The Start
In 2007 we got to John O Groats on June 4th, Alison's bithday, before setting off south the day after. This year we decided to meet at John O Groats on the same day. Counting back from then, May 20th was set for my departure from Lands End. This would give me 16 days to get there meaning I wouldn't be rushing and taking on too much as this would still be less than halfway. Local friends were convinced that it was all too much and they would never see me again.
Day 1: Lands End-Penzance-Hayle-Portreath-Redruth-Chacewater-Truro-St. Austell-Lostwithiel-65miles
The days before the off seemed to drag but eventually May 20th arrived and at 8a.m. everything was packed in the car and we set off to drive the 10miles to Lands End. When we arrived a group of young cyclists were getting ready cycle to Kent in aid of one of their children who was suffering from an incurable condition and another older Scottish couple were about to leave for a slow end to end-much more of them later.
It is often pointed out that you should always start from Lands End to take advantage of the prevailing westerlies, well on Tuesday May 20th 2008 there was an easterly gale-no exaggeration. We had a small party of well wishers to see us off and the banner they were holding almost became the sail that took them off Lands End.
The photographer from the local newspaper arrived, the photos were taken and off I went-cycling the 10 miles back home for a cup of tea. About halfway to Penzance, near Crows an Wra I came across my two new Scottish friends who had set off half an hour before me, the wind by now was so strong they were pushing their bikes. A quick hello and I rushed on. Now I didn't actually go back to my house but stopped 50 yds away at the fishing tackle shop on the seafront and after a few more goodbyes and goodlucks I was off again.
Alison had decided she would follow me in the car for the first 3 days, to feel more a part of the adventure from the off, before returning home to get ready for her trip. Her bike was in the car and every now and again she would zoom ahead, park the car and cycle back to meet me.
We went through Hayle and onto the North Coast road to Portreath (B3301)-highly recommended-a few hills to start but then more or less flat and downhill into Portreath and up the valley to Redruth. I cycled through Redruth then to Chacewater on my way to the Children's Hospice South West HQ in Truro to meet some of the staff I had corresponded with but never met in person. Alison then dropped details of our trip to Radio Cornwall, who said they would ring us on day 2, while I headed out of Truro on the main road towards St. Austell.
Below: Meeting Emma Lloyd-ex Radio Cornwall-now with CHSW
Our next port of call was the village of Tywardreth, just outside St. Austell, to meet a freelance reporter called Tim Bullen. Tim had already managed to get us some publicity by having a small article printed in The East Cornwall Guardian (well something like that). Tim's idea now was to take a photo of us as we were cycling through Cornwall perhaps by some local landmark that would be of more interest to readers in the east of the county and so we agreed to meet in Tywardreth.
Once we left Tim it really felt like we were off on our great adventure. Lostwithiel was the first stop-it's a town Alison and I know well through fishing and we like it there especially down by the river. The first day from Lands End, by all routes is very hilly, as are the next two into Devon so don't take on too much. With the excitement of starting it would be very easy to be carried away and do yourself in before you've hardly begun.
Our B&B was Penrose House 01208871417 and we had an excellent meal at The Globe Inn.
Below: Posing yet again at Tywardreth
Day 2: Lostwithiel-Dobwalls-Liskeard-Callington-Gunnislake-Tavistock-Okehampton-Bow-Coleford-Crediton-63miles
If you live in Cornwall you never quite feel as if you've gone anywhere until you cross the border and so I was looking forward to crossing the Tamar today. I set off along the A390 towards Dobwalls having arranged to meet Alison in Liskeard. The Dobwalls area at the moment looks like a first world war battleground as a long awaited by-pass takes shape. Approaching a myriad of controflows and temporary roundabouts I decided walking might be safer- the thought of having to return home on day 2 having had an accident was too embarrassing to contemplate.
At the other end of the works I remounted and set off downhill towards Liskeard to be met by a lane closure and heavy traffic. Now one of the worst things that can happen on a bike is to be stuck at the head of a line of traffic with no room for them to pass and nowhere for you to pull in. Immediately behind me was a huge coach and he really was immediately behind me because as I tried to speed down the hill I encountered major turbulence. A few days before the off I'd fitted one of those plastic map holders to my new bike-looked quite professional I thought-but perhaps I just got the angle wrong because at any speed over 18mph it was acting like an aeroplane ailieron and causing the front end to zig zag all over the road. I had this feeling of a line of traffic behind me getting longer and longer and all of them thinking I was drunk-I wonder if the coach driver was giving a commentary. After what seemed like an age I found an escape route into the roadworks came to a halt and paused to get myself together again-the map holder immediately came off and never saw the light of day again-in fact it went back home in the car. Anyone ever experienced this same problem?
Having recovered my composure I set off up the hill into Liskeard where there was no sign of Alison- I set about ringing her only to find she was a few yards away taking photos of me. (photo left) A quick break and off towards Callington.
I was born in Cornwall and as far as I can remember this was my first visit to the town but no time for more than a 10 minute sit down today as I knew there were plenty of hills to come. We'd agreed a lunch stop in Tavistock and it was not long before I had aching wrists trying to slow myself going down the never ending hill through Anne's Chapel across the river and into Gunnislake. We all know that a long downhill means pain to come and so it proved as I was then met with the drag out of Gunnislake and up to Tavistock.
Above: The New Inn at Coleford Above: Woodpecker outside our window at the farm |
When we met in Tavistock for lunch we had one of those it's a small world moments. We sat on a bench to eat our lunch and suddenly realised that on the next bench were a couple of ladies we know from Penzance! |
Day 3: Crediton-Bickleigh-Tiverton-Halberton-Uffculme-Wellington-Taunton-Othery-Glastonbury-Wedmore-Cheddar-75miles
Using a route via Crediton/Bickleigh is a bit of a challenge. The scenery is lovely but the hills are only for those who want a challenge. When you leave Crediton there is a long hill up to what you think is the top but this is a false top because the next 10 miles is a series of steep ups and downs before you reach the final long descent down to Bickleigh. I would actually say this is the hardest dozen miles of the whole end to end. There is a sense of satisfaction when you've done it but having done it twice I think I'm satisfied enough now! I didn't take Alison this way on the return journey.
After Tiverton I took the back roads to Halberton and Uffculme and as I went through the latter I spotted a sign outside the community centre saying please pop in for tea-so I did. Inside a group of elderly people-about my age-were pleased to see a visitor and were soon wanting to know all about my trip. Several of them sponsored me and one of them had recently finished teaching just like me. These accidental meetings make each day different and are the highlights of long distance cycling especially when you haven't got a fixed route and end up in villages by pure chance.
As I rejoined the A38 near Wellington I met 2 more end to enders and cycled along with them until I went into the town for refreshments and they went straight on-later near Taunton I went past them as they stopped at a village shop for supplies. Alison meanwhile was waiting for me in Taunton where we had lunch together before heading off to Othery on the A361.
Just after Othery 2 more end to enders appeared and I cyled with them-see photo below-anyone recognise them? While chatting I went past my turn off to Shapwick and ended up in Glastonbury where I turned off towards Cheddar on the B3151-I cycled quite a few extra miles on this day but at least it was on the Somerset Levels.
B&B-Neuholme 01934 742841-recommended
75 miles.
Day 4: Cheddar Gorge-Radstock-Bradford on Avon-Chippenham-Lynham(accidentally)-Cirencester-Bibury-80miles
Last year we had come to Cheddar from Bristol and had not come down the gorge so this year I had planned cycling up the gorge as one of my highlights but I must say I found it a little bit of an anticlimax. On these trips you get a bit masochistic and look forward to the hills. In the pub the night before a chap was recounting stories of smoking brakes when he comes down the gorge and so as I started up it the next day I was determined to get to the top without dismounting. Everytime I went round a corner I was waiting for the real Tour de France type climb to start but suddenly I realised I was at the top (photo below)-felt a bit cheated really. Nevermind plenty more hills to come and friends are still impressed when I show them photos of me going up the gorge!
The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed I'd been cheating a bit. With Alison set to go back to Penzance today it was now time to put the panniers back on. When I left home they weghed 4.2 kg each which I thought was good for a 6 week tour -by now however they were down to 3.5kg each as I kept throwing things out.
At the top of the gorge we said our goodbyes and I was off into the sunset (see below) what a hero! The next time I was due to see Alison was at John O Groats on her birthday.
Following various B roads I arrived in Radstock but not before stopping at roadside snackbar to witness a lorry pull up and ask for a bucket of water to put out the fire in his brakes-it was a huge truck and the driver had been delivering down some steep narrow lanes where his brakes had been overused.
As I entered Radstock there a bikeshop on my left and so I popped in to confirm directions to Wellow but was advised to use a completely different route. This happened to me quite often and local knowledge usually turned out to be good advice. I was told to take the A366 Trowbridge road and then the B3109 to Bradford on Avon There was a very long climb out of Radstock ( a lot harder than Cheddar Gorge) as I'd been warned in the bikeshop but once over that the route was hardly flat but quiet and scenic. After a few miles I suddenly came across a brilliant farm shop where I stopped for lunch-as you can see with Alison having departed I've now got lots of pictures of my bike leaning against things.
After lunch it was down into Bradford which is a beuatiful place but spoilt by the traffic. Once down in the town your faced with a long climb out and it was hot by now. There is nothing worse than a long climb in hot weather while being followed by a line of cars all getting impatient. Up the B3109 to Corsham and Chippenham and then on the B4069 out of Chippenham.
This route should have been straightforward but I got into a bit of a dream. I came to a 15% uphill and struggled to the top quite pleased with myself. As I was going up large plains were flying overhead and as I went round the next corner I found myself at the main gates of RAF Lyneham and within a few miles of Swindon-something not quite right here. I'd missed a turning back down the road at Sutton Benger-a rethink was needed-so it was on to Wootton Bassett and then follow the B4696 in the Cirencester direction.
Now I mentioned earlier that my route is not fixed so when I reached the Cotswold Water Park area I decided to go south of Cirencester through or past various Ampney villages and came out on the B4425 at Barnsley. It was teatime by now and as it was the start of the Bank Holiday weekend I thought I'd better start looking for B&B. Nothing in Barnsley so on to Bibury-what a lovely place-bit too busy though. Apparently it's a must visit for Japanese tourists.
Bibury is on a hill with the Swan Hotel, Bibury Trout Farm, a line of weavers cottages called Arlington Row and River Coln at the bottom. At the top was a nice looking guesthouse but they were full so they sent me to the bottom where there was no answer. So, back up the hill again to the pub. A young girl behind the bar said they had a spare room but it was £60 single! I explained why I was cycling and asked if there was any chance of discount so off she went upstairs to find the manager. Then down she came with the news that he was only a stand in and didn't have the authority to cut the prices so I had a decision to make, ride on or pay the price asked. As it was Bank Holidat time I decided I could be looking for ever so decided to pay the money and have a bit of luxury. I was shown over to a very nice chalet room and had a shower-half an hour later I was back in the bar with a nice pint bitter ordering an Irish Stew.
This is where the story takes a surprising turn. The manager came over to me and asked me again about the charity I was cycling for and then informed me that off their own bat the young staff had asked him to take the cost of the room out of their tips money. I was flabberghasted and it almost brought tears to my eyes and it wasn't over yet as they then spent the evening collecting money from customers for the charity. Isn't it fantastic when something like that happens and I'd got to this village purely by luck.
Below is a photo of some of the staff taken before I set off next morning-thanks to them all.
Unfortunately the young management couple on the right will no longer be there as they were having to move on as new people took over-I hope they end up somewhere nice. By the way the Irish Stew was tasty as well.
82 miles today.
Day 5: Bibury-Burford-Chipping Norton-Shipston on Stour-Stratford-Hatton Locks-Hasely Knob-62miles
I had enjoyed my stay at The Catherine Wheel so after a brilliant breakfast it was a real wrench to leave but I had to get on so off I went along the B4425 to Burford where I arrived on a busy Bank Holiday Saturday. This was really nice place and eventhough I'd only gone 10 miles couldn't resist stopping. Soon found an excellent cafe for coffee and a huge lardy cake. A few photos and off over undulating but scenic and enjoyable roads and lanes.
Below: A very busy Saturday morning in Burford-Huffkins Tearoom on the left-there's a posh side and an ordinary side for people like me.
As I got near to Chipping Norton I made a snap decision to take a left missing the town and going through Churchill, Cornwell and Little Rollright and then joining the A3400 at Long Compton which seemed to be a lovely village-I stopped at the village shop for quick snack and then on up the main road to Shipston on Stour another agreeable small town. Stratford was next and that was a real eye opener. The place was packed-it was as if a soccer match had just finished at Wembly -do people really get pleasure out of walking around shoulder to shoulder on a hot Bank Holiday Sunday. I didn't bother to stop.
Alison had found me a B&B at Hasely Knob. On the way there I called into Hatton Locks (photo below) because I'd read on the CTC forum about the award winning cafe-it had closed 10 minutes ago! Bugger!
Hasely Knob was not easy to find eventually a man mowing his lawn spotted me coming and waved. He turned out to be a keen cyclist and pointed me in the right direction-we had a chat about this and that and he recounted the story of a cycling record set back in the 30s or 40s where a chap cycled well over 200miles/day for a year-that means he could do end to end about 80 times-now that's impressive and he probably only had three gears.
The day ended badly when the landlady of my B&B kindly booked me a table and gave me a lift to the most pretentious pub/restaurant I've ever been in. I ordered roast chicken-well the chicken must have been a midget but it was still big enough to hide the veg under-I think they thought I was a Philistine when I ordered an extra portion of chips. The B&B was very good. The Croft 01926 484447
Day 6: Hasely Knob-Balsall Common-Meridan (the centre of England)-Burton on Trent-Ashbourne-Matlock-80miles
It was Sunday morning and as heavy rain was forecast I went down to breakfast early to try to beat the worst but it was already pouring. The day started really well when I met John-a lovely retired Scottish vicar. He was having an early start before going off to preach. We got on to the cycling and he recounted the story of a friend of his-another vicar-who had completed a sponsored ride from Scotland to Rome. Now as a master detective I worked out he must be Catholic and so it turned out-and John was Father John.
When I went upstairs to get my stuff a note had been pushed under the door and attached was £20 for the children's hospice-what a lovely man. So the day had started well but unfortunately it finished up very strangely as you will see.
From the B&B I went onto the A4177, I then cut across minor roads east of Balsall through Fen End and joined the A452 for a short while before going into Meridan-raining all the time. In Meridan I stopped for a break and to take a photo of my bike leaning against the cyclists memorial. This is to remember all cyclists killed during the 2nd World War. On the way back a few weeks later my wife and I called into a highly recommended little cafe just around the corner from the memorial and the owner was telling us that a lot of the cyclists that died were killed because there were no street lights and cars had headlights covered. Unfortunately the cafe was closed on the Sunday and this was to be the start of my problems.
From Meridan I went up the minor roads through Maxstoke and Shustoke to Kingsbury and then again on lovely quiet lanes through Wigginton, Harlaston, Croxall and Wilton on Trent to Burton. By now I was cold and soaking but also daft because I got into a kind of dream and just kept cycling. I went through Burton and onto Ashbourne again along minor roads through villages such as Foston, Church Broughton and Wyaston but of course being Sunday and not a real tourist area there was nowhere to stop-I had a few biscuits with me but that was about it. When I got to Ashbourne I really should have stopped but my plan had been to go over the hills to Bakewell and so off I went. My map by now was a soggy mass but the route should have been straightforward-however after going up the huge hill out of Ashbourne I turned right a mile too soon. I should have been on the B5035 but ended up on the B5056 but I didn't know anything of this mistake until coming back this way with my wife weeks later. On this Sunday I blindly kept climbing hill after hill heading for Bakewell-by now it was raining harder and blowing a gale straight into my face. At home Alison was frantically trying to find me a B&B in Bakewell with no success but eventually found me one in Matlock and so having reached Carsington Water by the time she phoned I started following signs to there.
This new route took me down Cromford Hill-which I know is well known in cycling circles-and doesn't it go on-when I was half way down I had to stop because my hands were so numb and my wrists so sore I couldn't hold the brakes on. This is the only time I've had to stop going down a hill! Eventually I got to my B&B frozen and soaking but this is where things turned out to be downright weird.
I had cycled nearly 90 miles in wind and rain with hardly a stop and my brain had gone funny! A friend phoned me and I didn't know his name and couldn't talk. I had a shower and then luckily was told of a pub almost next door that did an all day Sunday carvery-I went in had 2 pints of bitter then the most enormous help yourself roast followed by a slab of lemon merangue pie. Then I just sat there and gradually felt things coming back to life-this has never happened to me before and it was strange experience.
Because it was wet and cold the heating was on back at the B&B so I was able to dry everything off but I learnt a lesson that day. Before I went to bed I even ate all the free biscuits. By the way the wind was so strong coming over the Peak District one of my Cornish flags disappeared over the hills.
Day 7: Matlock-Bakewell-Bamford-Langsett-Jackson Bridges (Holmfirth)-60miles
The wind was still blowing when I left Matlock heading towards Bakewell-later the news reported the death of a girl caused by a falling tree. I travelled straight up the A6 and arrived in Bakewell on market day (Mondays). I like Bakewell-having spent a week in a holiday cottage there in 2006 -and headed straight for my favourite cafe-The Honeybun-it's only little but they have papers you can read. Coffee and cake and a quick look around the stalls before heading out of Bakewell on the A623 and B6001 to Heathersage and the A6187 and A6013 to Bamford. It was while going through Bamford I saw the signs for sheepdog trials and as an animal lover a detour was a must. As luck would have it I arrived at the trials as a fell race was setting off, to the top of Winn Hill and back.
The trials were in full swing and in fact were the first I'd witnessed live , having been a great fan of One Man and His Dog. A few photos were needed and so requests were made to likely looking people so that it would not just be my bike again. Next was a visit to the refreshments tent for tea and cake-I was going to eat all day today.
At the other end of the tent was a stand called Flossie Dog Productions. The stand owners also had three dogs with them so I went over for a chat- they produce 3 dimensional pictures and little models of farm scenes complete with dogs, farmers, sheep and dry stone walls-would make lovely presents. They kindly made a donation to my charity and allowed a photo call. As I was dragging myself away the fell runners were returning and collapsing on the grass- must have been tough as it was quite warm and extremely windy.
A couple of points about the photos above. First of all does your hair take the shape of your cycle helmet like mine does? People tell me I'm taking on the look of a badger. Secondly, I read on cycle forum threads about weight loss and cycling-look at my jacket it's hanging off me! When I bought it less than 2 years ago I was 13 stone by the time this photo was taken after end to end last year and training and setting off this year I was down to 10 stone 12- and I was in the pub every night.
Time to get going but must admit I was tempted to have a very short day after my trials and tribulations the day before. I set off up the steady climb on the A6013 to the Ladybower Reservoir turning left after the bridge and up another climb on the A57. After a couple of miles I took the left turn on to the minor road across the moor. This was a beautiful part of the trip with the road going up onto moorland hills and then down into steep wooded valleys. Some of the hills were 25% and with a gale straight into my face a bit of pushing was required on one of them-it was one of those hills when you get to the top dying only to find it's not the top. As I topped the crest a combination of the wind and sudden realisation that I was only two thirds of the way up brought me to a halt. Of course every time a car went past I leant on a gate and pretended I was just enjoying the scenery.
Below-The real top-looking back.
Having gone past places with names like Wigtwizzle I came out on the A616 and a few minutes up the road came to a cyclists cafe at Langsett and there were even two cyclists in there. They boosted my confidence by telling me how well I'd done coming over from Ladybower with panniers. Alison had booked me into The White Horse pub-as frequented by Compo and Cleggie in Last of the Summer Wine. This is situated just outside Holmfirth and so from the cafe I had a couple more miles of up and then a long descent towards Holmfirth on the B6106, turning off right just before I got there.
Now the pub was a very good and friendly place but two little complaints. Firstly they only ever film outside the pub-the inside shots are a studio and secondly the landlord showed me to my very nice room but when I came down he and his wife had gone out for the evening and the young girl behind the bar said there was no food on and this was Bank Holiday Monday. There was another pub 50 yds away and they didn't do food either- but the bar staff came to my rescue. "I'll put the chip pan on for you", she said and so I was presented with a huge basket of chips and a giant ham sandwich. Unfortunately for her all the locals now demanded free chips as well. This was all followed by various donations from the locals to my charity-thank you. One last problem was that down in this valley there was no mobile signal so before I went to bed I had to walk half way up the hill I'd enjoyed coasting down earlier before I could ring home.
Below: The White Horse the next morning-posing once more in the blue coat-raining yet again.
Day 8: Holmfirth-Huddersfield-Halifax-Keithly-Denholme-Skipton-Kettlewell-Leyburn-68miles
The rain was again pouring down as I left the White Horse planning to head for Howarth over the moors via Hebden Bridge but as I was cycling along a change of route was decided upon. As the weather was foul I decided to stick to the main roads through Huddersfield and Halifax-a decision with good and bad consequences.
I cycled along the A616 into Huddersfield and that was not too bad, Huddersfield seemed like quite a nice place but people may put me right on that score, however the next section to Halifax was anything but. Firstly there was a long drag through a built up area out of Huddersfield on the main A629 until you reach a large roundabout followed by an extremely steep downhill, through a short tunnel, that is a motorway in all but name. I stopped to take a photo but thought better of it-I thought about turning back but it was too late and so I set off through the tunnel and down the hill. It was horrendous-at one point a huge articulated low loader went slowly past me with it's brakes quite literally on fire! The road was full of holes especially where you would want to cycle and the wind was blowing me all over the place. Halifax was on my left and then another long climb up the A629 followed by an equally long downhill at the bottom of which my luck changed for the better. Ahead of me I could see a rough pull in with lorries, vans and a snack bar so pull in I did for a cup of tea and what lovely people I met.
The couple in snack van were mother and daughter and had bought the van a couple of weeks before. They were really friendly and my tea was free once they heard what I was doing. A couple of drivers who were listening gave me sponsorship money without even being asked, so despite the fact that I was soaking I really felt cheered up. The van is situated on A629 near the A6033 turn to Howarth. If you live that way stop for tea and say hello for me. Then it was off to Keighley where a large digital thermometer told me it was only 9 degrees centigrade.
From Keighley to Skipton the weather improved and I thought things would be alright from now on, little did I know what was to come later. A quick refreshment stop and another photo -notice the bloke being kind enough to stop so he wouldn't be in it-recognise him?
It was sunny when I now set off for Grassington and Kettlewell and my plan of getting to Leyburn seemed easy. The idea had always been to have a day off in Leyburn as I like the place. There is a cafe there called the Posthorn and they do the most wonderful scones that come straight out of the oven at 10a.m. and tomorrow I would sample them again but it didn,t quite go to plan.
I got to Kettlewell at 5 ish and went to yet another little cafe I've frequented before and had chocolate cake and coffee. The cafe by the car park in Kettlewell also does B&B and in retrospect I should have called it a day but no, I was determined to go on to Leyburn and so off I went up Coverdale. Now if you have been up Coverdale from Kettlewell you will know there are two of the steepest hills you can find. I knew I would have to walk up them but didn't realise quite how hard it is to push a laden bike up them. I had to zig zag and keep stopping for a rest-the back of my legs were killing me and by now it was thick mist and the wind was getting up. A couple stopped their car as they came down to ask if I was alright and to warn me about the conditions on top but I thought I knew the area and assured them there were no problems.
Below: Halfway up the second hill as the mist descends
Even at this point I thought about turning back but couldn't face undoing the effort I'd put in and so I eventually reached the top to be faced by a howling head wind that drove the rain straight through you. This was now getting silly if not a bit dangerous. The fog was solid and I was freezing but I just kept peddalling and heading for Leyburn-I could have done with another layer but you never feel like stopping in the rain. I have driven this road through Horsehouse and Carlton before and I'm sure it's got longer. By the time I got to Middleham and then Leyburn I was drowned and frozen through, it was nearly dark-like a November night.
I hadn't booked anywhere to stay and as I entered Leyburn I stopped outside a B&B but decided to try the Red Lion Hotel-big mistake- as later I was about to meet the rudist man in the world. I've been in this hotel for drinks and food before and I quite liked it then and so when I entered I was really on a high after my near death experience. As I stood dripping on the carpet a not over pleased lady said they only had a twin room and I would have to pay £44- no amount of bargaining helped and so I had to say yes. I was shown up to one of those tired looking rooms with stained carpets and no heating by the same woman who to be quite honest was also a bit tired and stained but the best was yet to come. A quick lukewarm bath-there was no shower-and down for food-which wasn't too bad and now I made a big mistake.
A new barman had taken over, a tall thin chap I'd seen on previous visits. I tried to chat away to him in a friendly way and should have spotted that he'd not graduated from charm school. After a couple of pints I went up to the empty bar-apart from one other-and started to ask about staying two nights. I thought it was a reasonable request when I said if I stay two nights would you let me have the twin room for £34 a night as this was the normal single room rate on the tarrif. The conversation went something like this.
"Excuse me, I'm on a charity cycle ride and as I like Leyburn and there's more rain forecast for tomorrow, I like to stay two nights. Would you let me have the room for £34/night? Then you'll at least have your room used".
"That room's worth £68 to us"
"Is it booked for tomorrow".
"No"
"Well I'm quite happy to stay an extra night and then you'll have an extra customer eating as well."
"I told you the room's worth £68 to us."
"It's not worth anything if it's empty."
"Yes but it's got two beds in it."
"But I'm only using one of them"
"It's a £68 room and if you don't like go and find somewhere else to stay."
At this point I was about to say were you born miserable or have you had to practise a lot but he turned his back on me and walked out of the hotel and stood outside-the other customer looked as flabberghasted as me. When he came back in he never even looked at me. What a contrast to day 4 in Bibury or the mother and daughter I'd met earlier that day.
Next morning I was served by the original not so friendly woman but helping her was a really cheerful, helpful young girl who bucked me up somewhat and also told me the story of what was happenning at the hotel. Apparently the hotel was being taken over in two days by new young people from Manchester and they had decided not to keep the services of Mr and Mrs Misery. Mrs Misery heard us talking and came out with-"People moving up here full of grand ideas-don't know what their talking about-sacking us-we been here for years." I presume the grand ideas were along the lines of actually being friendly.Now in all fairness the hotel has real potential and I shall certainly call in again, like a hotel inspector, to assess progress. Apparently Mr Misery is now a postman-I wonder if he whistles and gives everyone jolly hellos?
70 miles today and what a day of contrasts but isn't this the beauty of end to ending or any long cycle ride, if every day was perfect you'd having to tell stories about.
Day 9: Leyburn-Richmond-Barnard Castle-Cotherstone-36miles
After breakfast next day I had decisions to make so I left my bike at the back of the hotel and had a walk around the town in the rain. I could move over to another B&B or nip back down to Middleham and stay there. Middleham is a horseracing training centre and every morning hundreds of horses are ridden through the village up to the gallops and back again. I love sitting there watching them wondering at young boys and girls controlling these huge animals, especially when they start leaping around as cars go past. Anyway firstly off to the Posthorn Cafe for one of those scones and write a few postcards..
The weather was starting to brighten by the time I came out of the cafe so i went down to the tourist office and had a look at maps and accomodation lists. Barnard Castle seemed like a nice place and was only about 30miles away so I finally made the decision to have an easy day but still move on a bit-Leyburn had lost it's appeal for the moment. I phoned Alison and gave her the telephone numbers of B&Bs in and around Barnard Castle and she got me booked into Glendale at Cotherstone. This turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
Just before noon I set off to Richmond on the A6108-a quiet but hilly road that takes you through typical lush Dales sheep farming areas. In Richmond I sat in the park having a sandwich and met two more end to enders going north. They had spent last night in Leeds because they live there and were about to go up to Scotch Corner to rendevous with their support car. I decided to give the A66 a miss and went out of Richmond up a very steep long hill and then along the minor roads that run parrallel to the main road.
I went through Kirby Hall, Gayles, Dalton and Barningham before joining the A66 for half a mile and then the backroad into Barnard Castle. This road took me past the Bowes Museum-what an impressive building and one I'd like to return to.
Barnard Castle itself was a very interesting looking town and so I locked up my bike and had a wander before asking directions and heading out of town on the B6277 to Cotherstone. This was a good cycling road and the village lovely. I asked for help in the Post Office and was directed down a country lane where I stopped to ask a man with a rather large camera on his shoulder the way. He turned out to be a wildlife film maker and was actually the owner of the B&B.
Below:
Atmospheric shot at Barningham near Barnard Castle.
The Bowes Museum
Glendale-a lovely B&B at Cotherstone 01833 650384 www.teesdaleholidays.co.uk/glendale
David went off to film a peregrine falcon and I went on to the bungalow and what a contrast from last night. A super, clean and tidy room, welcoming cake, real milk and a truly beautiful setting surrounded by gardens and farmland- all for £28. If your going that way stay there- and it got even better. Morlene and David went out for the evening with friends who were staying and trusted me enough to leave me alone in the house. They recommended the Fox and Hounds, 400 yds down the road and I had a fantastic beef and ale pie and a few more pints of bitter.
It had been a relaxing day after yesterday's tribulations and everything seemed right with the world again. When I arrived back no one was home yet so I sat in the garden for a while and then off to bed. I was so tired I didn't even hear them come in.
Day 10: Cotherstone-Stanhope-Blanchland-Hexham-Bellingham-55miles
Breakfast next morning was a very relaxed affair and I must admit to having difficulty getting going-it was nearly 10 o'clock by the time I set off. It is impossible to pick out the best day of the trip but this certainly turned out to be one of them. The B6277 follows the Tees and this is a lovely cycling area-I then turned right onto the B6278 and began the long climb up onto the Pennines. When I reached the top I was really pleased with myself and thought it would be flat and then all the way down-little did I know what an exhilarating day was to come.
The views up there were fantastic and as I crossed over the coast to coast route later saw walkers and mountain bikers on their travels- can you spot the cyclists in the second photo?
This section of the ride was in three distinct sections. The first from Cotherstone to Stanhope was tough but beautiful. The weather was good if windy and the roads were largely traffic free. The long uphill was followed by flat stretches further climbs with sheep for company and then by a long steep downhill section into Stanhope.
Stanhope was an interesting looking town that owes it's formation to lead and coal with the former being a great source of wealth for centuries. It is certainly a place that demands another visit. In the town is The Dales Centre- a tourist information centre with craft shops and an excellent cafe.
The next target was Blanchland and this section was very tough. It starts with a very steep and long climb out of Stanhope on the B6278, I was really pleased with myself when the top was reached without stopping-later it was to look even steeper coming back down with Alison. This was followed by another beautiful stretch on top of the moors where I realised I'd left my map back in Stanhope. That hill I'm afraid was far too big to even think about going back down. I flagged down another cyclist as I stopped at an unsigned fork and he explained the alternatives. I took the left fork off the B6278 along an undulating minor road towards Baybridge and Blanchland and again the scenery was amazing. As I entered Northumberland the road took me down into a sheltered valley and the fantastic village of Blanchland.
Now Blanchland is a place with a very well to do appearence and has apparently been used as a film set often. It looks like a place in a time warp and again owes it's past wealth to lead mining. It was a lovely and welcoming surprise that the impressive building pictured was a tea rooms-open every day of the year except Christmas Day. It was as nice inside as out and while I was having my afternoon tea I was joined by another local cyclist.
After tea I set off up yet another demanding climb on the B6306 heading for Hexham and after a few miles the other cyclist - a carbon framed racer caught me up. We cycled along together for a few miles until my mobile went and he zoomed off home. The call was Alison telling me she had booked me into a B&B in Bellingham 15 miles north of Hexham so there was still quite a way to go on what was a tough but very enjoyable day.
A lot of ups and downs later and I was going down a very steep hill, with a terrible surface into Hexham where I called into the tourist information office to ask about the route to Bellingham. The lady called for her male assistant who was apparently a keen cyclist and he huffed and puffed about the impossibility of the route. I was to be met by hills like walls of tarmac and huge timber lorries coming down from Keilder-far too dangerous he said and preceded to show me a very roundabout route on the map that involved going along the river and following forest cycle tracks. I thanked him very much, had a cup of tea in the cafe next door and then went my own way up the B6320.
As I crossed Hadrian's Wall I was all the time waiting for the walls of tarmac to appear and in fact when I got to Bellingham felt very let down-the road is generally uphill but was a doddle compared to the rest of the day. Bellingham (pronounced Belling jum) was to be my last stop in England and another place I really liked. It is not necessarilly a pretty village but comfortable and friendly. As I entered the village I stopped to ask a young lady the way and she actually worked in the tourist office and had done the booking.
The B&B was brilliant- Lynn View 01434 220344. It is run by Helen and Graham, a local couple who were so warm and welcoming- tea and biscuits immediately appeared ( Mr Happy of Leyburn please note). They have a garage a few yards away that can be used to lock up bikes and a beautiful rear garden. Bellingham is also on the Pennine Way and two other guests were mother and daughter on their 14th day with 2 days to go.
After a shower I was directed by Graham down to the Rose and Crown which is one of those pubs which on first entering does not appear very welcoming but turns out to be excellent. The locals were mixture of Newcastle and Sunderland supporters who got on well enough in the pub but told me of the hatred they have for each others clubs. They would rather Man Utd won the cup than another north east team and as for Middlesborough-apparently everyone hates them-they described it as a polluted hell hole. But they really were friendly people! I had the best curry I've had for a long time.
This had been an excellent day- a really satisfying ride, a very good B&B and a good pub. What more could you want.
Day 11:Bellingham-Carter Bar-Jedburgh-Melrose-52miles
The next morning I said farewell to Helen (left) and set off in the rain to Scotland. From Bellingham there is a long drag up towards Otterburn on the B6320. I didn't go into the town but the whole area is steeped in history from before the Romans to the First World War. As you cycle along the A68 towards Carter Bar there is a cafe and cheap B&B on your right. They have a rebuilt stone age hut at the back and all sorts of info about the area being used to practice trench warfare before those poor youngsters were sent off to France. There is still a huge army base in the area and thousands of acres are used for artillery practice. I thought this part of Northumbria was quiet and isolated but well worth a return visit.
The A68 was a good cycling road as the worst of the traffic uses the A1. You go through part of the Keilder Forest before starting the long climb up to Carter Bar. This is apparently the highest road crossing into Scotland with magnificent views but as I went up the hill the fog got thicker and thicker. I had to pause at some roadworks and one of the workers confirmed the truth in the saying "it's all up hill to Scotland". Eventually I got to the top at about 1400 ft and here was the view! Couldn't see a thing!
The little table is not me begging -more of that story on the return journey-and I actually get to see the view.
It was at this point that my route again changed after chatting with the friendly lady in the snack van. I asked her about my planned route to Hawick and she advised going via Jedburgh and so, as I often did on this trip, I took her local advice and set off down the never ending zig zagging hill to the borders. By the time I reached Jedburgh I had done 35 hilly miles and went into the tourist information office. They phoned ahead for me and after a bit of trouble, it was a busy Friday, they found a B&B in Melrose only about 12 miles away. Jedburgh was another town that appealed to me- in fact this whole Borders Region is lovely, with some great cycle routes.
Because I was not in a rush I decided to follow a sustrans route to Melrose via Ancrum, Belses and Lilliesleaf on the B6400 and then the B6359-this was a brilliant detour. The route went around the west of the Eildon Hills and down a long back hill into Melrose. As I entered the town the first thing I came across was the historic Melrose rugby ground and as a rugby fan couldn't resist a photo.
Melrose is a small town with a circular one way system going right around the it. My B&B was excellent and highly recommended www.dunfermlinehouse.co.uk 01896 822411. There are several B&Bs in the town and all looked good- there is also an impressive looking Youth Hostel. On the way back Alison and I stayed just outside Melrose but more of that later.
A few yards from my accomodation was a beautiful old abbey and Melrose has plenty of pubs and eating places. Later that evening a I met a large group of cyclists in one of the pubs, who all worked in the same chemical factory in North East England and were following one of the designated tourist cycle routes around the borders. Apparently they organise several of these each year and were a very cheerful bunch. It is difficult to choose but this was definately one of my favourite stop offs and a place to base yourself in for a cycling holiday.
Day 12:Melrose-Galashiels- Stow-Edinburgh-Inverkeithing-Kelty-Kinross-68miles
Day 12 started with a very good and entertaining breakfast. There were two trout anglers and their wives staying and Bryan the owner overheard the wives talking about going shopping. "I was shopping with my wife yesterday," he said with a straight face. "She said she needed a new dress. What's wrong with the one you've got I asked her?" "It's too long and the veil gets in my eyes."
A few minutes later sounding deadly serious it was- "My wife had her credit card stolen lastweek."
"What did you do? Have you reported it?"
"No I'm not going to bother, the thief's spending less than she does."
Later the same day in Inverkeithing on the other side of thr Forth Bridge I was in a cafe and a police car went past with lights flashing and siren sounding. Immediately the Scottish bloke behind the counter came up with "Someone up the pub has broken into a fiver again." In fact a lot of the Scottish people I met were friendly and welcoming but constantly played up to the standard careful with their money jibe.
Anyway after breakfast it was up the A7 towards Edinburgh. A quick stop in Stow for a coffee and scone and then generally uphill until the outskirts of the city. There are minor roads running alongside the A7 that you can get onto for a good part of the journey but although very quiet are also hillier. I didn't have a route planned through Edinburgh so I went past Bonnyrigg and Dalkeith and just kept going downhill and suddenly came out onto Princes Street by a monument of Wellington on his horse. As I stood on the pavement a group of entertainers were setting up-bagpipes, drums and a Scottish dancer-it was brilliant-really felt as if I'd arrived north of the border. Gave Alison a ring to let her hear. I'm not a city person but I thought Edinburgh looked like a place worth a few days visit in the future.
Next it was a walk along the road past Waverley Station, where Alison would be arriving in a couple of days time, to the castle and then off right, downhill because I guessed the Firth of Forth must be down there somewhere-I love the uncertainty of taking a gamble-no sat nav for me! I found myself cycling along Queensferry Road and then onto a cycleway signposted Forth Road Bridge. I seemed to have missed a turning somewhere in Dalmeny as I ended up under the bridge in South Queensferry-there were long queues of mainly Japanese tourists waiting for boat trips. The main street of the town is cobbled not good for cycling so I pushed the bike eating an ice cream. I now had a long drag uphill to find the bridge cycleway where it was time for yet more photos. It is an impressive structure, as is the railway bridge, and there were hundreds of people walking over it.
Once over the bridge it was a short ride into Inverkeithing. There is a cycle shop on your left as you enter the town and I stopped to chat with a couple of pannier laden cyclists. They were on a tour and had just had repairs done in the shop. They had signed up to an AA style cycle insurance and the chap's gears had given up, after a phone call a rescue van had brought them and their to the nearest cycle shop and the repairs had been done, sounds like a good idea for end to enders if you're worried about getting stranded. The company is ETA and cycle recue is £34 in Britain-for £50 it includes punctures! You can include Europe for an extra fee.
A quick stop in a cafe where I met yet another tourer who was doing Berwick to JOG via the coast. After a chat I set off up the B981, B917 and B996 through Kelty to Kinross where I was booked into www.roxburgheguesthouse.co.uk 01577 862498.
Kinross seems to have two distinct ends to it. As you enter from the south it looks a bit rundown then there are shops and on into a "posher" end. My B&B was at the south end and very good but there are also a few more at the far end where the eating places are. After a shower I wandered through the town and had a very good meal in The Greene- a kind of pub attached to a golfing hotel. I had cycled 70miles today with quite a few hills and was still hungry so went in the chippy on the way back!
Day 13: Kinross-Perth-Bankfoot-Dunkeld-Pitlochry-Blair Atholl-60miles
The day in Kinross started with a good breakfast-an Arbroath Smokie-very nice too. It was then the minor roads that run alongside the M90 to Perth where I headed for the banks of the River Tay. There was an art and craft fair on with stalls all along the pavements overlooking the river so I pushed my bike along looking at the paintings until I got to the start of the cycleway around the lovely parkland A few weeks earlier someone on the CTC forum had advised this route and it was brilliant. The path follows the river and alongside the golfcourse before seemingly heading in the wrong direction Almonbank and Pitcairngreen, I almost got off it on to the main roads but glad I didn't as the route turns north and takes you to Bankfoot where there is a cafe, pub and B&B before following the B867 into Dunkeld. From now on I found I was following Sustrans routes 7 and 77 all the way to John O Groats and hardly needed a map at all -I must say the signing was excellent.
Dunkeld is worth a stop- a lovely little town on the Tay. I stopped to chat to a local cyclist and he directed me to a cyle path along the river through the grounds of the Hilton Hotel (photos above and below)-it gets a little bit rough but I'd highly recommend it-you rejoin the B898 a couple of miles north. As you can see the bluebells were out.
Next it was on to Pitlochry another town to join my list of favourites. The Sustrans route takes you past the Festival Theatre. This theatre is something you do not expect almost in the middle of nowhere. It was the idea of a John Stewart, who established a tent theatre here in 1944. A brand new building was opened in 1981 at Port-na Craig on the banks of the River Tummel and is a great tourist attraction for the area showing everything from Shakespeare to pop concerts.
It was in Port-na Craig that I met Kath Sanderson - the owner of The Ferryman's Cottage-a superb B&B with an ice cream Kiosk attached. On the way back I would, by pure chance, stay here with Alison so more of this lovely place to come. On this visit I was treated to free ice cream before I went across the pedestrian suspension bridge to Pitlochry town proper- but not before meeting Duncan the dog who delighted in carrying half a tree around. Not sure who looks dafter in the photo below, Duncan or me.
Up through Pitlochry past the Youth Hostel and backpackers hostel and out on the B8079 to Killiecrankie where you pass the Soldiers Leap where in 1689, after the Battle of Killiecrankie, a government soldier is said to have leapt over 18ft across a gorge in the River Garry as he was being chased by highlanders.
Then it was on to Blair Atholl where I stayed at the very good Dalgreine Guesthouse 01796 481276 - they welcome cyclists (photo below). Beer and food was at the other end of the village. There you will find The Atholl Arms Hotel and attached to this is the Bothy Bar-a cheaper option. I had a very entertaining evening here.
The bar was manned by a bald German who tried his best to be welcoming but his very loud "Welcome can I help!" came out more like an order, his only assistant was a totally mad and miserable Scotsman who presumably hadn't been consulted on staff appointments. The German fellow was obviously new and did not really know where everything was or the prices or how to work the computerised till. Despite this the Scotsman refused to help him and although there was queue of people waiting to order he stood at the end of the bar folding napkins. The queue was largely caused by another Scottish tourist who didn't want cabbage with her meal but as she wasn't having cabbage demanded an alternative veg or a refund. Now of course the preset computer till did not easily allow for this and the poor German fellow was getting more and more flustered.
The only other member of staff in site was a very friendly French waitress who went behind the bar to try to help but her English was limited and this only really added to the entertainment as the queue was almost out of the door by now. Eventually the Scotsman, with a huff and puff came and took over and then with a look of disdain walked off into the kitchen followed by the German. Immediately all hell broke loose as they started swearing and shouting at each other on the other side of the swing doors. Everyone in the bar was killing themselves and the poor waitress was really embarrassed. She then went out to try and make the peace, "Shut up both of you they are all listening". The German then spent the rest of the evening waiting on customers. As he was carrying the meals around I swear you could see steam coming out of his ears, he sort of threw the plates on the tables and stormed off. The food wasn't bad though!
Day 14: Blair Atholl-Dalwhinnie-Newtomore-Kingussie-Aviemore-Tomatin-Moy-Inverness-86miles
The stretch up the old A9 from Blair Atholl to Inverness is a memorable one whether you are going north or south. The scenery is magnificent in places and there are long stretches with no towns or villages. The old road goes from smooth to rough to downright terrible but it is still an exhillerating ride. Not long after leaving my overnight stop I came around a corner to be faced by a red squirrel in the middle of the road but he wouldn't stop long enough for a photo. For miles and miles there was no traffic at all and then every now and again the route takes you alongside the new A9-on the return trip you will see a lovely photo of Alison that looks like she's about to be flattened by a truck. The photo above was taken approaching the Drumochter Summit with wild lupins in the foreground and snow in the distance (spot the bike). The climb up had been long and steady but not over taxing, you can see that this section was on a grit cycle path.
There is a cafe at Dalwhinnie but it did not look appealing and so I continued on towards Newtonmore where there is a surprise as you approach from the south as a large visitor centre including a cafe with free internet access appears alonside the cyclepath-still not quite sure why it's there-for walkers I assume- but very welcome it is. Newtonmore and Kingussie are both very appealing towns with plenty of B&Bs and cafes if you feel like stopping- but Aviemore is not at all as nice. Living in Cornwall it reminds me very much of Newquay but with snowboards and skis instead of surfboards but the young people look the same-bit paler perhaps.
Straight through Aviemore and you will soon find yourself on the A95 for a short stretch before taking a left onto the B9153 and then into Carrbridge. I stopped at the Old Bakery Cafe at the far end and really liked the look of the village, a view confirmed when we stayed here on the return.
Leaving Carrbridge you are on virtually traffic free lanes close to the main road and it was here I stopped to talk to a well built bearded cyclist. His bike was laden front and back- looked like he was moving house-turned out he was from the Shetlands and was on a trip down to Yorkshire to visit his daughter. He had planned to go through Nairn and around the coast towards Aberdeen but for some reason had changed his mind but he had no maps to cover his new route. I thought I was relatively unprepared but he was totally lost. He had left Inverness on the A9 cycled up that huge hill and then for miles, right up to Tomatin, diced with death amongst the trucks and tourist traffic. He had no idea that just a few yards away was a quiet and safe route, he'd only just got onto the old road when I met him. Anyway I got my maps out and advised him to follow route 7 south and off he went towards the ever darkening skies to try a place to pitch the tent he was carrying along with a months supply of dried food. I wonder what happened to him.
By the time I reached Daviot it was getting late and rain was threatening so instead of following the route up to Culloden I decided to jump onto the A9 for the long long hill down into Inverness. I had nowhere booked for the night so went straight down to the river and found a room in Winston House(01463 234477) which overlooks the River Ness. It was funny to think that Alison was only a day behind me at this moment and tomorrow would be in Inverness as well. We've been here before and both like the city very much. I had a couple of pints but the pub I was in had no food on so I bought one of those ready made Tesco salads and sat by the river opposite the castle. I then phoned ahead to the Crask Inn and booked a room for the following night.
Day 15: Inverness-Evanton-Alness-Ardgay-Falls of Shinn-Lairg-Crask Inn-66miles
I was looking forward to today, only two days to go and a visit to Crask. Last year we had stopped there for lunch only to find that for the first day for years no one was at home. As you leave Inverness you have to cross the Kessock Bridge, a spectacular view but terrible to cycle- there is a cycle path but it's narrow with a poor surface and the traffic is heavy. Once on the other side the marked cycle route takes you down to North Kessock, where there is a good cafe and from there you can follow a quiet lanes and cycle paths up to the Tore Roundabout. On the way down Alison and I were to come across the Nigg Ferry and the Black Isle(recommended- details later) but on my own I headed up the A9 coming off at Evanton and on towards Alness. As I approached Alness I turned left on to the B9176 which is a tough but excellent route. You go up and up into wild countryside and than just before dropping down onto the A836 you come to Struie Hill where there is a wonderful viewpoint. A couple of helpful German tourists took the photo above and if you can face the hills this is an excellent choice of route.
From the viewpoint a long steep hill brings you down to the A836 where you turn left and head for Ardgay. Bonar Bridge is worth a visit , as we did in 2007, this year however I took the minor road that takes you up the side of the Kyle of Sutherland towards Carbisdale Castle. You come to Invershin Station and a cycle path leads you to the railway bridge where a bit of carrying is required to get down the metal steps onto the walkway (photos on return journey). Once on the other side you rejoin the A836 again for a short distance before taking the B864 to the Falls Of Shin where there is an excellent visitor's centre with a good cafe and a Harrods shop with a life size model of Mohammed El Faied in a kilt.
The B road then takes you to Lairg which is your last chance to stock up before Crask. The road from Lairg northwards gradually climbs into a wilderness-not beautiful but your first sight of real highland landscape. After about 12 miles you suddenly cross a stream and come across a group of buildings which form the Crask Inn a wonderful place and a must for a visit. (photo below)
If you read accounts from end to enders many stop here and it is achieving a kind of cult following and I must I am now one of these. When arriving on this day- having covered 66miles-there was no sign of life but a note on the door said "Peter Maddern go round the back," and so I did where the pub's dogs greeted me and a lovely lady from Altnaharra appeared from inside the Inn to inform me that the ownerers had shot off to visit a new grandchild and would be back later. I was shown upstairs to a basic but extremely comfortable twin room and informed that dinner would be at 7. There is no TV here but a grand piano, books, games and a peat fire which had been lit as summer still hadn't arrived.
Downstairs is a bar and dinning room, full of character and I must recommend the bottled Black Isle Brewery bitters-absolutely superb. Dinner was a three course affair with soup, venison and a lovely crumble followed by coffee-all for £12 -brilliant. The other people staying were a father and son trout fishing the local, almost dry, stream. They were having a bad week and had only caught 300 trout-no joke. The other couple of gentlemen had paid £2000 for a weeks salmon fishing on the River Strathnaver only to be met by little more than a trickle of water, no rain for weeks, and therefore no fish. But you still have to pay.
After dinner I had a quick walk outside where I was soon reminded this is midge country so a retreat back to the bar was necessary where I met Tom, the son, who is a travelling sheep shearer in Scotland and New Zealand- a really nice young man who obviously works his socks off. Darkness hardly comes this far north in summer and the photo below was taken at about 11pm -the evening light is amazing as there is absolutely no light pollution.Apparently it is an fantastic place for astronomers. Don't go up or down the A9/99 come this way-superb route. Crask Inn 01549 411241
Day 16: Crask-Altnaharra-Bettyhill-Strathy-Melvich-Dounreay- Thurso-Castletown-John O Groats-86miles
The final day -well actually not even halfway- but you know what I mean. The morning was still and sunny and this part of the ride I remembered as being brilliant from last year. After a superb breakfast at the Crask Inn it was a steady climb followed by seemingly miles of downhill into Altnaharra. There is a small B&B here that has a very good reputation and later in the trip I met a couple of cyclists who confirmed this. Altnaharra is situated at the end of Loch Naver and has three different routes out of it heading north. I was to head up Strathnaver B873- and if you have never cycled this road please make sure you do one day. The road is flat and the scenery beautiful. A few miles up the road you come across a small caravan site-can't be many better views anywhere in Britain-a good place to stop for an ice cream. All along this valley are signed historic sights especially telling the story of the Clearences and what a tragic story that is. On either side of the valley are mountains and moors but the valley itself is very lush and sheltered.(photo below)
After 33 miles I came out onto the north coast road and a further couple of miles and your in Bettyhill, a sizeable settlement with hotel, shop, B&Bs and a tourist information centre with cafe. There are two lovely beaches very much like Cornwall and in fact a lot of Northern Scottish beaches are becoming popular surfing venues-the photo below was actually taken on the return journey, and shows Alison having a stroll, but it illustrates the point.
Coffee and cake at the cafe and it was time to tackle the challenging but enjoyable hills from Bettyhill to Strathy and Melvich. Both of these villages have pubs B&Bs and shops-we stayed at the Strathy Inn on the return and it was very good. After Melvich there is one more long hill but then , in comparison, it is flat all the way to John O Groats.
By the time I'd reached Melvich Alison was near Thurso but as she'll tell you in her chapter there was a slight train problem. Anyway, rather than wait she cycled on to JOG Youth Hostel and we arranged to meet later on the road near John O Groats. As you get closer to one of your goals, even at my age, you get excited and I was in real hurry by now. There was a near gale force easterley blowing and I also went past Dounreay at just the wrong time as the day shift had obviously just finished, The traffic on the narrow road was terrible. There is a signed cycle route that atkes you via Shebster and Westfield to Thurso and having used it on the return leg it is recommended.
There is a climb out of Thurso and then the scenery really changes as the land becomes flat and open. There are shops and pubs at Castletown and Mey and of course the Queen Mother's summer residence. Near the Gills Bay ferry terminal Alison appeared around the corner and we battled against the wind together the last few miles to John O Groats. 86 miles in total today and 1060 for the uphill leg, that's over 100 shorter than last years western route but an awful lot hillier.
Now I don't know if it's just me but there is something a bit disappointing about this place, perhaps because I live at the other end or because I'd been here the year before but finishing on this day was a bit of an anti-climax. We went into the Seaview Hotel for a drink and meal and then headed back to the hostel in fact we didn't even bother with photos although tomorrow was to be better.
We'd allowed an extra day at JOG just in case I was late and so having spent my first ever night in a Youth Hostel the next morning we cycled back to JOG to watch the world go by and to rest my legs. We lay on the grass by the signpost eating bacon butties from the snack bar and watched numerous people on a variety of transport come and go. We found this really interesting and it was good to chat to people about their trips. Some had family to greet them others were on their own while one pair pulled from their panniers a small bottle of Champagne and cigars and then after a quick rest were off to Thurso to catch the last train. Living at one end I suppose I'm spoilt in that when you finish your home and don't have the hastle of travelling next day. If I had to I think I would certainly start at JOG and finish at Lands End as getting home from there is a lot easier and while Lands End is a bit of a mess these days at least the cliffs make for dramatic finishing photographs.
Just after lunch I went up to the local shop to get some provisions for that night at the hostel but when we got there it was half closing day for the shop and garage and this was the holiday season! So Cornflakes for tea as well.
As a final farewell to JOG we cycled out to Duncansby Head in the afternoon and as you can see below the scenery here is much more spectacular and well worth a visit. At the hostel we had a little double room with bunks but I must say the facilities were excellent and the place immaculate. The second photo below is from our little room's window looking down over the local school to the sea.
Tomorrow we were off to the Orkneys and it was almost like going to bed on Christmas Eve-how exciting!