Day 32: Inverness to Helmsdale 95miles (shouldn't have been)
Today was the start of stage 3 and I was up at 6am eating porridge. Had gone over the Kessock Bridge by 7.30am and then along the B9161 to Munlochy. From here it was the A832 to Rosemarkie where I stopped and bought an enormous family size Chelsea bun before going out to Channory Point where I sat on the beach eating my bun in glorious sunshine with no wind at all. If you are going from Inverness northwards the Black Isle route is excellent.
Several other people were there and the dolphins arrived and although they wouldn't jump for me all was well with the world. Posed for a few photos and it wasn't until I saw the photos later didn't realise the couple next to me posed as well.
Several other people were there and the dolphins arrived and although they wouldn't jump for me all was well with the world. Posed for a few photos and it wasn't until I saw the photos later didn't realise the couple next to me posed as well.
The Chelsea bun had disappeared-all of it- and I was ready for the off. A quick Friday morning trip to Cromarty, across the Nigg Ferry, that Alison and I had used last year and then an early lunch in Tain. I outlined my plan to one of the other watchers, a local lady and had a bit of a worrying reply.
"Ferry doesn't start running until Monday."
"Oh dear," I replied, or something similar.
So a bit of extra cycling was required on the hottest day of the trip. Back towards Fortrose on the A832. A mile or so before Munlochy I took a right turn so as to save cycling the same route as earlier and headed up to Eagle Mountain. Shouldn't have been surprised but it was quite a hill. Went through Culbokie-lovely looking village with magnificent views to the snow covered hills across the Firth. Joined the A9 for that amazing descent to the Cromarty Firth-and when are they going to do something about the surface on the bridge across the Firth.
A short distance up the road you come to the Storehouse of Glams, a farmshop and cafe. Stopped for coffee and fruitcake and then onto the B817 to go through Evanton and Alness. As I cycled through Evanton a voice shouted "Look another Cornish cyclist."
I stopped and had a chat with a youngish lad who was cycling with a friend from John O' Groats to Newcastle. He was a very cheerful young man whose father was also apparently around town somewhere. A quick stop for fruit in Alness and then off to Invergordon, still on the B817, a much better ride than the A9.
As I approached Invergordon there were signs up saying "liner in today." When I got there the town was dwarfed by the Eurodam which was moored on the quay. Didn't realise how deep the Firth is but when you read the history boards around you find that the Cromarty Firth was the original anchorage for the British fleet. They only moved to Scapa Flow to get out of range of aircraft from Europe.
The town was full of Americans and the locals were all out selling souvenirs. It reminded me of films showing traders at the pyramids selling tat to visitors. One stall was selling cushions but most of them were embroidered with cowboys. Surely visitors to Scotland would rather have thistles or something else Scottish. Had a good chat with some Americans and we took photos of each other.
Went into the fish and chip shop but had beans on toast whereas a young, large, Scots fellow had a chip butty with cheese. There must have been at least half a pound of cheese- I could visibly see his arteries hardening.
"Ferry doesn't start running until Monday."
"Oh dear," I replied, or something similar.
So a bit of extra cycling was required on the hottest day of the trip. Back towards Fortrose on the A832. A mile or so before Munlochy I took a right turn so as to save cycling the same route as earlier and headed up to Eagle Mountain. Shouldn't have been surprised but it was quite a hill. Went through Culbokie-lovely looking village with magnificent views to the snow covered hills across the Firth. Joined the A9 for that amazing descent to the Cromarty Firth-and when are they going to do something about the surface on the bridge across the Firth.
A short distance up the road you come to the Storehouse of Glams, a farmshop and cafe. Stopped for coffee and fruitcake and then onto the B817 to go through Evanton and Alness. As I cycled through Evanton a voice shouted "Look another Cornish cyclist."
I stopped and had a chat with a youngish lad who was cycling with a friend from John O' Groats to Newcastle. He was a very cheerful young man whose father was also apparently around town somewhere. A quick stop for fruit in Alness and then off to Invergordon, still on the B817, a much better ride than the A9.
As I approached Invergordon there were signs up saying "liner in today." When I got there the town was dwarfed by the Eurodam which was moored on the quay. Didn't realise how deep the Firth is but when you read the history boards around you find that the Cromarty Firth was the original anchorage for the British fleet. They only moved to Scapa Flow to get out of range of aircraft from Europe.
The town was full of Americans and the locals were all out selling souvenirs. It reminded me of films showing traders at the pyramids selling tat to visitors. One stall was selling cushions but most of them were embroidered with cowboys. Surely visitors to Scotland would rather have thistles or something else Scottish. Had a good chat with some Americans and we took photos of each other.
Went into the fish and chip shop but had beans on toast whereas a young, large, Scots fellow had a chip butty with cheese. There must have been at least half a pound of cheese- I could visibly see his arteries hardening.
As I cycled out of Invergordon along the shore masses of teenagers were walking down the road on a sponsored walk. It was all part of a community healthy living week. The road along the coast here is superb and I also cycled past Balintraid Hostel which looked directly over the Firth, was tempted to change my plans and stay here. To my right I could see the Nigg Ferry crossing point but I'd cycled miles to get here. I had hoped to be in Tain by 11.30 and was here at 2.30.
On the A9 again and past the Glenmorangie Distillery at Tain and then over the Dornoch Firth and past a sign saying "Ferrytown Ferry Slipway- (No Ferry)" The new bridges have obviously put paid to a lot of ferries, shame really.
On the A9 again and past the Glenmorangie Distillery at Tain and then over the Dornoch Firth and past a sign saying "Ferrytown Ferry Slipway- (No Ferry)" The new bridges have obviously put paid to a lot of ferries, shame really.
Once over the Firth took the decision to take a right to Dornoch and what a lovely place this looks. Stopped at a cafe in a little square off to my left. The buildings were beautiful and there is even a cathedral, will spend more time here one day. From Dornoch I followed the lanes out to Skelbo and Loch Fleet. When I got to the Loch visitors told me it had been full of dolphins just before I arrived. This Dornoch area is well worth a prolonged stay if you in this part of Scotland.
Just up the road is a turning off the A9 to Rogart where there is a hostel based in railway carriages that I've had good reports of, must stay there one day.
Just up the road is a turning off the A9 to Rogart where there is a hostel based in railway carriages that I've had good reports of, must stay there one day.
Once more onto the A9 and through Golspie and Brora. The scenery is beautiful, the hills are pleasantly challenging but the traffic is a pain. If I was going to John O' Groats on an end to end I would still turn off at Alness and go through Lairg to Bettyhill. You can't beat the Strathnaver Valley.
The hostel at Helmsdale is now in private hands and when I arrived, quite late by now, was being looked after by Henry an excellent relief warden. Went down to the village centre for a drink and had a look around. When I had driven through two years ago wasn't very impressed but now I had time to look around saw it in a better light, except for the lack of real ale. When I got back we had been joined by a German motor cyclist whose was pitching his tent on the grass outside. There were only four of us inside the hostel which is small but has good facilities.
The hostel at Helmsdale is now in private hands and when I arrived, quite late by now, was being looked after by Henry an excellent relief warden. Went down to the village centre for a drink and had a look around. When I had driven through two years ago wasn't very impressed but now I had time to look around saw it in a better light, except for the lack of real ale. When I got back we had been joined by a German motor cyclist whose was pitching his tent on the grass outside. There were only four of us inside the hostel which is small but has good facilities.
Day 33: Helmsdale to John O' Groats 55miles
Woke early and went and made a cup of tea and then spent an hour back in bed listening to the radio. In this hostel the rooms are divided up by partitions and this does seem to make a big difference to the amount of sleep I get. The modern hostels tend to be open rooms and so much less space.
Henry, the relief warden was a really friendly guy but so broad Scottish that it was difficult to understand. The German who had slept in his tent was in a bit of a state when he emerged as I was getting my bike ready. He was coughing and spluttering and could hardly speak. He'd been fine the night before. He was deciding whether to head south again because he felt so bad. This was the time when swine flu was first making the headlines and so I kept my distance.
Henry, the relief warden was a really friendly guy but so broad Scottish that it was difficult to understand. The German who had slept in his tent was in a bit of a state when he emerged as I was getting my bike ready. He was coughing and spluttering and could hardly speak. He'd been fine the night before. He was deciding whether to head south again because he felt so bad. This was the time when swine flu was first making the headlines and so I kept my distance.
First hill of the day starts right outside the hostel, three miles of zig zags as the road moves inland. About six miles up the road I stopped to look at the sight of an abandoned seaside village called Bradbea-one of those places the crofters were moved on to when thrown off their crofts. The sight was beautiful today in the sunshine but for them in winter must have been hell. In bad weather any chance of putting to sea must have disappeared for weeks on end.
Next came the biggest hills of the day one down to Berriedale and one up the other side. Fit as a fiddle now and got to the top in relative comfort.
Next came the biggest hills of the day one down to Berriedale and one up the other side. Fit as a fiddle now and got to the top in relative comfort.
Through Borgue and Ramscraigs then a right turn to Dunbeath. As I came to the first houses and started to go down to the harbour I saw a couple sitting in their car in a layby reading the papers and enjoying the glorious views.
Stopped to ask if there was a cafe nearby and they pointed to a building on the other side of the valley. Asked where they came from. There, he said pointing to a house next to the car. They just like sitting in the car reading the papers-even the dog was there. The house was for sale. The husband explained that they were moving back to Yorkshire before he "popped his clogs" as the wife can't drive. Bade my farewells and zoomed down to the valley bottom and up the other side for a coffee break.
After Dunbeath the road continues its ups and downs and the countryside becomes very open and barren. The slopes either side of you are littered with bungalows, presumably on the old croft sites but I always wonder what the people here do for a living.
Stopped to ask if there was a cafe nearby and they pointed to a building on the other side of the valley. Asked where they came from. There, he said pointing to a house next to the car. They just like sitting in the car reading the papers-even the dog was there. The house was for sale. The husband explained that they were moving back to Yorkshire before he "popped his clogs" as the wife can't drive. Bade my farewells and zoomed down to the valley bottom and up the other side for a coffee break.
After Dunbeath the road continues its ups and downs and the countryside becomes very open and barren. The slopes either side of you are littered with bungalows, presumably on the old croft sites but I always wonder what the people here do for a living.
Through , or past Latheronwheel, Latheron, Lybster, Ubster, Thrubster and finally into Wick. A busy town and it had a Weatherspoons but unfortunately not for me today. Into a supermarket to stock up for the hostel just in case shops nearer JoG were closed. A quick cup of tea and then off towards another milestone of the trip-John O' Groats.
The wind had been strong all day but by now it was howling but luckily behind me. Having gone through Keiss and on approaching JoG I saw a couple struggling up the hill probably heading for Wick. I'm guessing that this was their first day. The man was a hundred yards ahead of his female companion and she was hardly moving and I've got a feeling she was saying rude things under her breath. I was flying and didn't really have to pedal.
As I cycled into JoG it was a bit of a strange feeling because this year it did not even signal halfway on my journey. Found there was a new cafe/bar since last year and when I went in a voice said "you're a long way from home." It turned out that the lady running it is from Truro and that JoG has been taken over by the people that own Lands End and lots of improvements are planned. Mind you it wouldn't take a lot!
The wind had been strong all day but by now it was howling but luckily behind me. Having gone through Keiss and on approaching JoG I saw a couple struggling up the hill probably heading for Wick. I'm guessing that this was their first day. The man was a hundred yards ahead of his female companion and she was hardly moving and I've got a feeling she was saying rude things under her breath. I was flying and didn't really have to pedal.
As I cycled into JoG it was a bit of a strange feeling because this year it did not even signal halfway on my journey. Found there was a new cafe/bar since last year and when I went in a voice said "you're a long way from home." It turned out that the lady running it is from Truro and that JoG has been taken over by the people that own Lands End and lots of improvements are planned. Mind you it wouldn't take a lot!
Bought a couple of bottles of beer and went up to the hostel-into the wind this time. Thought for a while I might be the only one there but then an American man and two women turned up while I was cooking. I took my food into the dining room and when they came in and looked around he said "Lets go sit with Peter."
They offered me some of their food and so I offered them beer in return. "Sorry Peter we can't drink that we're Mormans." I then began to wonder if both of the women were his wives.
Now you get some strange and interesting mixtures of people in hostaels but tonight became very strange. We had me-a complete aethiest-then three Mormans and next came two very strong Catholics. Now you might think I'm making this up but the final chap to arrive was a Franciscan Friar- albeit one who had just left the order. Well the religious and philosophical discussions went on for hours-I just kept quiet and wrote my diary.
Stayed at JoG Youth Hostel last year with Alison and it is a very efficiently run and clean hostel but I do find it a bit regimented and unwelcoming and I've read other similar opinions. It's also a great shame that the hostel isn't down at JoG as this would make the atmosphere so much better-how about someone opening a private hostel down there for end to enders.
2140 miles so far.
They offered me some of their food and so I offered them beer in return. "Sorry Peter we can't drink that we're Mormans." I then began to wonder if both of the women were his wives.
Now you get some strange and interesting mixtures of people in hostaels but tonight became very strange. We had me-a complete aethiest-then three Mormans and next came two very strong Catholics. Now you might think I'm making this up but the final chap to arrive was a Franciscan Friar- albeit one who had just left the order. Well the religious and philosophical discussions went on for hours-I just kept quiet and wrote my diary.
Stayed at JoG Youth Hostel last year with Alison and it is a very efficiently run and clean hostel but I do find it a bit regimented and unwelcoming and I've read other similar opinions. It's also a great shame that the hostel isn't down at JoG as this would make the atmosphere so much better-how about someone opening a private hostel down there for end to enders.
2140 miles so far.
Day 34: John O' Groats to Tongue via Dunnet Head 72 miles
Last night we were joined by a late arriving cyclist who was about to start and end to end and I also discovered that Franciscan monks snore. As I said hostel is run on military lines and so waited until 7am- the earliest allowed time - before going to the kitchen. Porridge, packed and gone by 8.15 as I was off to Dunnet Head which is the most northerley point on the mainland. This is where end to ends ought to finish really.
Went down to the A836 and then at May took a right turn on to the minor road to Scarfskerry. As I was cycling along saw a little sign saying Harrow Harbour so went off down the lane to explore. Quite a big harbour but only one boat
and a man wandering around. He was called Roy and we had a chat about where I was going and he told me that he'd moved up here some years back to escape the rat race and find a better education for his daughters.
Told him I was keeping a diary so he offered to show me something not many people know about.
Out on the end of the pier was a plaque about the rebuilding of the harbour in 1978/79. It was re-opened in April 1979 by Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin and he said no one locally know's why. I've done a bit of internet research and I'm still none the wiser. At this time in his career he was living beside Loch Ness and was into the occult. Also there was a strong music scene in Sutherland so presumably a local music lover suggested him but still a bit of a mystery-anyone got the answer?
Went down to the A836 and then at May took a right turn on to the minor road to Scarfskerry. As I was cycling along saw a little sign saying Harrow Harbour so went off down the lane to explore. Quite a big harbour but only one boat
and a man wandering around. He was called Roy and we had a chat about where I was going and he told me that he'd moved up here some years back to escape the rat race and find a better education for his daughters.
Told him I was keeping a diary so he offered to show me something not many people know about.
Out on the end of the pier was a plaque about the rebuilding of the harbour in 1978/79. It was re-opened in April 1979 by Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin and he said no one locally know's why. I've done a bit of internet research and I'm still none the wiser. At this time in his career he was living beside Loch Ness and was into the occult. Also there was a strong music scene in Sutherland so presumably a local music lover suggested him but still a bit of a mystery-anyone got the answer?
After this interesting detour it was a 5 mile up and down out to Dunnet and what a stunning place this is. When I arrived the car park was full of camper vans. Most of the occupants were European-Dutch or German I think and were all boiling kettles and eating continental type breakfasts. The views from here are superb. You can see right across to the Old Man of Hoy and other parts of the Orkneys. Obviously a great birdwatchers vantage point.
The lighthouse was built in 1831 by Robert Stevenson and although it is 300ft up has been damaged by flying rocks during storms-luckily today the weather gods were still on my side. So much more spectacular than JoG and just lacking a cafe although there are the Dunnet tearooms back in Brough. It's about a 10 mile detour altogether but well worth it.
The lighthouse was built in 1831 by Robert Stevenson and although it is 300ft up has been damaged by flying rocks during storms-luckily today the weather gods were still on my side. So much more spectacular than JoG and just lacking a cafe although there are the Dunnet tearooms back in Brough. It's about a 10 mile detour altogether but well worth it.
A repeat of all the ups and downs in reverse order and then I rejoined the A836 for the flat ride into Thurso. Last year Alison and I had to keep stopping as the wind was so strong today the breeze was at my back. Thurso was mostly closed this Sunday morning but immediately over the bridge and a right turn takes you to a good cafe on the harbourside. We'd stopped here last year to recover and make new day 1 plans.
Today as I waited a very disgruntled customer came to the counter to ask how long his order was going to be. One of the young girls went to the kitchen to find out and came back with the devastating news that the chef had never received the order. They'd try do it as fast as possible but he was none too pleased asked for his money back and walked out.
All I wanted was a scone and coffee which came to £2.80. I presented the girl with a £10 note and she asked if I had the right change.I thought the till must be short. Unfortunately I didn't and so she went and got a piece of paper and proceeded to write out a sum:
£
10.00
- 2.80
7.20
She actually did all the crossing outs and paying backs that I can't do on the computer. All the time she was doing it I wanted to jump in with the answer but thought I'd better not. She did get it right though.
The scone and coffee was very good by the way.
As you leave Thurso you come to good old Lidls and it was open. Two Scotch pies were 99p but I went for broke and had two steak and gravy for £1.30.
Today as I waited a very disgruntled customer came to the counter to ask how long his order was going to be. One of the young girls went to the kitchen to find out and came back with the devastating news that the chef had never received the order. They'd try do it as fast as possible but he was none too pleased asked for his money back and walked out.
All I wanted was a scone and coffee which came to £2.80. I presented the girl with a £10 note and she asked if I had the right change.I thought the till must be short. Unfortunately I didn't and so she went and got a piece of paper and proceeded to write out a sum:
£
10.00
- 2.80
7.20
She actually did all the crossing outs and paying backs that I can't do on the computer. All the time she was doing it I wanted to jump in with the answer but thought I'd better not. She did get it right though.
The scone and coffee was very good by the way.
As you leave Thurso you come to good old Lidls and it was open. Two Scotch pies were 99p but I went for broke and had two steak and gravy for £1.30.
A few more hills now as you head towards Reay and after that they really ramp up but in a zig zaggy challenging way. Village shops in Reay and Melvich. Fantastic deserted open roads with wild views and then one more big hill up to the Strathy Inn. Last year Alison and I had stayed here( see "Long Trek Home") and so went in for a cup of tea and more cake. One other customer who was a Canadian cyclist-David Dunsmore. He had flown to Heathrow with Canadian Airlines who supply a bike bag but when he went to get his connecting Easy Jet flight to Scotland they wouldn't carry his bike as he had no bag. Had to travel up by train paying full fare and lost all his money on flight. I think this is why cycling in your own country is so appealing. David gave me a Canadian badge which I've still got .
More hills and fantastic views as you approach Bettyhill and a cafe in the tourist info office if you need it but straight through for me this year. Past the turn that we took for the last two years into the beautiful Strathnaver Valley and up the long drag and on to Tongue. I love this road which goes across open moors and then dips down into fertile valleys full of wild flowers. It was so hot today that I'm glad I had suncream.
The view from Tongue village down to the Kyle is breathtaking and the Youth Hostel-set right by the water- is superb. Hannah runs it with her husband and both are so cheerful and helpful. As you enter the building you are greeted by a table covered in home baking that is for sale at really low prices and there is also a well stocked little shop so no need to worry about picking up supplies.
My fellow guests included lots of cyclists including John and Michael Bickerstaff, my friends from Inverness Youth Hostel. While I'd followed the coast they had been over to the west coast and Durness and tomorrow were off to Thurso to catch the ferry to Orkney and then on to Shetland. They are really seasoned cycle tourists and gave me lots of tips about organising myself. The best and so simple I could have cried was to sort your panniers into day and night equipment. Before this I was always saying "now which pannier is it in?" Or what about mixing up your porridge and powdered milk in one portion servings and put in seperate bags, then all you have to do is tip in the saucepan and add water. I've never been a fan of powdered milk but it's fine in porridge.
By the way they're famous-their grandad built Blackpool Tower.
The view from Tongue village down to the Kyle is breathtaking and the Youth Hostel-set right by the water- is superb. Hannah runs it with her husband and both are so cheerful and helpful. As you enter the building you are greeted by a table covered in home baking that is for sale at really low prices and there is also a well stocked little shop so no need to worry about picking up supplies.
My fellow guests included lots of cyclists including John and Michael Bickerstaff, my friends from Inverness Youth Hostel. While I'd followed the coast they had been over to the west coast and Durness and tomorrow were off to Thurso to catch the ferry to Orkney and then on to Shetland. They are really seasoned cycle tourists and gave me lots of tips about organising myself. The best and so simple I could have cried was to sort your panniers into day and night equipment. Before this I was always saying "now which pannier is it in?" Or what about mixing up your porridge and powdered milk in one portion servings and put in seperate bags, then all you have to do is tip in the saucepan and add water. I've never been a fan of powdered milk but it's fine in porridge.
By the way they're famous-their grandad built Blackpool Tower.
Day 35: Tongue to Durness 34miles
Had a real problem deciding whether to stay two nights at Tongue or head off west. Was definately going to spend two days at Durness to go out to Cape Wrath so thought thought I'd better leave this gorgeous place and push on.
When you stay in a hostel people you have met seem to become friends very quickly and it was a long round of goodbyes as people set off on their bikes heading off in all directions. Outside hostels is a hive of activity as everyone gets ready.
John and Michael were off to catch the ferry, a couple of girls loaded up their bikes and then waited for the "bike bus" to take them to Thurso and then there was Howard. Not sure where Howard was going but he was riding a Moulton and was as red as a beetroot. I was glad of my suncream over the last few days but Howard had cycled without it and got burnt-not something he'd expected this far north. When I called into Tongue post office later the lady told me they'd sold out. Howard had also broken his camera so I took a couple of photos for him-if you come across this Howard let me know and I'll e mail photos to you. Same goes for John and Michael.
When you stay in a hostel people you have met seem to become friends very quickly and it was a long round of goodbyes as people set off on their bikes heading off in all directions. Outside hostels is a hive of activity as everyone gets ready.
John and Michael were off to catch the ferry, a couple of girls loaded up their bikes and then waited for the "bike bus" to take them to Thurso and then there was Howard. Not sure where Howard was going but he was riding a Moulton and was as red as a beetroot. I was glad of my suncream over the last few days but Howard had cycled without it and got burnt-not something he'd expected this far north. When I called into Tongue post office later the lady told me they'd sold out. Howard had also broken his camera so I took a couple of photos for him-if you come across this Howard let me know and I'll e mail photos to you. Same goes for John and Michael.
The hostel closes just for a couple of hours at 10am. I wasn't in a hurry today with a short trip ahead of me so I went back indoors and had a scone (40p) and coffee from the home baking table before going up into the village. A few postcards later and it was down to the Kyle of Tongue and on towards Durness. Crossing the Kyle is beautiful and as I crossed and looked over the bridge a large salmon glided past heading upstream and hopefully avoided the angler in the boat ahead of him. Mind you as an angler perhaps I shouldn't say that. A quick photo call and then up the hills and over the high moors to Loch Eriboll and a chance meeting with some more old aquaintences.
In Inverness I'd met a group of cyclists from Minnessota Rovers who had waited for three days for their bikes to arrive. As I stood looking down the hill in the photo above a group on bikes started the ascent. The hill is a lot steeper than it looks and some battled up and a couple did it in stages but as they got closer I realised who they were. They were off to spend the night at the Crask Inn and would be turning right and going down Strath More to Altnaharra. At Ullapool one of their racks had collapsed but they met a man who used to hire out bikes who rushed home and came back with a dusty rack that fitted perfectly. To catch up on time they had used the "bike bus" to get from Ullapool to Durness.
They were a lovely bunch of people and were enjoying their trip after the dodgy start, the weather was being very kind to all of us. Hope they all got home safely. Keep looking at their club website but no report has yet appeared.
They were a lovely bunch of people and were enjoying their trip after the dodgy start, the weather was being very kind to all of us. Hope they all got home safely. Keep looking at their club website but no report has yet appeared.
Down at the bottom of the hill you look across Loch Eriboll and it doesn't look very far but you have to go left and go right around the Loch. The ride is beautiful but takes for ever and there are a few hills before you reach the other side. At the head of the loch is a lonely house under the hill-it looks like a superb spot to live but a bit lonely in the winter.
Once onto the other side the road is more or less flat. Sat on the grass for a while and ate my cake from Tongue and then went into the little tearoom at Laide for a cup of tea and an ice cream. It was a really hot day and what could be better but disaster-it was closed. Later I was told it never closes, well it did today. As you turn the corner to head into Durness there in front of you is a beautiful beach-with the sun out today it looked more like the Caribbean than Northern Scotland.
passed the ruined Ceannabeine Village which was thriving in 1840 and empty in 1842. The village fell foul of the clearances where at first they were only given 48 hours to leave their homes. Apparently 300 local people stood up to police sent from Dornoch to supervise the eviction and as a result at least they were able to stay until the summer of 1842. This incicdent has become known as the Durness riots. This period of history is so inhuman. Last year I'd stopped at similar deserted village in the Strathnaver valley.
Once onto the other side the road is more or less flat. Sat on the grass for a while and ate my cake from Tongue and then went into the little tearoom at Laide for a cup of tea and an ice cream. It was a really hot day and what could be better but disaster-it was closed. Later I was told it never closes, well it did today. As you turn the corner to head into Durness there in front of you is a beautiful beach-with the sun out today it looked more like the Caribbean than Northern Scotland.
passed the ruined Ceannabeine Village which was thriving in 1840 and empty in 1842. The village fell foul of the clearances where at first they were only given 48 hours to leave their homes. Apparently 300 local people stood up to police sent from Dornoch to supervise the eviction and as a result at least they were able to stay until the summer of 1842. This incicdent has become known as the Durness riots. This period of history is so inhuman. Last year I'd stopped at similar deserted village in the Strathnaver valley.
Through Sangobeg, past Smoo Cave and there on my right was the Youth Hostel. It is housed in two second world war army huts. The facilities are basic but the welcome is brilliant. I arrived at 2.30 and went to ask if I could drop my bags off. Maryanne, the warden was sitting on the gras with Ben and Misty her collies. She was immediately up took me inside and made a cup of tea. What a nice person-makes all the difference.
After tea it was up to call on Neil Fuller better known on the CTC Forum as Neil(fatmanonabike). Neil and I had exchanged information through the CTC forum and he had offered to lend me a mountain bike to go out to Cape Wrath. Neil runs Durness Stone Craft and is a very accomplished stone carver himself. During my stay I came across the John Lennon stones outside the new village hall and these were produced, at very short notice, by Neil. As I write I see that a film is about to be released about John Lennon and his auntie who I'm assuming is the one he used to spend time with in Durness. It's amazing the things I learnt on this trip.
Neil had just completed a Cape Cornwall to Cape Wrath ride. Neil loves his real ale as much as I do and may even start his own micro brewery in the future. I look forward to sampling Smoo Cave Bitter one day soon. When on long rides most of us are very careful about our diet but Neil tells me his ride included lots of late night ale sampling including till 4am one night. On the Hebrides his back wheel collapsed and his wife had to deliver another bike so he could complete the ride. www.durnessstonecraft.com
After tea it was up to call on Neil Fuller better known on the CTC Forum as Neil(fatmanonabike). Neil and I had exchanged information through the CTC forum and he had offered to lend me a mountain bike to go out to Cape Wrath. Neil runs Durness Stone Craft and is a very accomplished stone carver himself. During my stay I came across the John Lennon stones outside the new village hall and these were produced, at very short notice, by Neil. As I write I see that a film is about to be released about John Lennon and his auntie who I'm assuming is the one he used to spend time with in Durness. It's amazing the things I learnt on this trip.
Neil had just completed a Cape Cornwall to Cape Wrath ride. Neil loves his real ale as much as I do and may even start his own micro brewery in the future. I look forward to sampling Smoo Cave Bitter one day soon. When on long rides most of us are very careful about our diet but Neil tells me his ride included lots of late night ale sampling including till 4am one night. On the Hebrides his back wheel collapsed and his wife had to deliver another bike so he could complete the ride. www.durnessstonecraft.com
After our chat I went down to the village shop and found a good selection of bottled real ales-chose two new ones and went back to the hostel. After pasta and rice pudding I strolled down to Smoo Cave which the information boards told me has been used by man for thousands of years. Until recently it was used as a harbour and a rusty winch can still be seen.
Had a good nights sleep in the very basic sleeping hut but be warned there's no heating in this hut. Maryanne is pushing the SYHA to spend some money on the place because the position is fantastic. Hope she's successful.
Had a good nights sleep in the very basic sleeping hut but be warned there's no heating in this hut. Maryanne is pushing the SYHA to spend some money on the place because the position is fantastic. Hope she's successful.
My second day at Durness started off with a disappointment as I was told that bombing practice meant I wouldn't be allowed to cycle out to Cape Wrath but ended with a meeting with Keith and Michael. I was the village supermarket deciding what to have for tea when I heard them discussing whether to buy a loaf of bread as they would waste half of it. Offered to share a loaf with them and said I would pop by their tent, on the campsite, on my way back to the hostel.
When I got there I accepted the offer of a cup of tea and Keith(might have been Michael) went off to the communal kitchen to boil the water. He was using an Aldi saucepan with a detachable handle and twice on the way back to the tent the hot water was lost as the handle gave way. On the third attempt we got our tea. Saw hundreds of motor bikers on my trip especially in Scotland and Keith and Michael were certainly enjoying themselves and were off the following morning. As well as the tea and bread I was also given 2 eggs and so that was breakfast sorted for tomorrow. On hearing what I was doing they wouldn't accept any payment for my goodies. Durness seems full of nice people.
Later I went down to the Balnakiel Craft Village where one of the units is a chocolate maker called Cocoa Mountain. As Alison's birthday was due I set home a posh box of luxury truffles to earn a few brownie points. www.cocoamountain.co.uk
Next it was down to the beach from where I watched the bombers swooping in and bombing Cape Wrath before yet more tea back at Neil's shop. Neil offered to cook dinner for me later that evening but not having Neil's late night abilities I declined in favour of an early night but thanks for the offer Neil.
Early start tomorrow and a feeling that I was halfway and turning for home.
When I got there I accepted the offer of a cup of tea and Keith(might have been Michael) went off to the communal kitchen to boil the water. He was using an Aldi saucepan with a detachable handle and twice on the way back to the tent the hot water was lost as the handle gave way. On the third attempt we got our tea. Saw hundreds of motor bikers on my trip especially in Scotland and Keith and Michael were certainly enjoying themselves and were off the following morning. As well as the tea and bread I was also given 2 eggs and so that was breakfast sorted for tomorrow. On hearing what I was doing they wouldn't accept any payment for my goodies. Durness seems full of nice people.
Later I went down to the Balnakiel Craft Village where one of the units is a chocolate maker called Cocoa Mountain. As Alison's birthday was due I set home a posh box of luxury truffles to earn a few brownie points. www.cocoamountain.co.uk
Next it was down to the beach from where I watched the bombers swooping in and bombing Cape Wrath before yet more tea back at Neil's shop. Neil offered to cook dinner for me later that evening but not having Neil's late night abilities I declined in favour of an early night but thanks for the offer Neil.
Early start tomorrow and a feeling that I was halfway and turning for home.