Day 53: Newton Stewart to Dumfries 75 miles
It was dark and drizzly as I left Newton Stewart on the A75. By the main road it was 47 miles the signpost said but along the coast it was going to be a lot more.Down through Gatehouse of Fleet it was largely flat and then after 15miles a convenient roadside cafe called The Teapot. By the time I turned off right onto the minor road to Borgue the rain had stopped.
This route was lovely and as it met the shores of Kircudbright Bay the views were magnificent. I passed four young people walking painfully slowly along the road carrying mountains of baggage. I presume they were Duke of Ed students but they must have missed the lesson on travelling light. A mile further on I saw another group sitting in a car park next to a school bus and they looked a lot fresher.
As I cycled up the B727 the first glimpses of Kirkudbright were superb and on reaching the town I was very impressed-what a lovely place and one to visit again in the future. Across the River Dee and your first view is of MacClellan's Castle that dominates the main street. The shallow harbour was full of fishing and pleasure boats and a beautiful wooden statue of a mother and daughter, waiting for the father's return from sea, looked out over the boats. There were several cafes and I relaxed at one with outside tables and talked to a lovely family here on holiday.
This route was lovely and as it met the shores of Kircudbright Bay the views were magnificent. I passed four young people walking painfully slowly along the road carrying mountains of baggage. I presume they were Duke of Ed students but they must have missed the lesson on travelling light. A mile further on I saw another group sitting in a car park next to a school bus and they looked a lot fresher.
As I cycled up the B727 the first glimpses of Kirkudbright were superb and on reaching the town I was very impressed-what a lovely place and one to visit again in the future. Across the River Dee and your first view is of MacClellan's Castle that dominates the main street. The shallow harbour was full of fishing and pleasure boats and a beautiful wooden statue of a mother and daughter, waiting for the father's return from sea, looked out over the boats. There were several cafes and I relaxed at one with outside tables and talked to a lovely family here on holiday.
Having started the morning in drizzle by the time I set off on the next loop to Dalbeattie it was a scorcher of a day and it was getting hillier by the mile. Just before Auchencairn there was a viewpoint with a ghostly scene as dozens of wind turbines could just be seen through the haze on the Solway Firth-and I could almost pick out England. Auchencairn and Palnackie promised ice creams but everything in both places was closed.
Dalbeattie was more of a working town than Kirkudbright but the ladies in the takeaway sandwich shop were very cheerful and friendly. From here to Dumfries was 14 miles by the A711 but I had one more loop to do and that was 26 miles-It was so hot I was tempted to cheat but I didn't. The next few miles to Southerness was a real up and down challenge but it was brilliant cycling country.Miles of golden sands and from Southerness I had lovely views right across to Cumbria.
New Abbey is a beautiful and historic village dominated by Sweetheart Abbey. The abbey was established in about 1270 by Lady Devorgilla in memory of her much loved husband, John Balliol. She also provided money to set up an Oxford college in his name and of course this has long outlasted the abbey. More important to me today was that right next to the abbey was an award winning tearooms and that's where I spent the next half hour before the final push to Dumfries.
Dalbeattie was more of a working town than Kirkudbright but the ladies in the takeaway sandwich shop were very cheerful and friendly. From here to Dumfries was 14 miles by the A711 but I had one more loop to do and that was 26 miles-It was so hot I was tempted to cheat but I didn't. The next few miles to Southerness was a real up and down challenge but it was brilliant cycling country.Miles of golden sands and from Southerness I had lovely views right across to Cumbria.
New Abbey is a beautiful and historic village dominated by Sweetheart Abbey. The abbey was established in about 1270 by Lady Devorgilla in memory of her much loved husband, John Balliol. She also provided money to set up an Oxford college in his name and of course this has long outlasted the abbey. More important to me today was that right next to the abbey was an award winning tearooms and that's where I spent the next half hour before the final push to Dumfries.
My B&B in Dumfries was great and Carol even told me to give her all my dirty clothes and she would wash them.
I went into town and straight to Weatherspoons for food and then on to Cavens that Carol's husband had recommended. Dumfries pub of the year 06/07/08/09- lovely selection of real ales in both pubs- I was feeling so relaxed that I made the snap decision to stay two nights as I hadn't had a day off for over two weeks. My single room wasn't free the next night so Carol moved me into a ensuite family room at no extra charge, what a lovely lady. www.lindeanguesthouse.co.uk Go and stay there, I hope to again one day.
I went into town and straight to Weatherspoons for food and then on to Cavens that Carol's husband had recommended. Dumfries pub of the year 06/07/08/09- lovely selection of real ales in both pubs- I was feeling so relaxed that I made the snap decision to stay two nights as I hadn't had a day off for over two weeks. My single room wasn't free the next night so Carol moved me into a ensuite family room at no extra charge, what a lovely lady. www.lindeanguesthouse.co.uk Go and stay there, I hope to again one day.
It was good to wake up and have a leisurely breakfast knowing I had nothing pressing to do. Pushed my bike into town to an old fashioned bike shop that had been recommended. My gears were starting to think for a while before changing and so a good oiling and cable adjustment was needed. The 67 year old owner had run the shop for 30 years and the inside was older than that with dark brown wood shelves and cupboards and stock scattered around but I bet knew where everything was. He had put the shop up for sale at £67,000 and was hoping to retire but will anyone take it on I wonder. He kindly agreed to drop everything and give the bike a quick service, no wonder B&Q prefer the older generation.
While he was doing that I went next door for a haircut that was long overdue. The barber was reading the paper and turned out to be a 44 year old Serbian with an interesting line in broken English hairdresser chat.
"I hate to cut the hair of young people as they have nothing to say. You older people are so much more interesting."
"I hate Americans because they bomb my country."
"Of all the places in the world my ambition one day is to visit Eastbourne!"
I told him the place was full of older folk, but of course that was part of the appeal for him. As He chatted his scissors flew around my head. This was the first time I'd been to a barbers for over 30 years and I found the experience interesting but quite frightening and when he asked about trimming my eyebrows I gave it a miss.
After a wander around town for coffee and a bit of sightseeing I went to the library to put an update on the CTC forum and then went back for a nap before another relaxing evening in The Robert the Bruce (Weatherspoons). I really liked Dumfries and to me the great appeal of this trip was the variety of places I stopped at, a new one everyday.
While he was doing that I went next door for a haircut that was long overdue. The barber was reading the paper and turned out to be a 44 year old Serbian with an interesting line in broken English hairdresser chat.
"I hate to cut the hair of young people as they have nothing to say. You older people are so much more interesting."
"I hate Americans because they bomb my country."
"Of all the places in the world my ambition one day is to visit Eastbourne!"
I told him the place was full of older folk, but of course that was part of the appeal for him. As He chatted his scissors flew around my head. This was the first time I'd been to a barbers for over 30 years and I found the experience interesting but quite frightening and when he asked about trimming my eyebrows I gave it a miss.
After a wander around town for coffee and a bit of sightseeing I went to the library to put an update on the CTC forum and then went back for a nap before another relaxing evening in The Robert the Bruce (Weatherspoons). I really liked Dumfries and to me the great appeal of this trip was the variety of places I stopped at, a new one everyday.
Day 54: Dumfries to Bousted Hill(on the English side of the Solway Firth) 59 miles
A beautiful sunny morning as I set off for England. I'd cycled through Dumfries 2 years ago on my first end to end and so I knew I had to head out past the hospital on the far side of town. Once I'd found that it was a different route this time on the B725 down to Glencaple and around to Bankend. The scenery was superb and as I cycled along met an end to ender who was on his way north and tonight was stopping in the Porridge House at St Johns Town of Dalry, exactly where I'd stayed 2 years ago. This meeting was soon followed by a chat with half a dozen local cyclists- one on a recumbent- who overtook me but slowed for a chat about my trip.A lovely start to the day.
A little further down the road I stopped at Brow Well which had a reputation as a spa and had been visited by a sick Robbie Burns in July 1796 on the advice of his doctor who also told him to bathe in the Solway.He apparently used to wade out to his shoulders everyday. There used to be an inn nearby and Robbie stayed for a month. He went back to his family in Dumfries by boat but unfortunately still died, at the age of 37, a few days later.
A little further down the road I stopped at Brow Well which had a reputation as a spa and had been visited by a sick Robbie Burns in July 1796 on the advice of his doctor who also told him to bathe in the Solway.He apparently used to wade out to his shoulders everyday. There used to be an inn nearby and Robbie stayed for a month. He went back to his family in Dumfries by boat but unfortunately still died, at the age of 37, a few days later.
From Bankend it was back to the coast at Ruthwell and then the little lane that takes you down to Queensberry Bay Holiday Park. If you are cycling the coast and camping this would be a wonderful place to stay with a shop on site and open views right over to England. I stopped for coffee and to admire the view www.queensberrybay.co.uk
Alongside the golfcourse and into Powfoot which was a charming village of houses looking out to sea. From here you could follow the river right into Annan. Had lunch at some outside tables chatting to two cyclists who were following route 7 to Glasgow. Annan was much nicer than I'd remembered when we rushed through in 2007.
Alongside the golfcourse and into Powfoot which was a charming village of houses looking out to sea. From here you could follow the river right into Annan. Had lunch at some outside tables chatting to two cyclists who were following route 7 to Glasgow. Annan was much nicer than I'd remembered when we rushed through in 2007.
From Annan i followed route 7 signs that brought me out next to Gretna Football Stadium and then traffic free to the Old Blacksmith Shop where i got someone to take a photo of me with the resident piper-I also phoned Alison so she could hear the music live from Scotland. The shopping complex here is enormous, the way this has developed as a tourist attraction is amazing. There were coachloads of visitors with many of them Japanese and American. It is a bit tacky if the truth be told.
The last time I cycled from here to Carlisle I'd taken my life in my hands and cycled straight down the main road but this is now a motorway so that's not an option. From the Blacksmiths I took a left and after a few hundred yards found myself at the border checkpoint and after a quick photostop entered England. It had taken me 30 days to cycle the coast of Scotland and I enjoyed almost every minute.
Following the road from the border you soon join up with the A6071 and a right turn here will take you back to the roundabout onto the motorway where you can pick up a service road that takes you alongside the motorway all the way to Carlisle. I was convinced I'd be able to cut across north of Carlisle but after going round in circles and ending up back at the same place asked at a post office I'd passed on the first cicuit and they confirmed I had to go right into Carlsle and then out past the castle to Burgh by Sands. A road north of Carlisle is under construction but work had stopped due to the recession, it will save miles in the future. I was staying tonight at a hostel on a farm at Bousted Hill and what a fantastic place and area this turned out to be.
The hostel was a farm building with the original concrete floor and just a collection of bunkbeds and limited but adequate cooking facilities. The lady who ran it gave me two free range eggs, that I hard boiled for tomorrow and supplied a sleeping bag. I was the only one staying and it was such a peaceful place and all for £8. She even offered to drive me to the Greyhound- a pub I'd passed in Burgh by Sands- but this was such a peaceful place I just wanted to relax.
The roads here are liable to flooding and are dead straight and flat. Acoss the water I could see where I'd started from today and she told me that a railway bridge crossed from nearby to Dumfries until just before the war. This was such an atmospheric place to stay and the sunset was superb. It's called Hillside Farm Bunkhouse.
Following the road from the border you soon join up with the A6071 and a right turn here will take you back to the roundabout onto the motorway where you can pick up a service road that takes you alongside the motorway all the way to Carlisle. I was convinced I'd be able to cut across north of Carlisle but after going round in circles and ending up back at the same place asked at a post office I'd passed on the first cicuit and they confirmed I had to go right into Carlsle and then out past the castle to Burgh by Sands. A road north of Carlisle is under construction but work had stopped due to the recession, it will save miles in the future. I was staying tonight at a hostel on a farm at Bousted Hill and what a fantastic place and area this turned out to be.
The hostel was a farm building with the original concrete floor and just a collection of bunkbeds and limited but adequate cooking facilities. The lady who ran it gave me two free range eggs, that I hard boiled for tomorrow and supplied a sleeping bag. I was the only one staying and it was such a peaceful place and all for £8. She even offered to drive me to the Greyhound- a pub I'd passed in Burgh by Sands- but this was such a peaceful place I just wanted to relax.
The roads here are liable to flooding and are dead straight and flat. Acoss the water I could see where I'd started from today and she told me that a railway bridge crossed from nearby to Dumfries until just before the war. This was such an atmospheric place to stay and the sunset was superb. It's called Hillside Farm Bunkhouse.
Day 55: Bousted Hill to St Bees 64 miles
After a relaxing night it was off on the flat straight roads towards Bowness on Solway, Port Carlisle and then Silloth. Now I told Alson it wasn't far to Silloth but it was double my estimate as the road twisted and turned around the coast. Flat land meant wind exposure and it was in my face for a good part of the morning but this is certainly an out of the way and fascinating coast. There were disused wartime airfields and huge radio masts sticking up into the sky.
From the signs it appears that the roads are often under water but at this time of year sheep and cattle were grazing right down to the shore. To my right Dumfries was just across the water and I passed the remnants of the railway bridge and further along the road signs of the railway itself.
There is a good Hadrians Wall coast to coast cycle route that I was accidently following and is worth thinking about if you want to do a coast to coast. You can start from Bowness or further south at Whitehaven. I also saw a couple of salmon netsman trudging out onto the mud, I saw this in a few places on my trip.
From the signs it appears that the roads are often under water but at this time of year sheep and cattle were grazing right down to the shore. To my right Dumfries was just across the water and I passed the remnants of the railway bridge and further along the road signs of the railway itself.
There is a good Hadrians Wall coast to coast cycle route that I was accidently following and is worth thinking about if you want to do a coast to coast. You can start from Bowness or further south at Whitehaven. I also saw a couple of salmon netsman trudging out onto the mud, I saw this in a few places on my trip.
As I've already said this area feels really out of the way and I found the morning really interesting. At lunchtime I came to Abbey Town and chatted to the old chap in the village shop who had been there for 50 years. Abbey Town was an important historical place due to Holme Cultram Abbey founded in 1150 by monks from Melrose when the village was actually in Scotland. There used to be two railway staions until the loss of the railways and apparently five pubs but today as I passed through it was a quiet but inviting place.
Silloth was also fascinating with dead straight roads and blocks of buildings.On the way into the town you travel alongside the huge disused RAF Silloth airfield. I've since found out that Silloth was a planned town built in the 1860s at the terminus of the railway to give factory workers from Carlisle easy access to a seaside holiday.The mainstreet is seperated from the sea by a huge grassy area used for all sorts of leisure activities. Today there is still a small but busy docks with a very tricky entrance for the ships. A market was being held alongside the grass area during my visit.
Silloth was also fascinating with dead straight roads and blocks of buildings.On the way into the town you travel alongside the huge disused RAF Silloth airfield. I've since found out that Silloth was a planned town built in the 1860s at the terminus of the railway to give factory workers from Carlisle easy access to a seaside holiday.The mainstreet is seperated from the sea by a huge grassy area used for all sorts of leisure activities. Today there is still a small but busy docks with a very tricky entrance for the ships. A market was being held alongside the grass area during my visit.
The morning route was quite complicated and wound around in all directions but the afternoon was just due south but no less interesting for that.The B5300 took me along the top of the never ending beaches all the way to Maryport.
I stopped and talked to another angler on the beach-while eating my free hard boiled eggs- and then continued into Allanby. The pub has a blue plaque as apparently Charles Dickens stayed here for one night in a September in the 18th century. I reckon all the places I stayed at should have a blue plaque.Found a superb cafe looking over the sea but oh dear they were so miserable, I was quite depressed. Hate to think what they're like by the end of the season.
I stopped and talked to another angler on the beach-while eating my free hard boiled eggs- and then continued into Allanby. The pub has a blue plaque as apparently Charles Dickens stayed here for one night in a September in the 18th century. I reckon all the places I stayed at should have a blue plaque.Found a superb cafe looking over the sea but oh dear they were so miserable, I was quite depressed. Hate to think what they're like by the end of the season.
Maryport was one of many places I visited where the harbour has been changed out of all recognition. Where once there were fishing boats and wharehouse type buildings we now have yachts and ,marinas and flats. Workington on my flying visit was not so appealing as I was shouted at by boy racers and the cycleway was strewn with rubbish-mind you I was just passing through so I may well just have been unlucky. A local cyclist, on his way home from work, guided me onto a superb cycle route down to Whitehaven.
The route went through tunnels and took right along the cliff edge into Whithaven where I went out to the end of the pier and chatted-plus gave advice- to some young anglers. They had all the gear but no real idea of how to use it.
Whitehaven was very interesting and a local ex miner gave me a potted history. From the pier you can go up over the hill past some more excellent sculptures and cycle past the remains of old pitheads including King Pit which in 1793 was the deepest in the world at 160 fathoms. The last pit to close was Haig Pit where the workings went 5 miles out under the sea.
The route went through tunnels and took right along the cliff edge into Whithaven where I went out to the end of the pier and chatted-plus gave advice- to some young anglers. They had all the gear but no real idea of how to use it.
Whitehaven was very interesting and a local ex miner gave me a potted history. From the pier you can go up over the hill past some more excellent sculptures and cycle past the remains of old pitheads including King Pit which in 1793 was the deepest in the world at 160 fathoms. The last pit to close was Haig Pit where the workings went 5 miles out under the sea.
I got a bit lost on the path above Whitehaven but after a backtrack found the main road again and then a right turn onto little lanes that were hilly but took me all the way to St Bees. My B&B was right down by the beach and an excellent find by Alison from home. (Tomlin Guesthouse).
A quick shower and sock and cycle short washing and it was a 15 minute walk back inland to St Bees village. Found a good pub with food and real ale-can't remember name but on right hand side halfway up village main street. St. Bees has yet another Colin Telfer sculpture, this time of St Bega arriving from Ireland. Colin Telfer has his workshop in Maryport and used to be a miner. When he lost his job he enrolled in night school to do signwriting but moved into clay sculptures and now seems to have sculptures all over Cumbria.
A quick shower and sock and cycle short washing and it was a 15 minute walk back inland to St Bees village. Found a good pub with food and real ale-can't remember name but on right hand side halfway up village main street. St. Bees has yet another Colin Telfer sculpture, this time of St Bega arriving from Ireland. Colin Telfer has his workshop in Maryport and used to be a miner. When he lost his job he enrolled in night school to do signwriting but moved into clay sculptures and now seems to have sculptures all over Cumbria.