Day 61; Chester to Conwy 60miles
Another exciting day as yet another country beckoned. Cycled out to the racecourse in Chester and then with the help of a couple of local cyclists picked up Route 5 which follows the River Dee and then takes you into North Wales. Later in the day I was to meet another cyclist who gave me the web address below that gives you all the info you need to cycle this area. www.cyclingnorthwales.co.uk By the way does anyone pay to go into the racecourse as the view from the road is so good?
From Chester to Flint you are traffic free for most of the time and the section alongside the river is absolutely flat. Once at Flint the route sends you inland and up steep hills so I stuck to the main road. Stopped in Flint for lunch at Aldi and was then surprised to see so many supermarkets one after the other along the road, doubt there's a greater concentration anywhere. Aldi, Somerfield, Tesco, Netters, and Sainsburys all within walking distance of each other. Where do all the customers come from? A man in the till queue at Aldi gave me a donation for my charity.
The section to Prestatyn and Rhyll is not great but from then on it gets better and better. Once at Prestatyn you can cycle the seafront all the way through Rhyll, Abergele, Colwyn Bay and Rhos. Really lovely cycling especially as I'd not been to this area before, plenty of cafes, ice cream kiosks and places to sit and relax. I could imagine that cycling here in the main summer season would be difficult but today it was relatively quiet. It was on this section that I met a 75 year old cyclist who edits the website above. Some of the cycle path between Rhyll and Colwyn is like a roller coaster where you zoom down one slope and up the other in quick succession.
From Chester to Flint you are traffic free for most of the time and the section alongside the river is absolutely flat. Once at Flint the route sends you inland and up steep hills so I stuck to the main road. Stopped in Flint for lunch at Aldi and was then surprised to see so many supermarkets one after the other along the road, doubt there's a greater concentration anywhere. Aldi, Somerfield, Tesco, Netters, and Sainsburys all within walking distance of each other. Where do all the customers come from? A man in the till queue at Aldi gave me a donation for my charity.
The section to Prestatyn and Rhyll is not great but from then on it gets better and better. Once at Prestatyn you can cycle the seafront all the way through Rhyll, Abergele, Colwyn Bay and Rhos. Really lovely cycling especially as I'd not been to this area before, plenty of cafes, ice cream kiosks and places to sit and relax. I could imagine that cycling here in the main summer season would be difficult but today it was relatively quiet. It was on this section that I met a 75 year old cyclist who edits the website above. Some of the cycle path between Rhyll and Colwyn is like a roller coaster where you zoom down one slope and up the other in quick succession.
Thought Rhos-on-Sea was a lovely place after a stop for a cup of tea and sending a few postcards. In the queue in the post office a customer was giving the lady behind the counter a real mouthful of abuse. She was only trying to explain the rules about registered deliveries but he just wouldn't have it and thought everything should be changed for him.
Why must people be so ignorant, impatient and rude. Do they spend their whole lives acting in the same manner. I suppose you should feel sorry for them but I did feel sorry for the lady, she deserved a medal.
From Rhos a minor road took me up a steep hill behind Little Orme and the onto the B5115 and down a steep hill to Llandudno and what a fantastic view of the town and the Great Orme. Never been here before and I was really impressed by the seafront. Very smart and well maintained with no litter in sight-must return for a longer stay. Lots of people promenading and sitting eating ice creams in the sunshine. Mostly of the older generation so it all felt peaceful and relaxing. Apparently it's Bill Bryson's favourite seaside resort in the world.
Why must people be so ignorant, impatient and rude. Do they spend their whole lives acting in the same manner. I suppose you should feel sorry for them but I did feel sorry for the lady, she deserved a medal.
From Rhos a minor road took me up a steep hill behind Little Orme and the onto the B5115 and down a steep hill to Llandudno and what a fantastic view of the town and the Great Orme. Never been here before and I was really impressed by the seafront. Very smart and well maintained with no litter in sight-must return for a longer stay. Lots of people promenading and sitting eating ice creams in the sunshine. Mostly of the older generation so it all felt peaceful and relaxing. Apparently it's Bill Bryson's favourite seaside resort in the world.
Next came the mini adventure of cycling around the Great Orme and what a stunning place this is. Free for cyclists and quite a climb for the first half as the road hugs the side of the hill but then a long downhill on the other side. Great Orme means Serpent's Head and copper has been mined here for 4000 years. Apparently the Guiness Book of Records names it as the largest prehistoric open cast mine in the world. There is a visitors centre where all the history is displayed and explained. You can use the cable tramway to get the top if you want, one of only three such tramways in the world. The others being in Lisbon and San Francisco. Perhaps I was just in a good mood today but Llandudno was a real surprise to me and one of my favourite places of the trip.
There is a B&B near the end of the headland but tonight I was booked into Conwy Youth Hostel. Right at the end is a cafe with superb views. Once off the Orme I cycled and pushed my bike along the top of the beach until I reached the bridge that would take me across the river. The castle makes the entrance to the town spectacular but as is usual with youth hostels I found, after asking, that it is way up in the hills and a tough cycle as it gets steeper and steeper. The hostel has a viewing balcony up on the roof and from here the views in all directions are stunning.
A good mix of people in tonight, several school parties, lots of mountain baggers and other odds and bods. This is an excellent modern hostel. As a teacher myself I love hearing the talks the teachers give to the children. One lady tonight sat all the children down to lay out the ground rules. "My children at home are 28 and 29 and they are only allowed 3 minutes in the shower. Anyone having a shower tonight is only allowed a quick cold one."
It had been so hot today that I think she was worried about them overheating. Thunder and lightning was in the air all around us.
Had a wander around the town looking at the many surviving gates and walls, a sure sign of the hostilities between the Welsh and English over hundreds of years. There are several inland hilly cycle routes as well as the coast so this would be yet another great area for a cycling holiday but not for flat route loving cyclists.
A good mix of people in tonight, several school parties, lots of mountain baggers and other odds and bods. This is an excellent modern hostel. As a teacher myself I love hearing the talks the teachers give to the children. One lady tonight sat all the children down to lay out the ground rules. "My children at home are 28 and 29 and they are only allowed 3 minutes in the shower. Anyone having a shower tonight is only allowed a quick cold one."
It had been so hot today that I think she was worried about them overheating. Thunder and lightning was in the air all around us.
Had a wander around the town looking at the many surviving gates and walls, a sure sign of the hostilities between the Welsh and English over hundreds of years. There are several inland hilly cycle routes as well as the coast so this would be yet another great area for a cycling holiday but not for flat route loving cyclists.
Conwy to Caernarfon 30 miles
A change of plan today. The weather was so hot cycling was almost impossible and it felt even hotter at night making sleep difficult. Today they were forecasting torrential rain after lunch. This was going to clear the air so I decided on a short day and Alison booked me into the independent hostel in Caernarfon.
The road out of Conwy was really interesting, at first manic then tunnels and new cycle bridges. My cycling friend in Rhyll had recommended the challenge of going over the hills from Conwy to Penmaenmawr but luckily I was cycling the coast of Britain so I had an excuse to stay on the flat. He also said that if I'd wanted to hang around for 24 hours I could have taken part in the opening ceremony of a new cycling bridge over the A55 just past Penmaenmawr.
The first section out of Conwy is on a pavement next to the very busy and fast A55 with little between you and the traffic then there is a narrow cycle lane and low barrier which is slightly better. However after a relatively short stretch the main road goes into a tunnel and the cycleway goes around the outside of the cliff hanging over the sea. This used to be the road until the tunnel was built.
The road out of Conwy was really interesting, at first manic then tunnels and new cycle bridges. My cycling friend in Rhyll had recommended the challenge of going over the hills from Conwy to Penmaenmawr but luckily I was cycling the coast of Britain so I had an excuse to stay on the flat. He also said that if I'd wanted to hang around for 24 hours I could have taken part in the opening ceremony of a new cycling bridge over the A55 just past Penmaenmawr.
The first section out of Conwy is on a pavement next to the very busy and fast A55 with little between you and the traffic then there is a narrow cycle lane and low barrier which is slightly better. However after a relatively short stretch the main road goes into a tunnel and the cycleway goes around the outside of the cliff hanging over the sea. This used to be the road until the tunnel was built.
Penmaenmawr is dominated by a gigantic stone quarry. Talking to a local he told me the quarry once employed thousands largely supplying railway ballast but is now struggling to survive. On the side of the mountain is a giant clock-10 foot across-that used to be the works clock. It's now thought of as the town clock and part of the quarry licence agreement is to keep the clock working. One strange thing on this route were signs that warned of steep gradients that didn't exist and somebody's efforts to alter them with a giant bottle of tippex.
From Penmaenmawr there is a new cycleway around the cliffs on the landward side of the main road. Two bridges have also been built to get cyclists and walkers over and above the road. It was due to be opened by the Welsh First Minister on Friday but I went over it on Thursday- so there! The workmen were all standing around waiting for the delivery of the plaque that was to be unveiled. If you look on www.cyclingnorthwales.co.uk you can see photos of the ceremony-half wish I'd hung around now.
From Penmaenmawr there is a new cycleway around the cliffs on the landward side of the main road. Two bridges have also been built to get cyclists and walkers over and above the road. It was due to be opened by the Welsh First Minister on Friday but I went over it on Thursday- so there! The workmen were all standing around waiting for the delivery of the plaque that was to be unveiled. If you look on www.cyclingnorthwales.co.uk you can see photos of the ceremony-half wish I'd hung around now.
Once over the new cycle bridges it was through the backstreets of Llanfairfechan,a section one of the workmen told me would soon be improved. Llanfairfechan looked a little run down from my passing glimpse but it's always dangerous to generalise as every place has it's less glamorous areas. From here you soon come to a gap in the hedge that takes you onto a cyclepath beside the main road again but you can then take a minor road that transports you over the A55 and towards Bangor where you meet the A5. A couple of hills later I could see Bangor but the cycle signs led me down a steep lane to a ford where I stopped in the shade to wash my bike. Up a very steep hill in the heat and came to an unsigned junction. Turned left when I should have turned right and found myself in a maze of country lanes. Got completely lost until I eventually emerged by a large roundabout where the A5 rejoins the A55. I'd missed Bangor completely!
A quick section of main road and then a right turn down to Y Felinheli on the banks of the Menai Straits it has a marina with lock gates and, if you google the village, a thriving Budgerigar Society. Last years champion came from Lancashire and the 2010 show is on 24th October. You can also buy exhibition quality budgies from £10-
I thought they'd be more than that.
A very steep hill out then more main road with a cycle path alongside, a quick trip through the trees and you're on the outskirts of Caernarfon. Went into the town through one of the historic gates and had my first taste of bara brith from a bakers where everyone spoke Welsh. For the next couple of days I heard Welsh spoken everywhere I went.
It was so hot by now my clothes were completely stuck to me and so after finding the hostel and having a shower I set off to find a pair of shorts as stupidly I'd sent mine home in a parcel with items I thought I didn't need. Luckily for me I got a brilliant pair in a charity shop for £2. Totter's Hostel was right down by the water with only the town wall seperating it from the Straits, a lovely informal and friendly hostel. www.totters.co.uk
That evening it poured and poured but luckily for me Weatherspoons was just up the road and it was Thursday-curry night, yipee! Another customer came over and said, "you're a cyclist aren't you, can always tell you by your white hands and feet."
Must admit after so long on the road and with the hot weather different parts of my body were very different colours.
A quick section of main road and then a right turn down to Y Felinheli on the banks of the Menai Straits it has a marina with lock gates and, if you google the village, a thriving Budgerigar Society. Last years champion came from Lancashire and the 2010 show is on 24th October. You can also buy exhibition quality budgies from £10-
I thought they'd be more than that.
A very steep hill out then more main road with a cycle path alongside, a quick trip through the trees and you're on the outskirts of Caernarfon. Went into the town through one of the historic gates and had my first taste of bara brith from a bakers where everyone spoke Welsh. For the next couple of days I heard Welsh spoken everywhere I went.
It was so hot by now my clothes were completely stuck to me and so after finding the hostel and having a shower I set off to find a pair of shorts as stupidly I'd sent mine home in a parcel with items I thought I didn't need. Luckily for me I got a brilliant pair in a charity shop for £2. Totter's Hostel was right down by the water with only the town wall seperating it from the Straits, a lovely informal and friendly hostel. www.totters.co.uk
That evening it poured and poured but luckily for me Weatherspoons was just up the road and it was Thursday-curry night, yipee! Another customer came over and said, "you're a cyclist aren't you, can always tell you by your white hands and feet."
Must admit after so long on the road and with the hot weather different parts of my body were very different colours.
Day 63; Caernarfon to Abersoch 52 miles and lots of hills
It poured and poured all night and was still raining by morning. The night was also punctuated by lots of drunks shouting on their way home in the early hours. There were alot of noisy groups outside pubs as I went around town yesterday and the pubs are mostly in the centre of town so it was not a good advert for the place. It's in the news a lot at the moment and on my trip I witnessed young people drinking themselves into a stupor all over Britain.Where do they get the money if they're not at work?
Had breakfast with a Brazilian/Italian lady with the resulting fiery temprement. We had a discussion about the different temprements of different nationalities and she felt that wearing your emotions on your sleeve was the right thing to do. She was about to start a course at Bangor improving her English and hoped to study Welsh as well. She spoke several languages and hoped to start her own translation business-lovely lady.
Set off in the rain down to tha castle where you can cross the bridge and pick up a minor road that follows the Menai Straits around to Sarron. Chatted to a couple of blokes getting ready to launch their boat for a days angling. Lovely route and by the time I got to the main road at Llandwrog the rain was easing and by the time I got to Pontlyfni it had stopped.Lots of roadworks along the A499 including building cyclepaths partly by using old sections of original road. It had been relatively flat but once I left the A499 and turned right onto the B4417 the hills appeared in front of me one after the other.Llithfaen was reached up an enormous hill and was one of those villages with seemingly no people and boy I bet the wind blows up there in the winter.
Along to Nefyn and Morfa Nefyn that both turned out to be worth the climbs. Brilliant village cafe in Nefyn where I got a full roast dinner for £3.85. It was full of local elderley ladies all speaking Welsh-80% of the town population speak Welsh as their first language. Then it was on to Morfa Nefyn where I found a lovely village shop selling a gorgeous selection of fresh fruit and deli type stuff. To finish off I went down and pushed my bike along a path above the beautiful beach. Sat down on a bench and who should arrive to salute me but The Red Arrows. Still don't know who told them I was here!
Interestingly Nefyn is twinned with Puerto Madryn in the Patagonia region of Argentina. This is because Puerto Madryn was founded by 1500 Welsh settlers in 1865. Puerto Madryn now has 56,000 inhabitants. Yet another interesting fact is that Nefyn has been the epi-centre of two of Britains largest earthquakes, one in 1940 and a larger one in 1984. My knowledge of Britain is increasing everyday.
Had breakfast with a Brazilian/Italian lady with the resulting fiery temprement. We had a discussion about the different temprements of different nationalities and she felt that wearing your emotions on your sleeve was the right thing to do. She was about to start a course at Bangor improving her English and hoped to study Welsh as well. She spoke several languages and hoped to start her own translation business-lovely lady.
Set off in the rain down to tha castle where you can cross the bridge and pick up a minor road that follows the Menai Straits around to Sarron. Chatted to a couple of blokes getting ready to launch their boat for a days angling. Lovely route and by the time I got to the main road at Llandwrog the rain was easing and by the time I got to Pontlyfni it had stopped.Lots of roadworks along the A499 including building cyclepaths partly by using old sections of original road. It had been relatively flat but once I left the A499 and turned right onto the B4417 the hills appeared in front of me one after the other.Llithfaen was reached up an enormous hill and was one of those villages with seemingly no people and boy I bet the wind blows up there in the winter.
Along to Nefyn and Morfa Nefyn that both turned out to be worth the climbs. Brilliant village cafe in Nefyn where I got a full roast dinner for £3.85. It was full of local elderley ladies all speaking Welsh-80% of the town population speak Welsh as their first language. Then it was on to Morfa Nefyn where I found a lovely village shop selling a gorgeous selection of fresh fruit and deli type stuff. To finish off I went down and pushed my bike along a path above the beautiful beach. Sat down on a bench and who should arrive to salute me but The Red Arrows. Still don't know who told them I was here!
Interestingly Nefyn is twinned with Puerto Madryn in the Patagonia region of Argentina. This is because Puerto Madryn was founded by 1500 Welsh settlers in 1865. Puerto Madryn now has 56,000 inhabitants. Yet another interesting fact is that Nefyn has been the epi-centre of two of Britains largest earthquakes, one in 1940 and a larger one in 1984. My knowledge of Britain is increasing everyday.
After my lovely lunchstop I carried on down the B4417 to Tudweiliog before turning right on to the minor lanes that brought me to a National Trust beach called Porthoer-The Whistling Sands. The hill down was daunting but I'm glad I took the plunge. This is a beautiful spot with a brilliant beachside cafe. Here I met Jay, Ali and Nonny, the ladies were sisters and they were all here on a walking holiday from Leicester. The sisters were originally from Prestatyn.
I loved meeting all kinds of people all around my trip, just writing this brings all the memories back.
After putting off starting as long as I could the hill was not one I could cycle up, especially as there was nowhere to get going, the hill literally finishes in the sand.
I loved meeting all kinds of people all around my trip, just writing this brings all the memories back.
After putting off starting as long as I could the hill was not one I could cycle up, especially as there was nowhere to get going, the hill literally finishes in the sand.
Yet more hills and then down to yet another beautiful spot at the end of the Lleyn Peninsular. Aberdaron has yet another superb beach and sits in a lovely sandy sheltered bay. It is only a small village but judging by the number of shops, cafes and pubs it must be busy in the school holidays. While I was here lots of young people were arriving with their bodyboards for an after school beach session. Boats were being launched by tractor as others went out fishing. A bit more education for you- Bardsey Island off the coast here is reportedly the burial place of 2000 saints.
You can take boat trips out there to see the widlife and can stay in one of seven holiday lets. The island is run by a trust and you can even buy a young apple tree to take home - the Bardsey Apple is said to be a remnant of orchards cultivated by monks a thousand years ago and is the rarest apple in the world.
It was a steep hill down into Aberdaron and of course that meant a 20% going out and it was long as well. Once over the top another vista opened up of another beautiful beach that stretched for miles. Another big hill before an even bigger and longer one downwards to the back of this beach. As I reached the bottom I met another cyclist who had stopped and was contemplating going up. He was staying nearby with his wife and I've got a feeling that after I went he might have changed his plans.
The similarities between the Lleyn Peninsular and my home area in Cornwall are amazing. The beaches, the hills, the flowers-I could easily have been at home.
You can take boat trips out there to see the widlife and can stay in one of seven holiday lets. The island is run by a trust and you can even buy a young apple tree to take home - the Bardsey Apple is said to be a remnant of orchards cultivated by monks a thousand years ago and is the rarest apple in the world.
It was a steep hill down into Aberdaron and of course that meant a 20% going out and it was long as well. Once over the top another vista opened up of another beautiful beach that stretched for miles. Another big hill before an even bigger and longer one downwards to the back of this beach. As I reached the bottom I met another cyclist who had stopped and was contemplating going up. He was staying nearby with his wife and I've got a feeling that after I went he might have changed his plans.
The similarities between the Lleyn Peninsular and my home area in Cornwall are amazing. The beaches, the hills, the flowers-I could easily have been at home.
I was staying at a hostel tonight at Abersoch, well that's where I thought it was. When I reached Llangian the sign said Abersoch 2 miles and of course the first half of that was up a very steep hill. Not so bad as the second half was down a very steep hill. Went into a shop in Abersoch to get provisions for tea and when I asked where the hostel was the lady said-"It's in Llangian, you have to go up a very steep hill and then down a very steep hill."
What a climbing day this had been but at the end of it the hostel was lovely and the lady running it, Meinir, only charged me £5 and the kitchen was was full of freebies. The guard dog was vicious though. (Sgubor Unnos- The Bunkhouse Llangian) What a gorgeous peaceful spot for a family holiday.
What a climbing day this had been but at the end of it the hostel was lovely and the lady running it, Meinir, only charged me £5 and the kitchen was was full of freebies. The guard dog was vicious though. (Sgubor Unnos- The Bunkhouse Llangian) What a gorgeous peaceful spot for a family holiday.
Day 64: Llangian(Abersoch) to Barmouth (and a bit more) 56 miles
Woke at 4.45a.m. to the sound of pouring rain. Made a cup of tea went back to bed and slept until after 7. It was still pouring so had a very slow breakfast in my own personal hostel. By 9.30 thought I couldn't hang around any longer so donned the waterproofs and set off up that 20% hill yet again and then down into Abersoch.
It was Sunday morning and the first thing that struck me was that every other car was a Range Rover and that many of the drivers were on their mobile phones. Now what is it with Range Rover drivers- they all seem to think that the laws of the land and the rules of the road don't apply to them. Later in the day I was told by a Welsh speaking lady that Abersoch is known as Little Cheshire or the Cheshire Playground. Beautiful place Abersoch but not for me, it very much reminded me of Rock in Cornwall which has been completely taken over by the rich to the detriment of the locals.
Along the A499 to Pwllheli where yet again the harbour was full of yachts, stopped for a cup of coffee before heading out on the A497 towardsPorthmadog. Took a detour off the main road, which was quiet today, to visit Llanystumdwy and the David Lloyd George museum. He wasn't born here but spent much of his early life in the village and was buried by the river that passes through.
Stopped in Criccieth for lunch where I had an Oggie which is a lamb pasty. I always thought oggie was a Cornish word but I suppose this shows the Celtic links. Went into a teashop off the village green and everyone was speaking Welsh and it was here I met the lady who told me about Abersoch. She also told me of the similarities between the Welsh and Cornish languages and that she can understand both. Thought Criccieth was a lovely place, still retaining it's Welsh identity and not a Range Rover in site.
It was Sunday morning and the first thing that struck me was that every other car was a Range Rover and that many of the drivers were on their mobile phones. Now what is it with Range Rover drivers- they all seem to think that the laws of the land and the rules of the road don't apply to them. Later in the day I was told by a Welsh speaking lady that Abersoch is known as Little Cheshire or the Cheshire Playground. Beautiful place Abersoch but not for me, it very much reminded me of Rock in Cornwall which has been completely taken over by the rich to the detriment of the locals.
Along the A499 to Pwllheli where yet again the harbour was full of yachts, stopped for a cup of coffee before heading out on the A497 towardsPorthmadog. Took a detour off the main road, which was quiet today, to visit Llanystumdwy and the David Lloyd George museum. He wasn't born here but spent much of his early life in the village and was buried by the river that passes through.
Stopped in Criccieth for lunch where I had an Oggie which is a lamb pasty. I always thought oggie was a Cornish word but I suppose this shows the Celtic links. Went into a teashop off the village green and everyone was speaking Welsh and it was here I met the lady who told me about Abersoch. She also told me of the similarities between the Welsh and Cornish languages and that she can understand both. Thought Criccieth was a lovely place, still retaining it's Welsh identity and not a Range Rover in site.
As I cycled into Porthmadog had the usual bunch of lads hanging out of a BMW screaming at me. The rain had returned after a brief interlude so didn't stop long in the town, only long enough to see another harbour full of yachts.
Followed the road across the Cob and read the story of how it was built and then rebuilt after every storm.This whole area was apparently a bog but was drained and the town grew up as a port to serve the slate quarries.There were great plans to make this the ferry port for Northern Ireland but Thomas Telford, the Menai Bridge and Holyhead put paid to that. The demise of slate turned the area from industrial to leisure.I wonder what the old slate workers would make of the Range Rover brigade.
Picked up route 8 which took me inland slightly before I reappeared in Penrhyndeudraeth and was directed down to a tiny toll bridge across the estuary and onto the A496-now it was south and it felt like I was at last heading towards home in Cornwall.
Followed the road across the Cob and read the story of how it was built and then rebuilt after every storm.This whole area was apparently a bog but was drained and the town grew up as a port to serve the slate quarries.There were great plans to make this the ferry port for Northern Ireland but Thomas Telford, the Menai Bridge and Holyhead put paid to that. The demise of slate turned the area from industrial to leisure.I wonder what the old slate workers would make of the Range Rover brigade.
Picked up route 8 which took me inland slightly before I reappeared in Penrhyndeudraeth and was directed down to a tiny toll bridge across the estuary and onto the A496-now it was south and it felt like I was at last heading towards home in Cornwall.
Over the bridge, onto the A496 and south to Harlech. By the time I was by the castle the rain had stopped at last and it was just south of here at Llanbedr that my real adventures for today started. As I cycled through the village it was obvious something was going on and then around the corner I came to the finish line for a fell race that was part of the Welsh championships. Got a coffee and some lovely cake from the village shop and stopped for a chat.
One of the runners told me about a better route to Barmouth that would take me off the main road so as I was feeling fit as a fiddle I decided to go for it. Now I've really no idea where I went but it went up and up and up and up on beautiful lanes until you come to a dead end and then you almost turn around and come back down on parallel lanes. It was tough but the view as I crested the top and looked down over the coast was magnificent. I couldn't stay too long as the clouds were lowering rapidly and the long descent back to the main road became freezing as the mist came in. Took a lot out my legs but glad I did it.
One of the runners told me about a better route to Barmouth that would take me off the main road so as I was feeling fit as a fiddle I decided to go for it. Now I've really no idea where I went but it went up and up and up and up on beautiful lanes until you come to a dead end and then you almost turn around and come back down on parallel lanes. It was tough but the view as I crested the top and looked down over the coast was magnificent. I couldn't stay too long as the clouds were lowering rapidly and the long descent back to the main road became freezing as the mist came in. Took a lot out my legs but glad I did it.
Rejoined the A496 and turned south for Barmouth. Lovely coastal scenery and now I was below the rain again. Barmouth was busy with a music festival going on. Stopped at the supermarket as I was told my hostel tonight was in the middle of nowhere and that turned out to be no exaggeration.
I had been looking forward to crossing the old railway bridge and it certainly didn't disappoint. What a fantastic structure, dead straight and lots of people walking over it and fishing from the middle. This really is beautiful country and once on the other side found the most gorgeous cycle path up the side of the estuary towards Dolgellau. This was a real highlight. I was told to cycle up it for 4 miles and this I did before turning off onto a rough track through some pine woods. I was sure I was lost but I came out to a campsite and another muddy lane took me back up onto the A493. A few yards down the road and it was a right turn and into the wilds. This is the same road that the Kings Youth Hostel is on but that was full tonight so Alison had booked me into Caban Cader Idris Bunkhouse which is in the Independent Hostels guide.
To get to it, as usual, means a climb up a very steep hill through the woods and if you want peace and quiet, this is the one for you. It is an old school with very basic facilities. It really is in the middle of nowhere and tonight I had it to myself. It's not locked and there is no real warden. The owner told Alison to tell me to put £10 in the tin behind the door. It's agood job I'm not of a nervous disposition as owls hooted in the trees outside. There were several bunkrooms so I just wandered around until one took my fancy. Wouldn't like to stay here for long but one night was a real experience.
I had been looking forward to crossing the old railway bridge and it certainly didn't disappoint. What a fantastic structure, dead straight and lots of people walking over it and fishing from the middle. This really is beautiful country and once on the other side found the most gorgeous cycle path up the side of the estuary towards Dolgellau. This was a real highlight. I was told to cycle up it for 4 miles and this I did before turning off onto a rough track through some pine woods. I was sure I was lost but I came out to a campsite and another muddy lane took me back up onto the A493. A few yards down the road and it was a right turn and into the wilds. This is the same road that the Kings Youth Hostel is on but that was full tonight so Alison had booked me into Caban Cader Idris Bunkhouse which is in the Independent Hostels guide.
To get to it, as usual, means a climb up a very steep hill through the woods and if you want peace and quiet, this is the one for you. It is an old school with very basic facilities. It really is in the middle of nowhere and tonight I had it to myself. It's not locked and there is no real warden. The owner told Alison to tell me to put £10 in the tin behind the door. It's agood job I'm not of a nervous disposition as owls hooted in the trees outside. There were several bunkrooms so I just wandered around until one took my fancy. Wouldn't like to stay here for long but one night was a real experience.
Day 65: Barmouth to Borth 61 miles
What a strange stay this was. Very peaceful but out in the middle of nowhere. No water coming out of the taps last night but it was back on this morning, the only trouble was it looked like liquid chocolate or something even worse!
There was a little water heater over the kitchen sink so I had to make do with that. Got up at 4.30am made tea and then dropped off again until 8am.
Still no one around so left my £10 in the tin and set off down the hill through the woods to the A493 where I turned right and headed a short way up to Penmaenpool where I could get onto the brilliant cycle route again without going through the mud. Penmaenpool is the sight of one of the stations on the old line and there is also a wooden toll bridge for small vehicles although the gates were closed when I was there at 9am. This is a lovely spot with a pub/hotel called The George.
The cycle route is totally flat and just as good as I remembered from last evening. I retraced my steps back towards the Barmouth Bridge. Full of mullet in the creeks again, must come here fishing one day- in fact as I write in March 2010 I've just come across some lovely holiday lets overlooking the river and may be going up with the wife and dog in a few weeks.
There was a little water heater over the kitchen sink so I had to make do with that. Got up at 4.30am made tea and then dropped off again until 8am.
Still no one around so left my £10 in the tin and set off down the hill through the woods to the A493 where I turned right and headed a short way up to Penmaenpool where I could get onto the brilliant cycle route again without going through the mud. Penmaenpool is the sight of one of the stations on the old line and there is also a wooden toll bridge for small vehicles although the gates were closed when I was there at 9am. This is a lovely spot with a pub/hotel called The George.
The cycle route is totally flat and just as good as I remembered from last evening. I retraced my steps back towards the Barmouth Bridge. Full of mullet in the creeks again, must come here fishing one day- in fact as I write in March 2010 I've just come across some lovely holiday lets overlooking the river and may be going up with the wife and dog in a few weeks.
Once back to the Barmouth bridge it's back out onto the A493 and along to Fairbourne where a steam railway takes you on a short trip to the estuary mouth. The main line hugs the flat coastline but as in several other places I came across the road goes up and down some big hills just a little way inland.At Rhoslefain I turned off the main road onto minor lanes that took me back to the sea. Down here was a motorcycle racing circuit with a race meeting about to start. The fields were full of camper vans and caravans as people were obviously here for the weekend.
Thought about stopping to watch a couple of races but it's always difficult to get going mentally if you relax too much. Lovely views across the estuary of Afon Dysynni to Tywyn but no cycleway on the railway bridge eventhough it was full of dogwalkers just over the water.So it was up a steep hill or two to rejoin the A493.
Stopped in the Co-op in Tywyn to buy some provisions for lunch, think I was getting mean as I was begrudging paying cafe prices when you could get twice as much for half the price in a supermarket. Think actually I was worried about how much this trip was costing.
Tywyn has a beautiful promenade and it's position on the coast of Cardigan Bay is lovely. Here's an interesting fact: one of it's past residents was a clergyman called Griffith Hughes who wrote a book called The Natural History of Barbados in 1750 and it contained the very first scientific description of the grapefruit. There's something to remember when you are next having one for breakfast.
Thought about stopping to watch a couple of races but it's always difficult to get going mentally if you relax too much. Lovely views across the estuary of Afon Dysynni to Tywyn but no cycleway on the railway bridge eventhough it was full of dogwalkers just over the water.So it was up a steep hill or two to rejoin the A493.
Stopped in the Co-op in Tywyn to buy some provisions for lunch, think I was getting mean as I was begrudging paying cafe prices when you could get twice as much for half the price in a supermarket. Think actually I was worried about how much this trip was costing.
Tywyn has a beautiful promenade and it's position on the coast of Cardigan Bay is lovely. Here's an interesting fact: one of it's past residents was a clergyman called Griffith Hughes who wrote a book called The Natural History of Barbados in 1750 and it contained the very first scientific description of the grapefruit. There's something to remember when you are next having one for breakfast.
Cycled out of Tywyn on the main road looking for somewhere to stop to eat my lunch but in the end went all the way to Aberdyfi before I stopped. I really liked Aberdyfi, it was full of activity.Lots of people on the wooden jetties with crablines and buckets, the estuary was full of boats including young canoeists probably on an outward bound trip and the sun was shining-what more could you ask for. This is wonderful cycling country.
Arfon Dyfi (River Dovey) is very narrow at it's mouth but to get to the other side meant a ride of over 20 miles up to Machynlleth and back down the south side. The main road was relatively quiet and the views over the water excellent so it was no real hardship but there were plenty more hills as the A493 darted inland. Machynlleth has good memories for me. As I sat outside at an outside table at a cafe I got talking to a group of motorcyclists who were on their way back to Devon and Cornwall from the Isle of Man TT Races. They were a really friendly bunch and we talked about my trip. When I told them I was cycling for the Cornwall Air Ambulance they gave me £25 towards the fund. The funniest part was when leaving the town. I left just before them and few minutes later they began to go past one at a time. As each past they sounded their horns and waved. People walking along the road kept looking around to see what was going on and they must have thought I was famous as they all turned and clapped as I went past.
One other memory was the very impressive Machynlleth town clock. It was built in the 1870's to celebrate the coming of age of the local Viscount. The job of building it was given to Edward Edwards and his brother John Edwards and the story says that every stone was carried in a wheelbarrow from a local hill. Apparently it's a unique structure in Britain.
Arfon Dyfi (River Dovey) is very narrow at it's mouth but to get to the other side meant a ride of over 20 miles up to Machynlleth and back down the south side. The main road was relatively quiet and the views over the water excellent so it was no real hardship but there were plenty more hills as the A493 darted inland. Machynlleth has good memories for me. As I sat outside at an outside table at a cafe I got talking to a group of motorcyclists who were on their way back to Devon and Cornwall from the Isle of Man TT Races. They were a really friendly bunch and we talked about my trip. When I told them I was cycling for the Cornwall Air Ambulance they gave me £25 towards the fund. The funniest part was when leaving the town. I left just before them and few minutes later they began to go past one at a time. As each past they sounded their horns and waved. People walking along the road kept looking around to see what was going on and they must have thought I was famous as they all turned and clapped as I went past.
One other memory was the very impressive Machynlleth town clock. It was built in the 1870's to celebrate the coming of age of the local Viscount. The job of building it was given to Edward Edwards and his brother John Edwards and the story says that every stone was carried in a wheelbarrow from a local hill. Apparently it's a unique structure in Britain.
Out of Machynlleth on the A487, not a bad road but still glad to turn off on to the B4353 and back to the coast.Through Ynyslas and here I was just across the water from Aberdyfi but it had taken me over 2 hours to get here. Back in the depths of history there used to be a ferry but it finished with the coming of the raiway around the estuary. Apparently there have been attempts to revive it in the 1980s and 1990s even at one point by hovercraft,I'm sure a passenger ferry would pay in the summer. I cycled all the way around the estuary but I think there is a cycle path that cuts off abit by using one of the old railway crossings but I could be wrong.
Just a flat ride now along the shore to Borth and I just made it in time as the heavens opened. Lovely modernised hostel right on the seafront but the flood defence walls are so high you can't see the sea. Within a short time the rain was so heavy that the road outside was flooded. One set of guests were a group of youngsters celebrating finishing their A levels but I presume none of them had studied home economics as they proceeded to drop a whole saucepan of pasta sauce all over the kitchen floor. As an example of the obesity problems are country is facing one rather overweight member of the group sat at the kitchen table and drank 2 litres of coke and was really proud of his achievement.
Also staying were a father and son on a cycling holiday but unfortunately the father had fallen off his bike and was having to spend the holiday sitting with his leg in the air. Lovely room to myself and probably the best showers of the trip. Another guest gave me a lift down to the local shop for supplies to save me getting soaked but as the evening went along the rain stopped as quickly as it started and the sun came out again.
Just a flat ride now along the shore to Borth and I just made it in time as the heavens opened. Lovely modernised hostel right on the seafront but the flood defence walls are so high you can't see the sea. Within a short time the rain was so heavy that the road outside was flooded. One set of guests were a group of youngsters celebrating finishing their A levels but I presume none of them had studied home economics as they proceeded to drop a whole saucepan of pasta sauce all over the kitchen floor. As an example of the obesity problems are country is facing one rather overweight member of the group sat at the kitchen table and drank 2 litres of coke and was really proud of his achievement.
Also staying were a father and son on a cycling holiday but unfortunately the father had fallen off his bike and was having to spend the holiday sitting with his leg in the air. Lovely room to myself and probably the best showers of the trip. Another guest gave me a lift down to the local shop for supplies to save me getting soaked but as the evening went along the rain stopped as quickly as it started and the sun came out again.