Day 21: Whitby to Seaton Carew 48 miles
Looking back towards Whitby from Sandsend
When I left Whitby today I had no plan as to where I would end up but I was looking forward to the Transporter Bridge across the Tees- I reckon I can count it as another ferry.
Left Whitby at 9am and started with a gentle ride along the seafront and nervously past the golfcourse (read my leaving Margate experience), then out to Sandsend and up the 25% hill. Made it all the way with the help of a following wind.
The moorland to my left was covered by black clouds that I thought were coming my way but they never did reach me. After a few miles on the A174 it was a steep hill down to Staithes Harbour.
A beautiful little place very reminiscent of many Cornish fishing villages. As I pushed my bike across the footbridge a group of people were having an art lesson below me and then it was up another very steep hill to get back out-I walked this one.
Left Whitby at 9am and started with a gentle ride along the seafront and nervously past the golfcourse (read my leaving Margate experience), then out to Sandsend and up the 25% hill. Made it all the way with the help of a following wind.
The moorland to my left was covered by black clouds that I thought were coming my way but they never did reach me. After a few miles on the A174 it was a steep hill down to Staithes Harbour.
A beautiful little place very reminiscent of many Cornish fishing villages. As I pushed my bike across the footbridge a group of people were having an art lesson below me and then it was up another very steep hill to get back out-I walked this one.
Once out of Staithes there was another short stretch on the main road before a signed cycle route up a very steep hill. The top 50 metres defeated me as it became almost vertical and then it was a very quiet and quite desolute road along the high ground.
Came to a T junction with no sign but chose right as it was taking me nearer the sea. I found myself on a very long and steep descent to Skinningrove and The Valley of Iron. The industrial past was all around but I must say the village was looking very run down and later someone in Saltburn said "You wouldn't want to breakdown there."
It's amazing how a few miles from affluent looking Whitby and Staithes, where tourism has obviously brought new wealth, this area was looking really depressed.
I was right down by the beach now and of course this meant a long drag up the hill back to the A174. A very short main road section again and down to Saltburn by the Sea. A clean sandy beach with lots of horses and people walking with their dogs and a zig zag hill up to the town where I found a brilliant deli type shop and the best scones of the trip. This was turning out to be a really interesting day and I was actually enjoying the challenging hills!
As I sat outside the deli a stream of Middlesborough fans were making their way to the station on the way to the home match against Aston Villa. I would catch them up later.
Came to a T junction with no sign but chose right as it was taking me nearer the sea. I found myself on a very long and steep descent to Skinningrove and The Valley of Iron. The industrial past was all around but I must say the village was looking very run down and later someone in Saltburn said "You wouldn't want to breakdown there."
It's amazing how a few miles from affluent looking Whitby and Staithes, where tourism has obviously brought new wealth, this area was looking really depressed.
I was right down by the beach now and of course this meant a long drag up the hill back to the A174. A very short main road section again and down to Saltburn by the Sea. A clean sandy beach with lots of horses and people walking with their dogs and a zig zag hill up to the town where I found a brilliant deli type shop and the best scones of the trip. This was turning out to be a really interesting day and I was actually enjoying the challenging hills!
As I sat outside the deli a stream of Middlesborough fans were making their way to the station on the way to the home match against Aston Villa. I would catch them up later.
After a pleasent half hour in Saltburn which included a free bowl of Thai curry before my scone I was off again heading for Redcar. The deli owners told me about the cyclepath to Marske. This takes you through the largest group of allotments I've ever seen. Most of them were superbly kept.
Once on the road again it was a straight flat ride into Redcar. Another surprisingly nice place as usual I was expecting industrial areas but of course it's all gone.
Stopped in a bike shop and a customer who was just leaving escorted a good part of the way to the Transporter Bridge. In the bikeshop I was warned to hang back for a while as I would have to cycle past the Middlesborough soccer stadium and the kick off was only an hour away. As it turned out I arrived there right on 3pm and stopped for a chat with the dozens of police patrolling the approaches. While we were talking an early goal was scored and a great roar went up and next minute a young man was escorted out of the ground. Some late arriving rival fans were walking down either side of the road shouting abuse at each other-I now know that people from Birmingham smell and people from Middlesborough don't have fathers. The police told me that a few minutes before I got there it was like Benidorm with a lot of overweight men walking around with no shirts on but plenty of tatoos.
Once on the road again it was a straight flat ride into Redcar. Another surprisingly nice place as usual I was expecting industrial areas but of course it's all gone.
Stopped in a bike shop and a customer who was just leaving escorted a good part of the way to the Transporter Bridge. In the bikeshop I was warned to hang back for a while as I would have to cycle past the Middlesborough soccer stadium and the kick off was only an hour away. As it turned out I arrived there right on 3pm and stopped for a chat with the dozens of police patrolling the approaches. While we were talking an early goal was scored and a great roar went up and next minute a young man was escorted out of the ground. Some late arriving rival fans were walking down either side of the road shouting abuse at each other-I now know that people from Birmingham smell and people from Middlesborough don't have fathers. The police told me that a few minutes before I got there it was like Benidorm with a lot of overweight men walking around with no shirts on but plenty of tatoos.
Now it was just around the corner to the Transporter Bridge another milestone on my journey. Plenty of photos and then a totally silent smooth glide across the river. I had been expecting clanking chains and a jolting ride. Once across came to an area where the police were booking lots of fans cars for parking in the wrong places. Relegation and a parking ticket on the same day!
A short distance from the bridge I found a newly opened RSPB centre and went in for a cup of tea. It was a magnificent place where an old industrial wasteland had been part flooded. Finally it was a fast flat ride past the Ghost Ships to Seaton Carew and my B&B on the seafront.
The B&B was good but the beer later was not. The pub was full of unhappy but friendly soccer fans moaning about having to travel to places like Plymouth next season. As they left to continue their pub crawl they shook my hand and wished me well for the rest of the trip.
A short distance from the bridge I found a newly opened RSPB centre and went in for a cup of tea. It was a magnificent place where an old industrial wasteland had been part flooded. Finally it was a fast flat ride past the Ghost Ships to Seaton Carew and my B&B on the seafront.
The B&B was good but the beer later was not. The pub was full of unhappy but friendly soccer fans moaning about having to travel to places like Plymouth next season. As they left to continue their pub crawl they shook my hand and wished me well for the rest of the trip.
Day 22: Seaton Carew to Newbiggin by the Sea 55miles
A very good breakfast with a family of Newcastle United supporters started a very good and surprising day. Rain was forecast but never came and for most of the day the wind was at my back.
Along Seaton Carew seafront and a traffic free ride on a lovely Sunday morning to the historic docks at Hartlepool. Past the restored Trincomalee that was built at the end of the Napoleonic wars and then out of the town and onto the A1086 through the new town of Peterlee and the old colliery village of Easington. A forced detout inland and then back to the coast at Seaham. Near Hawthorn I'd come across a very nice garden centre with a coffee shop for the first refreshment stop of the day.
Along Seaton Carew seafront and a traffic free ride on a lovely Sunday morning to the historic docks at Hartlepool. Past the restored Trincomalee that was built at the end of the Napoleonic wars and then out of the town and onto the A1086 through the new town of Peterlee and the old colliery village of Easington. A forced detout inland and then back to the coast at Seaham. Near Hawthorn I'd come across a very nice garden centre with a coffee shop for the first refreshment stop of the day.
From Seaham to Sunderland was flat and with the wind behind me I was flying. As a country boy I was a bit nervous about entering this area but it turned out to an excellent morning. I cycled across the Queen Alexandra bridge and then after passing the Stadium of Light found myself overlooking Roker Pier and Beach.
There were hundreds of people, all wearing blue tops and it turned out that I had arrived on the day of the annual South Shields to Roker Pier run.
There were hundreds of people, all wearing blue tops and it turned out that I had arrived on the day of the annual South Shields to Roker Pier run.
I went down onto the beach and after asking for directions pushed my bike along the sand. The atmosphere was really exciting as hundreds of joggers went past me. I chatted to a couple on the beach who took a photo for me and I gave them my web address. They contacted Alison for me to say that we'd met and I was still alive and also to say they had had a surprise. I had given them my web adress on a scrap of paper and when they got home and put their glasses on found that we had the same surname-well apart from one letter.
As I got to the slipway off the beach there was a super snack bar with lots of outside tables. It was packed with people reading the Sunday papers and eating bacon sandwiches.This is obviously a regular weekend gathering place-in fact the couple I'd met on the beach said it was a well kept secret that the people of Sunderland kept to themselves. I sat here for a while having a coffee and relaxing in the sun. All through the trip I loved finding beautiful places where I'd least expected them.
As I got to the slipway off the beach there was a super snack bar with lots of outside tables. It was packed with people reading the Sunday papers and eating bacon sandwiches.This is obviously a regular weekend gathering place-in fact the couple I'd met on the beach said it was a well kept secret that the people of Sunderland kept to themselves. I sat here for a while having a coffee and relaxing in the sun. All through the trip I loved finding beautiful places where I'd least expected them.
Next it was off on a clifftop cyclepath to Souter Point and Marsden Bay. Here there is a lift that takes you down to a cafe in a cave on the beach. Cycled with achap who had just bought a bike to improve his fitness. "I've done five miles today and I'm knackered!" But he vowed to keep it up after we'd had a chat.
Down into South Shields and my first ferry for ages. A very smart terminal and a blue and white boat that looked brand new. Met another local cyclist on the ferry who once on the other side guided me along the cyclepaths to Tynemouth. We chatted all the way and as we parted company we shook hands and he said I had inspired him to do an end to end.
Down into South Shields and my first ferry for ages. A very smart terminal and a blue and white boat that looked brand new. Met another local cyclist on the ferry who once on the other side guided me along the cyclepaths to Tynemouth. We chatted all the way and as we parted company we shook hands and he said I had inspired him to do an end to end.
Now it was through Cullercoats and on to Whitley Bay which was of special interest to my wife as she had spent childhood summers here. I was under special instructions to take lots of photos and we spoke for ages on the mobile phone describing the scenery and trying to work out where she'd built her sancastles.
The cycling was along the promenade, flat and traffic free all the way out to St Mary's Lighthouse. As I went past Seaton Sluice- a long narrow inlet/harbour the scenery became less interesting and the roads got busier. From Blyth I was on main roads with lots of roundabouts until eventually I found the B1334 into Newbiggin by the Sea.
After asking at one B&B I found myself at Seaton House(01670 816057). Here I was warmly greeted by the landlady, Mary, with coffee and homemade scones. My room was small with no en suite or tv but the warmth of the welcome more than made up for it. Staying at the same house were a couple cycling the coast and castles route for charity but more of them tomorrow. Later that evening I watched part of Countryfile with Mary and her husband. Countryfile is good for weather forecasts when you're on a long cycle ride.
Very few eating places in town apart from an Indian and a Chineese-no food in the pubs. Had a pint in one pub but the customers had obviously been there since Sunday lunchtime and it was amazingly noisy. Went into the local
co-op and spent all of £3 on out of date reduced sandwiches, crisps and yoghurt.
The cycling was along the promenade, flat and traffic free all the way out to St Mary's Lighthouse. As I went past Seaton Sluice- a long narrow inlet/harbour the scenery became less interesting and the roads got busier. From Blyth I was on main roads with lots of roundabouts until eventually I found the B1334 into Newbiggin by the Sea.
After asking at one B&B I found myself at Seaton House(01670 816057). Here I was warmly greeted by the landlady, Mary, with coffee and homemade scones. My room was small with no en suite or tv but the warmth of the welcome more than made up for it. Staying at the same house were a couple cycling the coast and castles route for charity but more of them tomorrow. Later that evening I watched part of Countryfile with Mary and her husband. Countryfile is good for weather forecasts when you're on a long cycle ride.
Very few eating places in town apart from an Indian and a Chineese-no food in the pubs. Had a pint in one pub but the customers had obviously been there since Sunday lunchtime and it was amazingly noisy. Went into the local
co-op and spent all of £3 on out of date reduced sandwiches, crisps and yoghurt.
I thought these sculptures at Newbigginn were brilliant. They were created by Sean Henry in 2007 and are 5 metres tall. The sculpture is entitled Couple and was apparently the first permanent offshore sculpture in Britain. Onshore near where I took the photo is a smaller version for people to look at. One of the features of my trip was the number of sculptures I came across. Here is one that I'll be talking about later from Port William in South West Scotland.
Day 23: Newbiggin to Berwick on Tweed 69miles
Mary and her husband help Pam and Richard with their complicated baggage system
Today was going to be a brilliant day and it started with a good breakfast and a chat with Richard and Pam the other two cyclists. Richard was President of the Flamborough area Lions Club and he and Pam were cycling the Coast and Castles Route to raise money for Sightsavers. Our paths were to cross several times today but we didn't know it yet.
Mary made me two ham rolls to take with me instead of a fried breakfast. This was something I asked a lot of B&Bs to do and none of them minded. I would rather just have cereal or porridge and then something after I'd cycled a few miles. Mary also made contributions to the charities we were all cycling for. Mary was a lovely lady and me thinks, quite a shrewd business lady! I enjoyed my stay and the company.
From Newbiggin I was directed onto a good cycleway that took me down to Cresswell where I stopped to phone home to say I was on my way and then it was fast, flat cycling with the wind at my back.
It wasn't long before the Coast and Castles route went off road so I took the chance and just followed the signs. I stopped for a photo and at this point Pam and Richard caught me up before I zoomed off again.
It started off as tarmac, then grass and in parts sand where you had to get off and walk. I was really following a coastal footpath and I estimate 15miles at least today was rough tracks.Cycling through the dunes at Druridge Bay I met a group of about thirty young men cycling the route in the opposite direction. While we were chatting I mentioned Richard and Pam who they would be bound to meet. Richard told me later when me met of a strange experience that befell him. He was cycling along with Pam when a large group of cyclists went past him- nothing strange in that -but he was surprised when each one said "Good morning Richard." as they rode past.
Soon it was into Amble for coffee but the cafe was really miserable and as I sat there Richard and Pam went past.
Mary made me two ham rolls to take with me instead of a fried breakfast. This was something I asked a lot of B&Bs to do and none of them minded. I would rather just have cereal or porridge and then something after I'd cycled a few miles. Mary also made contributions to the charities we were all cycling for. Mary was a lovely lady and me thinks, quite a shrewd business lady! I enjoyed my stay and the company.
From Newbiggin I was directed onto a good cycleway that took me down to Cresswell where I stopped to phone home to say I was on my way and then it was fast, flat cycling with the wind at my back.
It wasn't long before the Coast and Castles route went off road so I took the chance and just followed the signs. I stopped for a photo and at this point Pam and Richard caught me up before I zoomed off again.
It started off as tarmac, then grass and in parts sand where you had to get off and walk. I was really following a coastal footpath and I estimate 15miles at least today was rough tracks.Cycling through the dunes at Druridge Bay I met a group of about thirty young men cycling the route in the opposite direction. While we were chatting I mentioned Richard and Pam who they would be bound to meet. Richard told me later when me met of a strange experience that befell him. He was cycling along with Pam when a large group of cyclists went past him- nothing strange in that -but he was surprised when each one said "Good morning Richard." as they rode past.
Soon it was into Amble for coffee but the cafe was really miserable and as I sat there Richard and Pam went past.
Next it was out to Warkworth and after turning down past the castle it was back to traffic free cyclpaths often alongside the road. As I cycled along I looked to my left and there was a group of people leaning on a gate with cameras and some instinct told me a steam train was on its way even though I didn't even know there was a railway line. There's just something about train spotters. I got my camera ready and was soon rewarded.
Soon to my right Alnmouth came in to view and a long downhill took me into the village. What a beautiful place and as I cycled through I saw Richard and Pam's bikes outside a cafe. I went in and they were having coffee with a couple of fellow Lion's Club members. We chatted for a while about my trip and then the two strangers had to rush off. When I went up to pay the waitress said it had all been taken care of-what lovely people you meet. After saying my goodbyes I went down to the river mouth for a photo.
As I cycled out of the village I passed Pam and Richard pushing their bikes up a short but steep hill.
But I promised I wouldn't mention it so I won't.
As I cycled out of the village I passed Pam and Richard pushing their bikes up a short but steep hill.
But I promised I wouldn't mention it so I won't.
Not long after leaving Alnmouth I was off road again with part cycling part walking through sandunes and along the coastal footpath. The scenery was brilliant and I came down into a sheltered cove where some steps gave a good place to sit and eat the free sandwiches Mary had given me. As I was getting ready to leave Pam and Richard appeared again and we walked along the slippery path together for a while.After a short time I was off and that was the last I saw of them-hope they achieved their goal.
From Craister to Beadnell I flew along with a strong wind at my back and in Beadnell came across "The Village Cafe" where I had a lovely piece of lemon merangue pie.Then it wasalong the beach to Seahouses-a busy harbour with lots of boat trips to the Farne Islands. Bamburgh Castle was beginning to make an appearence in the distance and very soon it was right in front of me. Thought about staying here but had a feeling the B&Bs were very expensive so carried on heading for Berwick.
From Craister to Beadnell I flew along with a strong wind at my back and in Beadnell came across "The Village Cafe" where I had a lovely piece of lemon merangue pie.Then it wasalong the beach to Seahouses-a busy harbour with lots of boat trips to the Farne Islands. Bamburgh Castle was beginning to make an appearence in the distance and very soon it was right in front of me. Thought about staying here but had a feeling the B&Bs were very expensive so carried on heading for Berwick.
The ride out of Bamburgh on the B1342 around Budle Bay was beautiful and itthen it was on to rural lanes running parallel to the A1. To catch up some time I was tempted to use the A1 for a while but after watching the lorries flying by I changed my mind. This was a good decision as the route 1 signs now took me down to the Holy Island causeway and then a new track went all the way to Berwick-sometimes tarmac at others sand or mud but it was interesting. Then suddenly I had a decision to make. I came to a gate across the track with a field to cross. However right in the middle of the field was a large brown and white bull. Now should I go back- a long detour- or could I cycle faster on grass than a bull can run. I loooked around the field to think about escape routes and then opened the gate and steadily set off. He watched me all the way, his head slowly turning to follow my progress but he never moved-shame it would have made a good story.
As I approached Berwick Alison still hadn't found me anywhere to stay. The private hostel was unfortunately full.
The last few miles to Berwick was really difficult in places but at the same time worthwhile. The last section was right alongside the railway line with cliffs to my right and the first view I got of Berwick was stunning-something I would have missed if I'd gone onto the main road. From the clifftop it was downhill to Berwick Seafront and then on to the old bridge which a lot of people think is the Scottish border, which once it was, but now the border is several miles further north.
After a lot of internet searching Alison found me accomodation at Embleton House. The landlady drove into Berwick town centre and then led the way in her car out to her house which actually meant going back over the river on a different bridge. This was a really lovely B&B with a huge comfy bed. At first I was disappointed that we were well out of town but then I was told of a pub up the road at East Ord. The Salmon was a lovely place with excellent real ales and a very tasty Steak and Ale Pie. I was content again.
The last few miles to Berwick was really difficult in places but at the same time worthwhile. The last section was right alongside the railway line with cliffs to my right and the first view I got of Berwick was stunning-something I would have missed if I'd gone onto the main road. From the clifftop it was downhill to Berwick Seafront and then on to the old bridge which a lot of people think is the Scottish border, which once it was, but now the border is several miles further north.
After a lot of internet searching Alison found me accomodation at Embleton House. The landlady drove into Berwick town centre and then led the way in her car out to her house which actually meant going back over the river on a different bridge. This was a really lovely B&B with a huge comfy bed. At first I was disappointed that we were well out of town but then I was told of a pub up the road at East Ord. The Salmon was a lovely place with excellent real ales and a very tasty Steak and Ale Pie. I was content again.
Day 24: Berwick -upon- Tweed to North Berwick 55miles
Best night's sleep so far-breakfast was at 8 and I didn't wake up until ten to and then the first time I could have porridge in a B&B and very nice it was to.There was also fruit and yoghurt on offer so all in all a very healthy breakfast. My landlady was called AIcha and I assume from somewhere like Nigeria. Her husband is in the oil business and so they have lived in several countries. This was an excellent B&B.
Left at 9am and went into Berwick to the local bike shop for a new pair of bar ends as mine had disappeared during yesterday's off road shaking.
Left at 9am and went into Berwick to the local bike shop for a new pair of bar ends as mine had disappeared during yesterday's off road shaking.
No real choice leaving Berwick upon Tweed than to use the A1. For such a major road it was very quiet the only real problems being caused by it constant changing from dual to single carriageway. Stopped at the border viewpoint for a photo and a cup of tea at the snackvan. Another target met. Had a chat with some lorry drivers who later hooted to me as they passed. Came off the main road at Buckton and dropped down into Eyemouth where I went into the Fisherman's Mission and had a bacon roll-doing an amazing amount of eating at the moment. Eyemouth is very similar to Newlyn and came across as a small town with a lot of character.
From here it was up the hill and then some minor lanes I'd been told about that avoided the A1107 and took me nearly all the way to Coldingham. Took the right turn to St Abbs and then out onto St Abbs Head and what a beautiful place this was. I didn't realise how far it was to the end and how many hills but the effort was worth it. Met a walker from Essex who took photos for me.
The whole place is is a National Trust nature reserve and is alive with seabirds. Just back from the headland is a small loch with a swan nesting in the middle on an island.
From here it was up the hill and then some minor lanes I'd been told about that avoided the A1107 and took me nearly all the way to Coldingham. Took the right turn to St Abbs and then out onto St Abbs Head and what a beautiful place this was. I didn't realise how far it was to the end and how many hills but the effort was worth it. Met a walker from Essex who took photos for me.
The whole place is is a National Trust nature reserve and is alive with seabirds. Just back from the headland is a small loch with a swan nesting in the middle on an island.
After quite a long stay at the end it was back on the hilly route to Coldingham a quick stop at the post office and then up a long drag and out along the A1107.As you approach the junction with the A1 you can take a minor road down a long hill to Pease Bay. Acroos a ford by the caravan site and then up a long hill to meet the main road again. After a few miles on the A1 I dropped down into Dunbar which was a fascinating place- especially Victoria Harbour. The entrance is a gap in the cliffs and the whole harbour is more or less inside the ruins of the castle.Boats appear to me sailing in through the castle gates. The history of the area is written up on information boards and it has certainly not been a peaceful place over the years.
From Dunbar it was about 12 miles to North Berwick-a few more hills but the wind was mostly behind and the scenery was lovely.There were views of Bass Rock all along the road and then Tantallon Castle appeared on my right.
It is a spectacular site and apparently another that could have been King Arthur's Camelot- and I thought he was Cornish. Built in the mid 14th century and left in its present state by Oliver Cromwell. I went in for a visit and it is certainly worth a stop. This ride was becoming more and more an exploratory trip for places to visit again at a later date.
It is a spectacular site and apparently another that could have been King Arthur's Camelot- and I thought he was Cornish. Built in the mid 14th century and left in its present state by Oliver Cromwell. I went in for a visit and it is certainly worth a stop. This ride was becoming more and more an exploratory trip for places to visit again at a later date.
North Berwick is a lovely town dominated by The Law- a huge hill with crossed whalebones on the top although they are now fibreglass. Different to Dunbar as it is less a working port more a tourist destination or at least that's how it appeared to me. A long mainstreet and a beautiful curved beach with an island just offshore. Good beer but no food in the pubs on weekday evenings and so it was fish and chips again sitting on a bench overlooking the beach.
As at home I was surrounded by seagulls but unlike home they sat and waited patiently and when I wandered along the top of the beach they just walked behind me- so well done Scottish seagulls, come to St Ives and have a word with your bretheren.
My B&B was over the shops in the mainstreet and owned by Francis- a friendly, jolly, chatty lady. From the outside it looked disappointing but the rooms were lovely and I was given fresh milk and biscuits on arrival which is always a good sign to me.
When I got back from my evening out I went to the bathroom to fill the kettle but the kettle wouldn't fit under the sink tap. No problem-I just leant over the bath and used that tap. Unbeknown to me the shower mixer was turned the wrong way and I was drowned from above. Now this I thought was doubly bad luck as it was the first water from above I'd had since the Isle of Wight.
As at home I was surrounded by seagulls but unlike home they sat and waited patiently and when I wandered along the top of the beach they just walked behind me- so well done Scottish seagulls, come to St Ives and have a word with your bretheren.
My B&B was over the shops in the mainstreet and owned by Francis- a friendly, jolly, chatty lady. From the outside it looked disappointing but the rooms were lovely and I was given fresh milk and biscuits on arrival which is always a good sign to me.
When I got back from my evening out I went to the bathroom to fill the kettle but the kettle wouldn't fit under the sink tap. No problem-I just leant over the bath and used that tap. Unbeknown to me the shower mixer was turned the wrong way and I was drowned from above. Now this I thought was doubly bad luck as it was the first water from above I'd had since the Isle of Wight.
Day 25: North Berwick through Edinburgh to Leven 65miles
North Berwick to Leven is 10 miles for a seagull but a lot further for me today. It was to be a great day's cycling and dry again, the wind was against in the morning and with me in the afternoon. Along the A198, past The Law, to Gullane and Muirfield Golfcourse. Lots of signs for the John Muir Way. Having looked him up on the web I find John Muir was born in Dunbar in 1838. By the age of 11 he could recite most of the Bible but apparently was "prone to lashings" as he was more interested in nature and later spent most of his life fighting to save the wilderness areas of North America.
The John Muir Way is a long distance footpath from Edinburgh, along the coast through North Berwick to the Scottish border-73 miles. It also joins up with other routes and I must admit this area of Scotland was beautiful but not in the same way as the Highlands. So if you are thinking of a walk try this one.
By the way a round of golf at Muirfield will cost you £185 in 2010. Each time I passed a group of golfers most were speaking with American accents. The pubs in Berwick were full of them talking about their day's rounds. Gullane was a thriving place seemingly based entirely on golfing holidays.
The John Muir Way is a long distance footpath from Edinburgh, along the coast through North Berwick to the Scottish border-73 miles. It also joins up with other routes and I must admit this area of Scotland was beautiful but not in the same way as the Highlands. So if you are thinking of a walk try this one.
By the way a round of golf at Muirfield will cost you £185 in 2010. Each time I passed a group of golfers most were speaking with American accents. The pubs in Berwick were full of them talking about their day's rounds. Gullane was a thriving place seemingly based entirely on golfing holidays.
Aberlady was quieter than Gullane and then it was towards the outskirts of Edinburgh and this next section was a bit of a pleasant surprise. As I foolowed the coast and came into Port Seton there was a cafe on my right so I popped in for a coffee. The owner was Turkish with a Turkish/Scottish accent, he kept saying "Nay Bother", as many people did up here but his sounded great with a Greek tinge. Whenever I stopped and asked for directions and said thankyou they always said "Nay Bother". I love it-but not sure if I've spelt it right.
Anyway back to the cafe. It was full of locals and people were swapping books and looking at the community noticeboard. The young owner was going around chatting and refilling customer's cups. The daytime menu was the usual all day breakfasts but in the evening the food was Turkish and they even had belly dancers. What a multicultural age we live in.
Before I forget, Francis asked me this morning at breakfast, if now that I'd done the Tour of Britain was I in The Tour de France this year.
"I doubt it". I said. "I think that's a bit beyond me."
That's a pity." she replied. "My friends and me see it on the tele and I could have pointed to you and said he stayed with me."
Past Cockenzie Powersation and then onto an area called Levenhall Links where an old industrial site is being reinvented as a nature reserve with a fantastic cycle path right along the shoreline. I thought getting into Edinburgh this way was going to be difficult and busy but it turned out to be excellent and set to get even better when the scheme is complete.
Anyway back to the cafe. It was full of locals and people were swapping books and looking at the community noticeboard. The young owner was going around chatting and refilling customer's cups. The daytime menu was the usual all day breakfasts but in the evening the food was Turkish and they even had belly dancers. What a multicultural age we live in.
Before I forget, Francis asked me this morning at breakfast, if now that I'd done the Tour of Britain was I in The Tour de France this year.
"I doubt it". I said. "I think that's a bit beyond me."
That's a pity." she replied. "My friends and me see it on the tele and I could have pointed to you and said he stayed with me."
Past Cockenzie Powersation and then onto an area called Levenhall Links where an old industrial site is being reinvented as a nature reserve with a fantastic cycle path right along the shoreline. I thought getting into Edinburgh this way was going to be difficult and busy but it turned out to be excellent and set to get even better when the scheme is complete.
Musselburgh and Leith are developing into continental cafe style communities with lots of outdoor cafe areas along the pavements and dockside. Leith docks has many whaling relics on display and also the Royal Yacht Brittania next to the huge Ocean Terminal which I thought was for ships to dock but apparently it's just a gigantic shopping and leisure centre.
Next is the little harbour at Newhaven, where I stopped for a Scotch pie in the bakers. I was hoping to follow the water all the way to Queensferry but soon the road swung right and headed uphill. As I passed the entrance to Laurenston castle I saw cycle route signs to Queensferry and started to follow them down a little lane. As I went around a corner I came across a field full of miniature Shetland ponies. There was lady in the field and I asked if I could take a photo. "Come in," she said. Well what a delight.
One of the horses was a recently born foal. The lady called "Bella!" and the foal came running over for a cuddle. Made my day. She was just like a little puppy.
Next is the little harbour at Newhaven, where I stopped for a Scotch pie in the bakers. I was hoping to follow the water all the way to Queensferry but soon the road swung right and headed uphill. As I passed the entrance to Laurenston castle I saw cycle route signs to Queensferry and started to follow them down a little lane. As I went around a corner I came across a field full of miniature Shetland ponies. There was lady in the field and I asked if I could take a photo. "Come in," she said. Well what a delight.
One of the horses was a recently born foal. The lady called "Bella!" and the foal came running over for a cuddle. Made my day. She was just like a little puppy.
Soon got to the bridge and cycled over for the third time in a year and then into Inverkeithing for sausage and chips. From here it was along the A921 to Aberdour. Here I came across another signed cyclepath that first went down to the award winning beach(so the signs informed me) and then followed the railway line right along the water's edge. Above me I could see how many hills on the main road this route cut out-brilliant.
Burntisland looked absolutely gorgeous with it's wide open grassy area stretching down to the sea. I stopped and talked for a while with a lovely lady about pronunciation and the local area. Yet another place to come back and explore at leisure.
Burntisland looked absolutely gorgeous with it's wide open grassy area stretching down to the sea. I stopped and talked for a while with a lovely lady about pronunciation and the local area. Yet another place to come back and explore at leisure.
Just along the road I came to Pettycur Bay and to my left were hundreds and hundreds of caravans and mobile homes, some almost hanging off the cliffs. It always amazes me how planning permission is ever granted for so many in one place. Also, although this is a really beautiful area why would visitors want to have so many other people so close by.
If you want to see for yourself look at www.pettycur.co.uk
Judging by the banners Kircaldy must be the home of Raith Rovers and they have just been promoted. Kirkaldy is the largest town in the area with a population of nearly 50,000 and is nicknamed Lang Toun 9long town) as it's main street once stretched over 4miles. After the war many new housing estates were built including some not so nice highrise flats as the population was expected to reach 70,000. This never happened, apparently because the linoleum industry declined in the 1960s. Bet you didn't know all that-unless you live there of course.
By the way the people in the tourist office were very friendly and helpful and then it was off to Leven where they told there was lots of accomodation. Just before I arrived Alison phoned to say she had found me a B&B right on the seafront.
On the way I dropped down a long steep hill into West Weymes but once there wished I hadn't. It was like one of those deserted cowboy towns you see on films. Very eiry. Hotel closed,pub closed, no shop, no people-just, I presume, empty holiday lets. Once faced with the hill back out I knew I'd made a mistake but at times I had the urge to go down deadends just to see what was there.
A quick visit To Buckhaven and then I was on the seafront in Leven.
If you want to see for yourself look at www.pettycur.co.uk
Judging by the banners Kircaldy must be the home of Raith Rovers and they have just been promoted. Kirkaldy is the largest town in the area with a population of nearly 50,000 and is nicknamed Lang Toun 9long town) as it's main street once stretched over 4miles. After the war many new housing estates were built including some not so nice highrise flats as the population was expected to reach 70,000. This never happened, apparently because the linoleum industry declined in the 1960s. Bet you didn't know all that-unless you live there of course.
By the way the people in the tourist office were very friendly and helpful and then it was off to Leven where they told there was lots of accomodation. Just before I arrived Alison phoned to say she had found me a B&B right on the seafront.
On the way I dropped down a long steep hill into West Weymes but once there wished I hadn't. It was like one of those deserted cowboy towns you see on films. Very eiry. Hotel closed,pub closed, no shop, no people-just, I presume, empty holiday lets. Once faced with the hill back out I knew I'd made a mistake but at times I had the urge to go down deadends just to see what was there.
A quick visit To Buckhaven and then I was on the seafront in Leven.
After a shower I went up into the town for a drink and food. I went into a large hotel bar and sat eating a curry and writing my diary. I was joined at the next table by a mother and daughter-quite large- who told others that they had just been to Weight Watchers. Mother went to the bar and daughter sat down to ring boyfriend. She was a little disappointed she told him because she had put on a pound since last week and didn't know why. At this point mother returned with two very large glasses of red wine and four-yes four-bags of crisps. After a long phone call and having and drunk their fill they ordered a taxi, that pulled up right outside the door,and went home. Now would have told her why she had put on a pound? I thought about it but decided my advice would not have been welcomed.
The daughter had had a very stressful week because her best friend was very upset because her nose was so big. Now it seems to be a regular occurence since the advent of mobile phones that people have very loud and very personal conversations in public. When I'm walking the dog at home I often pass people engrossed in conversation with a girlfriend or boyfriend and feel like joining in. Perhaps it's my age but I get embarrassed if talking on the phone in public and try to hide in a corner.
On another subject, I went into a public toilet today that had a large sign saying "No rollerblading in the toilets." does somebody really do that?
In another loo the sign said "We aim to please. Your aim would please us."
The daughter had had a very stressful week because her best friend was very upset because her nose was so big. Now it seems to be a regular occurence since the advent of mobile phones that people have very loud and very personal conversations in public. When I'm walking the dog at home I often pass people engrossed in conversation with a girlfriend or boyfriend and feel like joining in. Perhaps it's my age but I get embarrassed if talking on the phone in public and try to hide in a corner.
On another subject, I went into a public toilet today that had a large sign saying "No rollerblading in the toilets." does somebody really do that?
In another loo the sign said "We aim to please. Your aim would please us."