every corner provided even better views, I was doing about 3 miles an hour because of all the stops.
Lochinver is a sheltered fishing village situated at the back of Loch Inver-no surprise there then. It is still a busy fishing port and looking inland you have the most wonderful view of Suilven. The war memorial is a majestic structure and overall this is a lovely small town.
As you leave the town you go past the village school. The playground goes right down to a small loch and I couldn't help feeling that playground duty must be a very midgey affair. This next section to Inverkirkaig was super cycling, plenty of hills but then a surprise cafe and bookshop. The waitress was covering and stamping books for local libraries and so this must be how they supplement their income in this isolated spot. It is htought to be the most isolated bookshop in mainland Britain. As soon as she had served me she went back to it. The only downside of this cafe is that it is at the top of a steep driveway. www.scotbooks.freeweb.com
The village itself has a wonderful setting with a pebble beach at the back of a sheltered loch.
The next 8 miles were up and down and round and round with the most stunning scenery on both sides of the road.The inland mountains are spectacular because they are seperate from each other and rise up from flat land around them. I kept taking photos but every corner provided even better views, I was doing about 3 miles an hour because of all the stops.
I reached the junction for the road to Altandhu and here met a couple from New Zealand who had also stayed at Achmelvich last night. They were spending 4 months travelling Europe-Italy was next but today they were heading for Ullapool to catch the ferry to Lewis. As I was chatting and having a photo taken with Highland cattle my bike decided to slide off the post it was leaning on and disappered down into a ditch about 8 foot deep. I feared the worst but the only damage was a broken biro in my saddle bag. Good old Mercian. Feeling very relieved I turned right and headed for Altandhu.
Beautiful beach on my right as the road headed up over the moorland. As I neared the summit I had a premonition that something special was about to happen. The road came to a rock cutting and as I cycled through a breathtaking vista opened up looking down over the Summer Isles. I sat on a bench having lunch and every car that came through that gap came to a halt and passengers jumped out to take photos. I think it was the most memorable single moment on the trip. If you come this way approach from the north it is brilliant and my photos do not do it justice.
I completed the circuit, after stopping for an ice cream in Polbain and then retraced my route before turning right and cycling alongside Loch Lurgainn and past Stac Pollaidh, again the views were brilliant. There are always lots of cars parked along these roads presumably belonging to mountain baggers. Eventually I joined the A835 for the hilly ride into Ullapool and I must admit my legs were tired as today had been a very hilly ride. The first view of Ullapool was very welcome and a long downhill into the town.
The hostel is right on the harbourside with views from every window and the facilities are excellent but as I was to find later it was the noisiest hostel since Inverness.
The hostel is right on the harbourside with views from every window and the facilities are excellent but as I was to find later it was the noisiest hostel since Inverness.
Day 38 Ullapool to Gairloch 59 miles
Today was a bit of an adventure-one of those days that you enjoy after it is over and you're thinking back.
Not a lot of sleep as the hostel was full and several of the occupants seemed to sleepwalk around the building slamming the doors all night. Now if I have to get up in the middle of the night I creep around as quietly as possible and always close the door very carefully. In Ullapool every door in the hostel is on one of those springs that close slowly and then slam at the last minute. Why do people rush down the corridor leaving every door slam behind them. It drives me mad and talking to a female Swiss motorbiker at breakfast she agreed. She looked worse than I felt through lack of sleep.
The other noise problem is that from the early hours of the morning lorries arrive to catch the first ferry and they park right outside the dormatory windows. So a room with a view quickly lost it's appeal. Ullapool hostel on the face of it is good but for the number of people it takes the toilet and shower facilities are not adequate and there are to many bunks in each room. Obviously it's a money spinner for YHA because of the ferry terminal but don't expect a good nights sleep.
At breakfast had a bit of a surprise when the lady on the next table turned out to live near me and goes cycling in a group with my wife. I'd even gone to a group Christmas meal with her and others last year.
The most entertaining people in the hostel were a group of walkers who were mostly women but were being guided by a man. At 6 a.m. he was trying to make a huge saucepan of chicken stew. He filled a saucepan to the brim with water and boiled it. He obviously hadn't heard of Archimedes because he then proceeded to tip all the meat and veg in and as you can imagine there was water everywhere. Meanwhile people in the room above had no chance of having a lie in as he and his group made enough noise to wake the dead.
I left Ullapool quite early and didn't bother to stock up with food as there were bound to shops on the way!
Not a lot of sleep as the hostel was full and several of the occupants seemed to sleepwalk around the building slamming the doors all night. Now if I have to get up in the middle of the night I creep around as quietly as possible and always close the door very carefully. In Ullapool every door in the hostel is on one of those springs that close slowly and then slam at the last minute. Why do people rush down the corridor leaving every door slam behind them. It drives me mad and talking to a female Swiss motorbiker at breakfast she agreed. She looked worse than I felt through lack of sleep.
The other noise problem is that from the early hours of the morning lorries arrive to catch the first ferry and they park right outside the dormatory windows. So a room with a view quickly lost it's appeal. Ullapool hostel on the face of it is good but for the number of people it takes the toilet and shower facilities are not adequate and there are to many bunks in each room. Obviously it's a money spinner for YHA because of the ferry terminal but don't expect a good nights sleep.
At breakfast had a bit of a surprise when the lady on the next table turned out to live near me and goes cycling in a group with my wife. I'd even gone to a group Christmas meal with her and others last year.
The most entertaining people in the hostel were a group of walkers who were mostly women but were being guided by a man. At 6 a.m. he was trying to make a huge saucepan of chicken stew. He filled a saucepan to the brim with water and boiled it. He obviously hadn't heard of Archimedes because he then proceeded to tip all the meat and veg in and as you can imagine there was water everywhere. Meanwhile people in the room above had no chance of having a lie in as he and his group made enough noise to wake the dead.
I left Ullapool quite early and didn't bother to stock up with food as there were bound to shops on the way!
A bit of a climb at first but then followed by 8 miles of easy cycling along Loch Broom. It was obviously too good to last as a mile long steep climb was needed to get to Braemore where I expected to find a cafe and shop but there was nothing there. Turned right onto the A832 waiting for a cafe to appear at any moment. The road climbed and it got colder and colder. During the heatwave of a few days ago I'd sent home a parcel of items I'd not used including my winter gloves and woolly hat.
This may be called an A road but I seemed to be the only one on it. The rain started and then it turned to hail and sleet, my fingers were numb and my face frozen. The scenery is wild and spectacular and I really would have enjoyed it from a warm cafe window. I stopped and put on extra layers but then was faced with the longest downhill of the trip. Normally welcome this downhill was a real problem. It was steep but my fingers were so numb I was having trouble using the brakes and of course the longer I descended the colder I got and not having any food made it worse. The views of An Teallach were stunning and part of it looks like a man made pyramid.
This may be called an A road but I seemed to be the only one on it. The rain started and then it turned to hail and sleet, my fingers were numb and my face frozen. The scenery is wild and spectacular and I really would have enjoyed it from a warm cafe window. I stopped and put on extra layers but then was faced with the longest downhill of the trip. Normally welcome this downhill was a real problem. It was steep but my fingers were so numb I was having trouble using the brakes and of course the longer I descended the colder I got and not having any food made it worse. The views of An Teallach were stunning and part of it looks like a man made pyramid.
As Little Loch Broom appears the road flattens out. The hotel and cafe at Dundonnel was closed but a mile or so later I was saved by Maggie's Tearoom at Camusnagaul where hot soup, tea and cake saved the day. Almost opposite the tearoom is Sail Mhor Hostel which is in the Independant Hostel Guide and it looked very good with beautiful views-worth considering if you are coming this way. From the cafe it was all uphill, past a waterfall until Gruinard Bay which was absolutely stunning. First of all through a wooded section with strange 200ft mounds/hills on either side of the road-had a kind of prehistoric feel. Would love to know more about the geology of the area. Once out of the woods you come across a superb beach that stetches for miles out to sea. Only two people walking along it. Finally one of those hills that appear in front of you that challenge you to get to the top- and I did. Life was good again.
Once up the hill it was along an open windy section to Laide. It was hailing again so went into shop and bought a rather large cake and then on to Altbea, where there was a cafe signposted but it was off the road up a steep hill so gave up on that one.
Altbea is situated on Loch Ewe which still has facilities for nuclear submarines. During the war the loch was used for arctic convoys to shelter and gather. As you cycle up the hill past Altbea you pass a NATO facility and can see jetties below you.
This is a hilly section then at last you drop down to Inverewe gardens, where all the visitors are walking around in midge nets. There is a large cafe where I stopped for a cup of tea and stocked up with those little sachets of jam, milk and butter for use in the hostel. Just past the gardens is a good village shop where I bought milk and half a chicken. Didn't really need to do this and carry it up the hills as in Gairloch there are even better shops and they have a good selection of food at the hostel.
The Gairloch Youth Hostel is in a superb position overlooking Loch Gairloch and is run by a young local warden. The place is very welcoming and well organised and when I was there had a good mixture of really friendly people.
Because I'd had little sleep for a few days and met some hard riding decided to spend 2 days here. The village has a famous coffee/bookshop so seemed like a good place for a day off. The Mountain Coffee Shop has a wacky bookshop attached and the most amazing selection of different types of scones. It is a bit expensive but I understand part of the price is a donation to maintain the enviroment. It is a lovely place to relax and well worth a stop even if you are just passing through. Gairloch is recommended as a rest day.
Altbea is situated on Loch Ewe which still has facilities for nuclear submarines. During the war the loch was used for arctic convoys to shelter and gather. As you cycle up the hill past Altbea you pass a NATO facility and can see jetties below you.
This is a hilly section then at last you drop down to Inverewe gardens, where all the visitors are walking around in midge nets. There is a large cafe where I stopped for a cup of tea and stocked up with those little sachets of jam, milk and butter for use in the hostel. Just past the gardens is a good village shop where I bought milk and half a chicken. Didn't really need to do this and carry it up the hills as in Gairloch there are even better shops and they have a good selection of food at the hostel.
The Gairloch Youth Hostel is in a superb position overlooking Loch Gairloch and is run by a young local warden. The place is very welcoming and well organised and when I was there had a good mixture of really friendly people.
Because I'd had little sleep for a few days and met some hard riding decided to spend 2 days here. The village has a famous coffee/bookshop so seemed like a good place for a day off. The Mountain Coffee Shop has a wacky bookshop attached and the most amazing selection of different types of scones. It is a bit expensive but I understand part of the price is a donation to maintain the enviroment. It is a lovely place to relax and well worth a stop even if you are just passing through. Gairloch is recommended as a rest day.
The hostel is a former hunting lodge donated to SYHA back in the 1930s and is one of the best hostels I stayed in. Most of the other guests were walkers/climbers out to conquer Munros. Two brothers had the day before bagged two that are close together by hiking across the moors for 10 miles, camping and being eaten by midges, not sleeping, then climbed the two peaks before hiking out again.
Two of the others were Ruth and Aileen who had been building snowmen above where I was cycling the day before so no wonder I was cold on the bike. They had also been due to stay in a bothy on the hills above Dundonnell before climbing a peak. Two other men turned up and one of them, who hadn't exercised for twenty years, proceeded to have a heart attack.
Now lucky for him the two women are nurses and they kept him going until the helicopter arrived. One of them is actually a critical care nurse so he was doubly lucky. The casualty was airlifted off in one of their £300 sleeping bags. His partner went with him and the nurses were left to share a bag on the floor of the bothy. They said the place smelt of sick and liitle sleep was possible so yesterday they had hiked out again without climbing. Ruth has climbed all the Munros(283) and was on her second lap to help her younger friend.
Met them in the local shop and we arranged for me to buy the pudding-apple pie and custard- and they bought the eggs and bacon. Had a very relaxing day as later I fell asleep in the sunny sandunes below the hostel.
Two of the others were Ruth and Aileen who had been building snowmen above where I was cycling the day before so no wonder I was cold on the bike. They had also been due to stay in a bothy on the hills above Dundonnell before climbing a peak. Two other men turned up and one of them, who hadn't exercised for twenty years, proceeded to have a heart attack.
Now lucky for him the two women are nurses and they kept him going until the helicopter arrived. One of them is actually a critical care nurse so he was doubly lucky. The casualty was airlifted off in one of their £300 sleeping bags. His partner went with him and the nurses were left to share a bag on the floor of the bothy. They said the place smelt of sick and liitle sleep was possible so yesterday they had hiked out again without climbing. Ruth has climbed all the Munros(283) and was on her second lap to help her younger friend.
Met them in the local shop and we arranged for me to buy the pudding-apple pie and custard- and they bought the eggs and bacon. Had a very relaxing day as later I fell asleep in the sunny sandunes below the hostel.