Day 72: Penarth to Weston- Super-Mare 82 miles
Really excited today as I felt the journey was entering it's last stage, one final detour to cross the Severn and then a straight run home, although actually still a week to go. Breakfast was interesting, chatting to an Australian who had been touring around Britain for 8 weeks by car. He had tickets for the Ashes Test at Lords in a couple of weeks.
I would have loved to have had tickets for the test taking place in Cardiff today and had visions of meeting someone who would invite me to spend the day with him in his luxury private box-but it never happened.
From Penarth it was a short run down to the shores of Cardiff Bay and the good news that I was allowed to cycle across the Cardiff Bay Barrage. Being Sunday morning and with the cricket in town the place was a hive of activity. An international rowing regatta, a food festival and numerous other entertainments. It was really interesting seeing in real life what I'd only seen on the television. Back home a few months later a man I know slightly came up to me in a pub in Penzance and said, "I didn't see you cycling through Cardiff in the summer, did I?"
I would have loved to have had tickets for the test taking place in Cardiff today and had visions of meeting someone who would invite me to spend the day with him in his luxury private box-but it never happened.
From Penarth it was a short run down to the shores of Cardiff Bay and the good news that I was allowed to cycle across the Cardiff Bay Barrage. Being Sunday morning and with the cricket in town the place was a hive of activity. An international rowing regatta, a food festival and numerous other entertainments. It was really interesting seeing in real life what I'd only seen on the television. Back home a few months later a man I know slightly came up to me in a pub in Penzance and said, "I didn't see you cycling through Cardiff in the summer, did I?"
As I so often did in cities, I got lost at this point but eventually found my through various industrial estates and out to the B4239 that took me on a lovely flat and scenic route foolowing the coast to Newport. Went through some lovely villages and then met a Cardiff Cycle Club member who was out doing a self timed 10 mile time trial. Once he'd regained his breath he guided me to the outskirts of the town and gave me instructions on how to get through.
There is another transporter bridge in Newport but unfortunately it is not working as no one can afford to repair it. It looks identical to the Middlesborough bridge but I could only take photos today, what a shame. Stopped next to the bridge to chat to some anglers and then round the corner found a good roadside snack bar run by a mum and daughter where I had a quick cup of tea.
From Newport I followed Route 4 signs that took me on a real cross country trek down all sorts of rough tracks and across fields, ahd no idea where Iwas most of the time. Went through Goldcliff, Whiston, Redwick and then under the M4 and very close to the Second Severn Crossing but unfortunately this is for cars and trucks only with no cyleway at all-would have saved miles. Next it was into Caldicot and a lunch stop at the supermarket.
There is another transporter bridge in Newport but unfortunately it is not working as no one can afford to repair it. It looks identical to the Middlesborough bridge but I could only take photos today, what a shame. Stopped next to the bridge to chat to some anglers and then round the corner found a good roadside snack bar run by a mum and daughter where I had a quick cup of tea.
From Newport I followed Route 4 signs that took me on a real cross country trek down all sorts of rough tracks and across fields, ahd no idea where Iwas most of the time. Went through Goldcliff, Whiston, Redwick and then under the M4 and very close to the Second Severn Crossing but unfortunately this is for cars and trucks only with no cyleway at all-would have saved miles. Next it was into Caldicot and a lunch stop at the supermarket.
This was it then, a few miles on the minor roads and up the hill to Chepstow and back into England. I'd cycled over the Severn 2 years ago on my first Jogle so knew the way along the cycle paths to the bridge. There is something really exciting about cycling over these big bridges and this one is a real up and downer. Once over the other side I just followed the A403 all the way to Avonmouth. Two years ago I'd gone into Bristol and over the Clifton Suspension Bridge, now that is a high one. By pure luck it was Sunday today and so the A403 was empty but I think this would be a challenge on weekdays judging by the miles if industrial sites I went past.
When you get to Avonmouth the A403 goes under the motorway and travels inland so I really didn't know where to go next.I thought I was going to have to take a detour up thr Avon and then onto the A369 to get to Portishead. While standing there looking at my map around the corner came Eddy on his bike. You won't believe it but Eddy is a retired decorator who likes to keep fit by cycling and today he was just on his way back home to Portishead and so he said just follow me. He led me through some houses and then up a ramp onto a cycle path across the motorway bridge. From here it was down a few lanes and then across country on a narrow cyclepath that took us past fenced sites full of thousands of new vehicles waiting to be sent to garages. Eddy must have saved me miles and it was nearly all traffic free. This route is apparently used by lots of cyclists to get to work in Bristol.
Portishead was another of the previously industrial sites in Britain that is now a very well to do area full of waterfront accomodation and marinas. Where do all these boats go, I've got a feeling that many of them don't go very far at all. The Severn must be quite a dangerous place for the amateur yachtsman. But thank you Eddy for your help.
When you get to Avonmouth the A403 goes under the motorway and travels inland so I really didn't know where to go next.I thought I was going to have to take a detour up thr Avon and then onto the A369 to get to Portishead. While standing there looking at my map around the corner came Eddy on his bike. You won't believe it but Eddy is a retired decorator who likes to keep fit by cycling and today he was just on his way back home to Portishead and so he said just follow me. He led me through some houses and then up a ramp onto a cycle path across the motorway bridge. From here it was down a few lanes and then across country on a narrow cyclepath that took us past fenced sites full of thousands of new vehicles waiting to be sent to garages. Eddy must have saved me miles and it was nearly all traffic free. This route is apparently used by lots of cyclists to get to work in Bristol.
Portishead was another of the previously industrial sites in Britain that is now a very well to do area full of waterfront accomodation and marinas. Where do all these boats go, I've got a feeling that many of them don't go very far at all. The Severn must be quite a dangerous place for the amateur yachtsman. But thank you Eddy for your help.
The ride along the coast from Portishead to Clevedon was lovely if a bit hilly in places. You get wonderful views across the Severn estuary to Wales. It happened several times on the trip, where I was looking across just a few miles to where I was the day before but had cycled many miles to get here. In Clevedon I stopped to talk to a very friendly couple who were cleaning their car. There was no easy way to Weston, they told me, I had to go inland to Congresbury and then down the A370. It's all the fault of the River Yeo as all the minor roads west of Clevedon seem to come to a dead end. If you know different let me know.
The last few miles weren't great as the roads were quite busy and narrow but I eventually got to Weston-Super-Mare and found my B&B among dozens on the Locking Road. A quick shower and then into town and my landlord informed me there was a good Weatherspoons that he frequented. It was Sunday so the cheap roast was on with a couple of pints to wash it down. It had been a long day today and I was really tired.
Listened to a brilliant conversation between a man and lady. The man hadn't seen her for a while and he was enquiring after her health. He'd had a few and when she told him she hadn't been well he gave her lots of advice. She said she'd been to the doctor but his best advice was, "Doctors are no good, what you need is a hospital. Hospitals are much better than doctors".
By the way Weston, like many towns I stopped in, is blighted with boy racers. It was hurrendous the way they just flew up and down the main road into the town. Surely something should be done to stop it-and where do they get the money in the first place?
The last few miles weren't great as the roads were quite busy and narrow but I eventually got to Weston-Super-Mare and found my B&B among dozens on the Locking Road. A quick shower and then into town and my landlord informed me there was a good Weatherspoons that he frequented. It was Sunday so the cheap roast was on with a couple of pints to wash it down. It had been a long day today and I was really tired.
Listened to a brilliant conversation between a man and lady. The man hadn't seen her for a while and he was enquiring after her health. He'd had a few and when she told him she hadn't been well he gave her lots of advice. She said she'd been to the doctor but his best advice was, "Doctors are no good, what you need is a hospital. Hospitals are much better than doctors".
By the way Weston, like many towns I stopped in, is blighted with boy racers. It was hurrendous the way they just flew up and down the main road into the town. Surely something should be done to stop it-and where do they get the money in the first place?
Day 73: Weston-Super-Mare to Minehead 60 miles
After an excellent breakfast,including kippers, I went off down to the seafront and what a traditional seafront it is, complete with donkeys. It's also got it's own miniature London Eye. I left Weston on the main road but was soon able to take a right on country lanes to Brean. Really in holiday land now with caravans everywhere and miles of beaches. Poured with rain for a while so I sheltered in an amusement arcade before following the coast to Burnham. In Burnham I went into a bike shop as my gears were playing up slightly. Now my bike is prity standard and when the man put it up on the stand and said "Never seen gears like this before", I got a bit worried and made an excuse and took my leave.
From here it was through Highbridge and then up the A38 to Bridgewater. Is there a lovely town more blighted by traffic than Bridgewater. I have have been here by car before and it was just as I remembered queues of traffic everywhere, what a shame but when you look at the map and see the number of roads that converge here it's no wonder. A quick stop for lunch and then after a another stretch of busy A39 I was able to get back into the country and head for Hinckley Point.
From here it was through Highbridge and then up the A38 to Bridgewater. Is there a lovely town more blighted by traffic than Bridgewater. I have have been here by car before and it was just as I remembered queues of traffic everywhere, what a shame but when you look at the map and see the number of roads that converge here it's no wonder. A quick stop for lunch and then after a another stretch of busy A39 I was able to get back into the country and head for Hinckley Point.
Got totally lost in the maze of lanes but eventually saw the nuclear powerstation sticking up in the distance. Another downpour meant half an hour under a tree before making my way through lovely villages to Watchet. Apparently it used to be an important iron ore port with cargoes of ore from the Brendon Hills leaving for the South Wales steel works.
Now here's a little historical first as during the English Civil War it was here that an unique event occurred. A ship carrying Royalist reinforcements to Dunster Castle got stuck in the shallows as the tide went out. A troop of Roundhead cavalry rode out across the sand and captured it. This was the one and only time where a ship has been captured by men on horses. Should have bought a tide table.
Finally, about this lovely little place, there is a statue of the Ancient Mariner on the harbourside as this is where Coleridge wrote the poem. Perhaps it will come up in a quiz one day.
Now here's a little historical first as during the English Civil War it was here that an unique event occurred. A ship carrying Royalist reinforcements to Dunster Castle got stuck in the shallows as the tide went out. A troop of Roundhead cavalry rode out across the sand and captured it. This was the one and only time where a ship has been captured by men on horses. Should have bought a tide table.
Finally, about this lovely little place, there is a statue of the Ancient Mariner on the harbourside as this is where Coleridge wrote the poem. Perhaps it will come up in a quiz one day.
From Watchet it was only a short run along the B3191 to Blue Anchor where the steam railway makes it's last stop before Minehead. There is a lovely sweeping bay around to Minehead and I was looking forward to a gentle ride along the back of the beach to my destination. I couldn't see the start of the cycleway but on enquiring at the station the reason became clear-there isn't one. From Blue Anchor you have to go up a long drag to the main A39 and then follow this into along until the turn to the town. I just can't understand why no cycle route exists as surely this would be very popular in summer, or was I just given duff information?
Soon found my hostel and had a room to myself. There only seemed to be another one or two people in the building who were long term residents although later another guest arrived who I got to meet at breakfast next morning. The hostel was very good and recommended if in the area, it's called Base Lodge.
A huge Weatherspoons in Minehead and so another relaxing people watching evening followed.
Soon found my hostel and had a room to myself. There only seemed to be another one or two people in the building who were long term residents although later another guest arrived who I got to meet at breakfast next morning. The hostel was very good and recommended if in the area, it's called Base Lodge.
A huge Weatherspoons in Minehead and so another relaxing people watching evening followed.
Day 74: Minehead to Illfracombe 40 miles
Only 40 miles today but it included some of the toughest cycling of the whole trip and some of the best scenery but before I set off I had a very interesting breakfast chatting to Josephine.
Josephine had arrived late yesterday evening and was a teacher from Switzerland. She had come over by herself to spend three weeks improving her English and had ended up in this hostel because the Youth Hostel was full, I'd tried as well. She was understandably a bit worried as once I left she would be left on her own in a rambling old building- the owner was away and his daughter just seemed to pop in and lived miles away.
As part of her English course she had to undertake interviews of English people and so she interviewed me about my ride and gave me the website of her school. If you read this Josephine send me the website again as it disappeared when my computer hard drive crashed. i prosime yor englis is purfict by nowe.
Josephine had arrived late yesterday evening and was a teacher from Switzerland. She had come over by herself to spend three weeks improving her English and had ended up in this hostel because the Youth Hostel was full, I'd tried as well. She was understandably a bit worried as once I left she would be left on her own in a rambling old building- the owner was away and his daughter just seemed to pop in and lived miles away.
As part of her English course she had to undertake interviews of English people and so she interviewed me about my ride and gave me the website of her school. If you read this Josephine send me the website again as it disappeared when my computer hard drive crashed. i prosime yor englis is purfict by nowe.
Hills out of Minehead but nice quiet roads and then steeply downhill to Porlock where I popped into the cycle shop for route advice. Thought I would have to cycle up the famous main road hill but was told about the National trust toll road. Cycled down to Porlock Weir to have a look at the harbour and then found the toll house and road up through the woods. Beautiful route but the hill feels never ending and the surface was slippery as the rain had started to fall.
Once you rejoin the A39 the views over Exmoor are stunning and the road relatively quiet. After a few miles you reach the top of Countisbury Hill and I advise you to check your brakes before starting the descent. On my right were sheer drops which I was in danger of going over as I tried to admire the view ahead. The hill is couple of miles long and by the time I reached the bottom my wrists were aching applying the brakes.
Once you rejoin the A39 the views over Exmoor are stunning and the road relatively quiet. After a few miles you reach the top of Countisbury Hill and I advise you to check your brakes before starting the descent. On my right were sheer drops which I was in danger of going over as I tried to admire the view ahead. The hill is couple of miles long and by the time I reached the bottom my wrists were aching applying the brakes.
The first half of my day, from Minehead to Lynmouth had been superb but the second half, from lynmouth to Illfracombe was even better. I stopped in Lynmouth for an hour, had some chips and an ice cream and then thought it was time to tackle the inevitable hill out. I just happened to mention to someone that it was a pity I couldn't use the Lynmouth to Lynton cliff railway when they said they seen bikes on there before so off I went to enquire. Sure enough after a short wait I was allowed to jam my bike up at one end of the carriage and up we went. I know it's cheating but I count as another ferry ride and it was the closest road to the sea, it just happened to be a rail road.
Many of fellow passengers were looking a bit worried as we jerked higher and higher but if you had the stomach to look the views back down were brilliant.
Many of fellow passengers were looking a bit worried as we jerked higher and higher but if you had the stomach to look the views back down were brilliant.
Superb start to the afternoon and now, after a chat with a couple of friendly traffic wardens it was off down to The Valley of the Rocks and arguably the hardest and most beautiful 10 miles of the British coast. Lots of activity down in the Valley of the Rocks with parties of youngsters rock climbing and a car park full of visitors cars. This is a beautiful place and if you didn't know, full of wild goats. Over the years there have been several items on the local news about culling them and the uproar the suggestion caused.
Cycling on largely traffic free roads but with leg straining hill sit was on to Lee Abbey, a retreat, conference and education centre. If you require a place to unwind the location is stunning and on visiting the lovely cafe below the abbey is used by people from all over the world.
The cafe has a beautiful garden and nestles down in a sheltered vally but this of course means a really steep climb out. The road is superb in a masochistic sort of way and at times quite dangerous as only a flimsy wooden fence seperates you from sheer drops. After the long descent and long ascent past Woody Bay you go through Martinhoe, must be the shortest village in Britain. I went past the village sign welcoming me and a few seconds later coasted past the sign at the other end.
Eventually after miles of lovely flower lined lanes I rejoined the A399 and went down into Combe Martin where the first people I met were the two friendly traffic wardens I'd spoken to in Lynton. Combe Martin is a lovely little village but is busy with traffic and as I got there today the heavens opened but luckily I found a cafe and sheltered in there for a while until it stopped. I left Combe Martin on the main road but then took a chance and turned left onto quiet but very hilly lanes that took me nearly all the way to Ilfracombe.
Cycling on largely traffic free roads but with leg straining hill sit was on to Lee Abbey, a retreat, conference and education centre. If you require a place to unwind the location is stunning and on visiting the lovely cafe below the abbey is used by people from all over the world.
The cafe has a beautiful garden and nestles down in a sheltered vally but this of course means a really steep climb out. The road is superb in a masochistic sort of way and at times quite dangerous as only a flimsy wooden fence seperates you from sheer drops. After the long descent and long ascent past Woody Bay you go through Martinhoe, must be the shortest village in Britain. I went past the village sign welcoming me and a few seconds later coasted past the sign at the other end.
Eventually after miles of lovely flower lined lanes I rejoined the A399 and went down into Combe Martin where the first people I met were the two friendly traffic wardens I'd spoken to in Lynton. Combe Martin is a lovely little village but is busy with traffic and as I got there today the heavens opened but luckily I found a cafe and sheltered in there for a while until it stopped. I left Combe Martin on the main road but then took a chance and turned left onto quiet but very hilly lanes that took me nearly all the way to Ilfracombe.
When I got to Illfracombe I went round and round in circles asking for the way to Maplewood Backpackers. No one seemed to have heard of it until I saw a man standing outside his house with a rat on his shoulder. He went indoors, asked his wife and came out with instructions- he never mentioned the rat.
The hostel was a laid back place. I was sharing a room with a young surfing instructor and a man who worked shifts and came in at 3a.m. Apparently the day before there had been a bit of a row as he sleeps in late and youngsters in the room next door were playing loud music. I woke up when he came in, it was one of those dream moments where you sit up and stare at this stranger and can't for the life of you work out where you are. I went straight off again and never did get to speak to him.
No Weatherspoons in Illfracombe but there's one on its way. Only three days to go and almost back in Cornwall tomorrow.
The hostel was a laid back place. I was sharing a room with a young surfing instructor and a man who worked shifts and came in at 3a.m. Apparently the day before there had been a bit of a row as he sleeps in late and youngsters in the room next door were playing loud music. I woke up when he came in, it was one of those dream moments where you sit up and stare at this stranger and can't for the life of you work out where you are. I went straight off again and never did get to speak to him.
No Weatherspoons in Illfracombe but there's one on its way. Only three days to go and almost back in Cornwall tomorrow.
Day 75: Illfracombe to Hartland (Elmscott Hostel) 60 miles
Another lovely day's cycling and much of it traffic free on the Tarka Trail and in beautiful sunshine. Left Illfracombe on the main road but soon turned right and followed very hilly lanes to Mortenhoe and Woolacombe. In the carpark above Woolocombe Beach I met my surfing room mate from last night. He was laying out surfboards and wetsuits and waiting for a school party to arrive. At Woolocombe you can cycle throught he beach carpark and then follow a track just above the beach followed by hilly country lanes until you hit the B road down to Croyde Bay.
The beach was full of surfers and I presume many of them were school parties on summer term activity days. The weather was lovely today, not too hot and a cooling breeze which was mostly helping. The B3231 takes you all the way to Braunton and here the best cycling of the day begins.
From Braunton you pick up the off road Tarka Trail and to begin with this takes you all the way to Barnstaple following the banks of the River Taw. Traffic free, flat and with tremendous views across the estuary, absolutely superb for families and even in midweek today it was being well used.
The beach was full of surfers and I presume many of them were school parties on summer term activity days. The weather was lovely today, not too hot and a cooling breeze which was mostly helping. The B3231 takes you all the way to Braunton and here the best cycling of the day begins.
From Braunton you pick up the off road Tarka Trail and to begin with this takes you all the way to Barnstaple following the banks of the River Taw. Traffic free, flat and with tremendous views across the estuary, absolutely superb for families and even in midweek today it was being well used.
You cycle into Barnstaple along the river and come to the old bridge, quickly followed by the new bridge and it was here I chatted to Mark Laithwaite who was walking the south west coast path in support of water aid. He was trying to do it without money while still raising money and awareness. Later back home I saw him featured on the television. If you want to read more about his trip go to www.wateraid.org/uk .
As he went on his way I noticed on the other side of the road a bike shop and what a superb place this was. It's called the Bikeshed and as soon as I went in and told them about a few minor problems I was having they dropped everything and sorted everything out for me- and didn't charge a penny. Thank you very much Bikeshed.
After a stop for lunch it was off towards Instow where unfortunately the ferry to Appledore wasn't running-but they hope it will start again soon-and so this meant a longer ride along the cycleway to Bideford. Here the Tarka Trail goes inland towards Okehampton and as I said before this would make a superb family cycling holiday. At the disused station at Bideford there is a cafe in an old carriage but for me now it was down the ramp onto the busy bridge across the Torridge and then a hilly route through Northam to Appledore. Here I was met by yet another car full of screaming youngsters. Why do they do it?
The views from Instow across to Appledore had been lovely and now, as I sat on the riverside eating and drinking, the views back were equally as good. This is a beautiful area of the country.
As he went on his way I noticed on the other side of the road a bike shop and what a superb place this was. It's called the Bikeshed and as soon as I went in and told them about a few minor problems I was having they dropped everything and sorted everything out for me- and didn't charge a penny. Thank you very much Bikeshed.
After a stop for lunch it was off towards Instow where unfortunately the ferry to Appledore wasn't running-but they hope it will start again soon-and so this meant a longer ride along the cycleway to Bideford. Here the Tarka Trail goes inland towards Okehampton and as I said before this would make a superb family cycling holiday. At the disused station at Bideford there is a cafe in an old carriage but for me now it was down the ramp onto the busy bridge across the Torridge and then a hilly route through Northam to Appledore. Here I was met by yet another car full of screaming youngsters. Why do they do it?
The views from Instow across to Appledore had been lovely and now, as I sat on the riverside eating and drinking, the views back were equally as good. This is a beautiful area of the country.
Around the shore now to Westward Ho and some strange architecture on the seafront here- not really to my taste. Stopped at the fishing tackle shop for a chat and then a real leg stretcher of a hill up from the seafront to the A39. In fact it was all hills for the rest of the afternoon as I made my way past Clovelly- no I didn't go down the cobbles to the harbour- and then on to the B3248 into Hartland.
I've been to Hartland before and it really does feel really isolated and somehow different from anywhere else in North Devon. I like the place and there is a very good village shop where I stocked up with food and a couple of bottles of real ale for the evening as one of the locals told me the hostel was way out of the village. It was only a few miles down tiny lanes to the hostel but the hills were really hard at the end of the day.
Elmscott is a brilliant hostel. It used to be an official youth hostel and when they were going to close it the farmer next door bought it and did it up. Highly recommended if your travelling this way, it's now what they call an offiliated hostel. I had a room to myself tonight in the annex with only three others who were staying in the main building. Excellent small kitchen and dining room and a relaxing lounge. Apparently the night before there had been trouble involving youngsters and too much alcohol so I was glad I'd missed that.They'd been asked to leave that morning.
I've been to Hartland before and it really does feel really isolated and somehow different from anywhere else in North Devon. I like the place and there is a very good village shop where I stocked up with food and a couple of bottles of real ale for the evening as one of the locals told me the hostel was way out of the village. It was only a few miles down tiny lanes to the hostel but the hills were really hard at the end of the day.
Elmscott is a brilliant hostel. It used to be an official youth hostel and when they were going to close it the farmer next door bought it and did it up. Highly recommended if your travelling this way, it's now what they call an offiliated hostel. I had a room to myself tonight in the annex with only three others who were staying in the main building. Excellent small kitchen and dining room and a relaxing lounge. Apparently the night before there had been trouble involving youngsters and too much alcohol so I was glad I'd missed that.They'd been asked to leave that morning.
Day 76: Hartland to Newquay 71 miles
In hostels there is a daily morning ritual carried out by those on bikes and walking-the weather forecast. Really it's a British way of life: how many weather forecasts are there in a day on radio and televisions? Most hostels put a print out on the noticeboard and then of course you have to check if that was right by listening to the radio. Now if you still don't like the sound of that one you go to the TV lounge to watch the national, followed by the local forecast. Today no matter how many forecasts we studied not one of them predicted a dry day- they all predicted torrential rain.
The sun was shining outside, they must be wrong. Perhaps if I cycled quickly I'd be in Newquay before it started. Now cycling quickly to Bude from Elmscott is not really on as I soon found out. The lanes down to Welcombe and then up to the Atlantic Highway really are up and down and I don't think it would matter which way you went, the ups would dominate your memory. It's beautiful, peaceful and more or less traffic free but hard especially before you've even warmed up.
The sun was shining outside, they must be wrong. Perhaps if I cycled quickly I'd be in Newquay before it started. Now cycling quickly to Bude from Elmscott is not really on as I soon found out. The lanes down to Welcombe and then up to the Atlantic Highway really are up and down and I don't think it would matter which way you went, the ups would dominate your memory. It's beautiful, peaceful and more or less traffic free but hard especially before you've even warmed up.
Once on the Atlantic Highway, it was head down and pedal like mad towards Bude. This was definately a losing battle especially as I was cycling west, which was where the rain was coming from. As I entered Bude the sun disappeared and the clouds rolled in. A stop in a cafe for a bacon roll by which time it was spitting. Past the Bude Canal and up the hill and down to Widemouth Bay, now the rain started. Ran into the public loos to put on the waterproofs-a quick retreat as in my haste found it was full of ladies.
The rain started and it never stopped for the rest of the day, it was torrential and the wettest day of the whole three months. The hills from Widemouth to Newquay were some of the steepest and most frequent of the whole trip.
If you ever do cycle this way you are in for a treat. The scenery around Millook, Boscastle and Crackington Haven is wild and the hills are a real challenge. A few years ago before getting into serious cycling I cycled along this coast on a mountain bike with it's very low gears. I remember Millook Hill defeating me that time but now with over 4000 miles of training in my legs plus my other trips and even with luggage, I got to the top. I even got a round of applause from a family sitting in their car. The rain was so heavy by now the hills became rivers and so I was literally cycling up a stream. I was absolutely drowned.
When you're this wet the last thing you feel like doing is stopping because you just get cold. Stopped in Boscastle for a sandwich and a couple of doughnuts and then on the switchback roads through Tintagel and past Trebarwith. Next it was up onto the B3314. In the winter I spend quite a lot of time fishing around here at Port Gaverne and Port Quin and of course Doc Martin is filmed in Port Isaac. Lovely coastline but as I was cold and wet and because I've been here many times it wasn't very pleasant for me today.
Alison phoned for me and luckilly despite the weather the ferry at Rock was running today, the last of my trip-28 of them I think. It was still pouring as I stood waiting for the boat to come across the Camel from Padstow. One group waiting with me were "posh boys" that have given Rock such a bad name of late. In the summer parents of public school children seem to use Rock as cresh for their darlings. The youngsters spend six weeks getting drunk and keeping the locals awake. As the ferry lowered it's ramp the "posh boys" charged ahead of those that had been waiting longer and filled up the limited inside space. Women and children-and me- were left to stand in the rain. If I could have been bothered I'd have given them a mouthful. The posh kids in Rock had no manners and later, the drunk kids in Newquay had no sense.
The rain started and it never stopped for the rest of the day, it was torrential and the wettest day of the whole three months. The hills from Widemouth to Newquay were some of the steepest and most frequent of the whole trip.
If you ever do cycle this way you are in for a treat. The scenery around Millook, Boscastle and Crackington Haven is wild and the hills are a real challenge. A few years ago before getting into serious cycling I cycled along this coast on a mountain bike with it's very low gears. I remember Millook Hill defeating me that time but now with over 4000 miles of training in my legs plus my other trips and even with luggage, I got to the top. I even got a round of applause from a family sitting in their car. The rain was so heavy by now the hills became rivers and so I was literally cycling up a stream. I was absolutely drowned.
When you're this wet the last thing you feel like doing is stopping because you just get cold. Stopped in Boscastle for a sandwich and a couple of doughnuts and then on the switchback roads through Tintagel and past Trebarwith. Next it was up onto the B3314. In the winter I spend quite a lot of time fishing around here at Port Gaverne and Port Quin and of course Doc Martin is filmed in Port Isaac. Lovely coastline but as I was cold and wet and because I've been here many times it wasn't very pleasant for me today.
Alison phoned for me and luckilly despite the weather the ferry at Rock was running today, the last of my trip-28 of them I think. It was still pouring as I stood waiting for the boat to come across the Camel from Padstow. One group waiting with me were "posh boys" that have given Rock such a bad name of late. In the summer parents of public school children seem to use Rock as cresh for their darlings. The youngsters spend six weeks getting drunk and keeping the locals awake. As the ferry lowered it's ramp the "posh boys" charged ahead of those that had been waiting longer and filled up the limited inside space. Women and children-and me- were left to stand in the rain. If I could have been bothered I'd have given them a mouthful. The posh kids in Rock had no manners and later, the drunk kids in Newquay had no sense.
2009 was the wettest summer for years and Padstow was full of visitors looking very miserable and children having tantrums. I relly feel for people who wait all year for their holiday and then are faced with a week of wind and rain. Strangely enough I only had three really bad days during the whole trip. I got soaked on the Isle of Wight, drowned near Cardiff and washed away today. Heat had been more of a problem and especially up the east coast and in Scotland it was dry day after day after day.
As it was so wet and I'd got really cold waiting for the ferry it was good to have a couple of big hills out of Padstow and up into St Merryn where I found a lovely deli/bakery for a cup of tea and a bun. The B3276 through Porthcothnan, Trenance and Mawgan Porth sooned warmed me up and at times I couldn't help laughing out loud as the the water poured down the hills and cars covered me with muddy spray. Eventually I went down the steep hill to Watergate up the zig zag hill and finally down to Porth. One last rise and I was in guesthouse city- better known as the main road into Newquay.
Alison had found me a fantastic B&B where they gave me a beautiful ensuite room with a balcony. The balcony had a roof, so I was able to hang my waterproofs out to dry a bit. Avalon Guesthouse- www.avalonnewquay.co.uk- has it's rooms named after Knights of the Round Table and I was in Galahad room. Standing in a hot shower was lovely and the rain eased as I made my way to Weatherspoons for an interesting evening.
As it was so wet and I'd got really cold waiting for the ferry it was good to have a couple of big hills out of Padstow and up into St Merryn where I found a lovely deli/bakery for a cup of tea and a bun. The B3276 through Porthcothnan, Trenance and Mawgan Porth sooned warmed me up and at times I couldn't help laughing out loud as the the water poured down the hills and cars covered me with muddy spray. Eventually I went down the steep hill to Watergate up the zig zag hill and finally down to Porth. One last rise and I was in guesthouse city- better known as the main road into Newquay.
Alison had found me a fantastic B&B where they gave me a beautiful ensuite room with a balcony. The balcony had a roof, so I was able to hang my waterproofs out to dry a bit. Avalon Guesthouse- www.avalonnewquay.co.uk- has it's rooms named after Knights of the Round Table and I was in Galahad room. Standing in a hot shower was lovely and the rain eased as I made my way to Weatherspoons for an interesting evening.
Newquay is an interesting place in the summer- (in the winter when I come here fishing it's empty) full of groups of sunburnt young people already much the worse for drink. The girls are wearing very little and the boys are trying to impress the girls with bouts of stupid behaviour. On the way into town I nipped into a small supermarket almost to be knocked over by a young man legging it up the street carrying a pack of lager. Nobody from the shop gave chase as the young manageress said "We can't be expected to work miracles."
There has been a lot on the local news lately about the residents of Newquay trying to reclaim their town as it has now got a reputation as the stag night capital of Britain. Visit in the winter unless you are coming for the late night club life.
Weatherspoons was already crowded and all the tables were taken. On one table there were only two men and so I asked if I could share and this turned out to be a lucky move as I had a pleasant evening with Mark and Bill. Bill was over 80 and Mark was his son in law. They were over from Australia, largely to spend time looking at and travelling aboard steam trains. I think they were off to Bodmin steam railway the next day. Very nice people and they didn't seem to hate Poms too much. By the time we left, the pub was packed and getting noisier by the minute.
Alison had been tempted to drive up to Newquay to spend the evening with me but I felt I wanted to keep tomorrow as the finish day where I would see everyone again. It was going to be quite strange as cycling day after day had become a lifestyle.
There has been a lot on the local news lately about the residents of Newquay trying to reclaim their town as it has now got a reputation as the stag night capital of Britain. Visit in the winter unless you are coming for the late night club life.
Weatherspoons was already crowded and all the tables were taken. On one table there were only two men and so I asked if I could share and this turned out to be a lucky move as I had a pleasant evening with Mark and Bill. Bill was over 80 and Mark was his son in law. They were over from Australia, largely to spend time looking at and travelling aboard steam trains. I think they were off to Bodmin steam railway the next day. Very nice people and they didn't seem to hate Poms too much. By the time we left, the pub was packed and getting noisier by the minute.
Alison had been tempted to drive up to Newquay to spend the evening with me but I felt I wanted to keep tomorrow as the finish day where I would see everyone again. It was going to be quite strange as cycling day after day had become a lifestyle.
Day 77: Newquay-Lands End -Penzance 70 miles -The final day.
Well here it was, the final day. My thoughts were very mixed. I'd enjoyed the trip so much I didn't want it to end but on the other hand I wanted to get home to Alison, the dog and the comforts of my own house. Before leaving Newquay I had a lovely breakfast at Avalon Guesthouse where two of my fellow guests turned out to be relations of the owners. We had a good chat about my trip and their holiday and they were good enough to sponsor my ride so thank for a great stay Avalon.
The rain had stopped and the sun was out but yesterday's storms had left a south westerly gale behind and I was cycling straight into it all the way down to lands End.
From Newquay you have to go inland and take the main road towards Redruth with a few hills to go up and down before being able to take a right and head down into Perranporth. Once you hit the coast again it's really non stop hills, out of Perranporth, through Porthtowan,St Agnes and Portreath. These are lovely coastal villages although these days much more commercialised due to their surfing popularity. There are plenty of cafes along this route and today I stopped in St Agnes although usually when I'm up this way cycling I use the little cafe right on the beach at Portreath. This route is a much better way than the A30 for end to enders really. It is a bit hillier but the scenery more than makes up for it.
You leave Porteath up an Alpine type hill and then comes a great piece of road right along the top of the North Cliffs. It is very exposed and between Portreath and Hells Mouth I was actually blown off my bike twice and ended up in the hedge. At Hells Mouth the road is right along the cliff edge and there is a very good cafe next to the road.
A short climb from the cafe and you are met by stunning views across to St Ives and then a long downhill towards Gwithian. Its worth taking a short detour to your right before crossing the first bridge. A hundred yards takes you past an excellent cafe and then to the beach with superb views of Godrevy Lighthouse. Ignore the road to the white building-take the one before it.
The rain had stopped and the sun was out but yesterday's storms had left a south westerly gale behind and I was cycling straight into it all the way down to lands End.
From Newquay you have to go inland and take the main road towards Redruth with a few hills to go up and down before being able to take a right and head down into Perranporth. Once you hit the coast again it's really non stop hills, out of Perranporth, through Porthtowan,St Agnes and Portreath. These are lovely coastal villages although these days much more commercialised due to their surfing popularity. There are plenty of cafes along this route and today I stopped in St Agnes although usually when I'm up this way cycling I use the little cafe right on the beach at Portreath. This route is a much better way than the A30 for end to enders really. It is a bit hillier but the scenery more than makes up for it.
You leave Porteath up an Alpine type hill and then comes a great piece of road right along the top of the North Cliffs. It is very exposed and between Portreath and Hells Mouth I was actually blown off my bike twice and ended up in the hedge. At Hells Mouth the road is right along the cliff edge and there is a very good cafe next to the road.
A short climb from the cafe and you are met by stunning views across to St Ives and then a long downhill towards Gwithian. Its worth taking a short detour to your right before crossing the first bridge. A hundred yards takes you past an excellent cafe and then to the beach with superb views of Godrevy Lighthouse. Ignore the road to the white building-take the one before it.
From Gwithian its along drag up and then an even longer slope down to Hayle. It was bit strange for me really as in Hayle I'm only 7 miles from home here but if I follow the coast its another 30 miles or so. Again there are plenty of cafes in Hayle before you make your way along the causeway and turn right for Lelant, Carbis Bay and down to St Ives. If you haven't been here before it really is a place to stay the night and have a look around but I suggest you avoid August if you can.
Two miles uphill brings you to a very famous stretch of road. It always features in famous peoples lists of favourite drives. There are so many photo opportunities as you zig zag up and down but today I was running late due to the wind in my face and the fact that I've cycled it hundreds of times meant I forgot to take some shots.
Stop at Zennor for a look in the church to hear about the mermaid of Zennor-it's a true story! Good hostel with a cafe in Zennor and a pub-another good place to spend the night.
Two miles uphill brings you to a very famous stretch of road. It always features in famous peoples lists of favourite drives. There are so many photo opportunities as you zig zag up and down but today I was running late due to the wind in my face and the fact that I've cycled it hundreds of times meant I forgot to take some shots.
Stop at Zennor for a look in the church to hear about the mermaid of Zennor-it's a true story! Good hostel with a cafe in Zennor and a pub-another good place to spend the night.
I had told Alison that I would make my triumphant return on Penzance Promenade at 5.30 and earlier in the day it felt as though I was going to be early. However as the day went on it soon became obvious I was actually going to be late. The road from St Ives to St Just is superb but also open to the elements and with the gale in my face and hill after hill the time was getting on.
At 5.30 I reached Lands End the normal finishing place for these kind of rides but I still had 10 miles to go. Once I'd turned the corner and headed east the wind was at my back and the excitement of finally completing the 4600 mile circuit kept me going. As I approached Lamorna progress came to a sudden halt as a herd of cows were going back to the farm for milking. My phone went as Alison, along with a small band of well wishers, started to worry about my whereabouts. The cows turned off into the farm and it was the last few miles down into Mousehole and along the shore through Newlyn and here I was appearing from the other end of the promenade. Three months ago I'd set off from here going east and now after 85 days I reappeared as if by magic. It was strange feeling and as with all these challenges a mixture of elation and deflation.
Would I do it again-you bet. If you can spare the time please do it and if not in one go do a section each year. It certainly makes the Coast programme on BBC a lot more interesting.
Now I bore Alison with "I cyled along that seawall." or "I sat on that beach and had my lunch".
I keep being asked which was the best bit but I honestly can't decide but I can say that the coast of Britain is beautiful and so varied that each day was a different experience. Every part of England and Wales has youngsters hanging out of cars and screaming at cyclists-in Scotland they seem to have better things to do-and every part of Britain has a rubbish problem-how can people just dump things by the side of the road? I envy the older cyclist I'd met in Cumbria who had completed this trip in 1951 how quiet the roads must have been.
Next I think I'll do it the other way round to see what I missed behind me!
At 5.30 I reached Lands End the normal finishing place for these kind of rides but I still had 10 miles to go. Once I'd turned the corner and headed east the wind was at my back and the excitement of finally completing the 4600 mile circuit kept me going. As I approached Lamorna progress came to a sudden halt as a herd of cows were going back to the farm for milking. My phone went as Alison, along with a small band of well wishers, started to worry about my whereabouts. The cows turned off into the farm and it was the last few miles down into Mousehole and along the shore through Newlyn and here I was appearing from the other end of the promenade. Three months ago I'd set off from here going east and now after 85 days I reappeared as if by magic. It was strange feeling and as with all these challenges a mixture of elation and deflation.
Would I do it again-you bet. If you can spare the time please do it and if not in one go do a section each year. It certainly makes the Coast programme on BBC a lot more interesting.
Now I bore Alison with "I cyled along that seawall." or "I sat on that beach and had my lunch".
I keep being asked which was the best bit but I honestly can't decide but I can say that the coast of Britain is beautiful and so varied that each day was a different experience. Every part of England and Wales has youngsters hanging out of cars and screaming at cyclists-in Scotland they seem to have better things to do-and every part of Britain has a rubbish problem-how can people just dump things by the side of the road? I envy the older cyclist I'd met in Cumbria who had completed this trip in 1951 how quiet the roads must have been.
Next I think I'll do it the other way round to see what I missed behind me!