Day 56: St Bees to Duddon Sands Hostel(Opposite Millom at Sandside) 53 miles
A beautiful sunny morning but when I went out to take photos before breakfast the grass by the beach was covered in rubbish left by the youngsters playing soccer last night. It's the same at home and everywhere I travelled, what's the matter with people. I went down one beautiful lane on the south coast of England and suddenly came across a washing machine which I assume had accidently been forgotten by a family out for a picnic.
Followed the Hadrian's Wall cycle route on backlanes to Nethertown. Started off alongside a railway line and then onto a cyclepath through sandunes and salt marsh. It then cuts inland and suddenly there facing you is Sellafield nuclear power station.Asked if they could recharge my mobile but they weren't keen.
After a short stretch on the road it's back to a cyclepath that takes you all the way to Seascale with the final section along a lovely flower lined sandy track. The name is from the Norse Skali which means shelter by the sea. It was founded by vikings fleeing from the Isle of Man and Scotland.There is a beautiful beach and a couple just about to start a coast to coast cycle were taking photos of themselves at the water's edge.
Followed the Hadrian's Wall cycle route on backlanes to Nethertown. Started off alongside a railway line and then onto a cyclepath through sandunes and salt marsh. It then cuts inland and suddenly there facing you is Sellafield nuclear power station.Asked if they could recharge my mobile but they weren't keen.
After a short stretch on the road it's back to a cyclepath that takes you all the way to Seascale with the final section along a lovely flower lined sandy track. The name is from the Norse Skali which means shelter by the sea. It was founded by vikings fleeing from the Isle of Man and Scotland.There is a beautiful beach and a couple just about to start a coast to coast cycle were taking photos of themselves at the water's edge.
Next it was on to Ravenglass and the start of today's great adventure. It started off just fine as after a visit to the estuary side I found the steam railway and had a lovely lunch at the platform buffet. It was after lunch where it all went wrong when I took some advice from a couple who only had half of the answer to my question which meant I travelled 10 miles to actually go less than 1.
I left the station and headed for the A595 to go round the top of the estuary. As I went up the road there was a lane on my right that went down to the ruins of a Roman bathhouse and it looked as if I might be able to cut out a chunk of the mainroad. When I reached the ruins there were two other people there and they had an Ordnance Survey map, which they assured me showed a bridleway going down the lane, so off I went.
The lane came out onto the foreshore and I turned left and part pushed and occassionally cycled through the gravel and mud. I reached a spot where the river turned at right angles to the left while the railway bridge went straight across in front of me. It was only 50yards across the water. I looked around the bridge but couldn't see anyway for me to cross and was sorely tempted to make a dash along the rails but thought better of it as this was a mainline not the steam railway and it was quite high.
To my left I found a gate and a narrow path leading off into the reed beds so assumed this was my way and that it just hadn't been trimmed recently. The path went on and on and got narrower and narrower until I came to a dead end with a wall to my left. I took the panniers off and lifted the bike up over the wall and into a woods. There was a track in the woods which I folowed but that ended and so I started down a slope and found another very narrow path. It was very muddy and then I cam to a sign saying "path closed dangerous bridge"
Well, I wasn't about to retrace my steps and so I ploughed on and came to a wooden bridge with only a few planks left in place and great holes in it. I took the panniers off again and ferried my stuff over bit by bit. This took me into another reed bed and then into a field of sheep. I cycled across the field, climbed over a gate, down a lane and then came out onto a road. I assumed it was the A595,although I hadn't a clue where I was and turned right and came to a place called Lane End Waberthwaite. There was a little shop here so had an ice cream and then set off down a minor road which was signposted Newbiggin. When I got to the bottom of the hill I found myself at the other end of the railway bridge with a bridleway sign pointing into the river. The tide had been out when I was on the other side and all I'd had to do was wade across the river and I'd have got here in 1minute instead of a cross country route of several miles and over an hour.
The lane came out onto the foreshore and I turned left and part pushed and occassionally cycled through the gravel and mud. I reached a spot where the river turned at right angles to the left while the railway bridge went straight across in front of me. It was only 50yards across the water. I looked around the bridge but couldn't see anyway for me to cross and was sorely tempted to make a dash along the rails but thought better of it as this was a mainline not the steam railway and it was quite high.
To my left I found a gate and a narrow path leading off into the reed beds so assumed this was my way and that it just hadn't been trimmed recently. The path went on and on and got narrower and narrower until I came to a dead end with a wall to my left. I took the panniers off and lifted the bike up over the wall and into a woods. There was a track in the woods which I folowed but that ended and so I started down a slope and found another very narrow path. It was very muddy and then I cam to a sign saying "path closed dangerous bridge"
Well, I wasn't about to retrace my steps and so I ploughed on and came to a wooden bridge with only a few planks left in place and great holes in it. I took the panniers off again and ferried my stuff over bit by bit. This took me into another reed bed and then into a field of sheep. I cycled across the field, climbed over a gate, down a lane and then came out onto a road. I assumed it was the A595,although I hadn't a clue where I was and turned right and came to a place called Lane End Waberthwaite. There was a little shop here so had an ice cream and then set off down a minor road which was signposted Newbiggin. When I got to the bottom of the hill I found myself at the other end of the railway bridge with a bridleway sign pointing into the river. The tide had been out when I was on the other side and all I'd had to do was wade across the river and I'd have got here in 1minute instead of a cross country route of several miles and over an hour.
After my detour the rest of the day was relatively easy and with some excellent scenery. The minor road to Bootle passed yet more firing ranges in the sandune and in Bootle an excellent butcher provided a nice pie. Through Millom and a tea stop and around the Duddon Estuary and lastly a very hilly section to the Duddon Sands Hostel which is next door to a pub owned by the same person. The hostel is nearly new and when I was there the whole business was up for sale. No food unfortunately in the pub tonight although the barman's wife and daughter were off on the train to Barrow for a chinese and offered to bring one back for me. Not keen on chinese really so opted to use up my supplies which actually amounted to weetabix and porridge but I needed the carbs. Before I went to bed that night I'd eaten a whole box of twelve weetabix and a bowl of porridge plus beer and crisps from the pub.
There were two other young men staying in my room tonight and very friendly they were. In actual fact they were so friendly they shared the same bunk! Good job I'm broadminded, thought it best to pretend I hadn't noticed.
There were two other young men staying in my room tonight and very friendly they were. In actual fact they were so friendly they shared the same bunk! Good job I'm broadminded, thought it best to pretend I hadn't noticed.
Day 57: Duddon Sands to Ulverston 45 miles
Late last night a 40th Birthday group had arrived but luckily their celebrations, including Karioke, where planned for tonight so I am glad I was off. I left the hostel at 8am and set off for Barrow in Furnace. Stopped at Askam in Furness and you could see the lasting effects of the end of the steel industry here which apparently dominated the whole estuary from Millom right around to Barrow. I saw so often on my trip that areas, once industrial, were now beautiful nature reserves which was great for me but not for the men and women that lost their jobs. The O Level Geography curriculum that I studied is certainly out of date now.
Down the A590 into Barrow and across Walney Channel and right out to the southern tip of the Isle of Walney. It was lowtide and a hard track went out over the mud to Piel Island but without a guide I didn't feel like risking my life. Later I found that a ferry runs from Piel Island to Roa Island so I could have bagged another ferry and done a round trip. Spoke to a couple of cockle pickers who told me how the numbers had declined and also spoke to a group of anglers off to catch bass on the seaward side of the island.
The end of the island is a bird sanctuary and entry is restricted by wardens from whom you can buy a permit for £2. Went into the caravan park which is not really open to the public but they let me have tea and cake in the cafe overlooking the indoor pool.
Back into Barrow where it was Gala day and the streets were closed to traffic while hundreds of youngsters danced in the streets. Opposite the dockyards there are still terraces of back to back red brick houses with small backyards and seperated by back lanes, just like you see on Coronation Street. The lanes were full of washing blowing in the wind and children playing.
I left the town, which I'd had poor expectations of, thinking what a beautiful area this was and a real contrast with my dated southerner's view. My next stop was out on Roa Island where there was a ferry to take you to Piel Island and also a great fish and chip shop. I sat on the steps and had a very enjoyable lunch next to the lifeboat station which is on stilts.
Down the A590 into Barrow and across Walney Channel and right out to the southern tip of the Isle of Walney. It was lowtide and a hard track went out over the mud to Piel Island but without a guide I didn't feel like risking my life. Later I found that a ferry runs from Piel Island to Roa Island so I could have bagged another ferry and done a round trip. Spoke to a couple of cockle pickers who told me how the numbers had declined and also spoke to a group of anglers off to catch bass on the seaward side of the island.
The end of the island is a bird sanctuary and entry is restricted by wardens from whom you can buy a permit for £2. Went into the caravan park which is not really open to the public but they let me have tea and cake in the cafe overlooking the indoor pool.
Back into Barrow where it was Gala day and the streets were closed to traffic while hundreds of youngsters danced in the streets. Opposite the dockyards there are still terraces of back to back red brick houses with small backyards and seperated by back lanes, just like you see on Coronation Street. The lanes were full of washing blowing in the wind and children playing.
I left the town, which I'd had poor expectations of, thinking what a beautiful area this was and a real contrast with my dated southerner's view. My next stop was out on Roa Island where there was a ferry to take you to Piel Island and also a great fish and chip shop. I sat on the steps and had a very enjoyable lunch next to the lifeboat station which is on stilts.
The coast road from Rampside up to Ulverston was really interesting. The tide was out about a mile and there were lugworm beds from the beach right out to the lowtide and stretching for miles along the coast. Met a man and his young son who had just walked right out across the mud to set a longline. It was something his father had done with him and he wanted to keep the tradition going. They were mainly expecting to catch plaice.
As I approached Ulverston I came across a Buddhist college and saw lots of people in purple uniforms walking back towards the college from town. I was in a bit of a rush now because I wanted to see the British Lions playing South Africa and so I walked around town looking for a pub showing it live but couldn't find one. I gave up and started off towards the hostel I was staying in. Halfway there I glanced to my left and saw a sign-"Swann Inn-Live Rugby-9 real ales" Well it must have been a miracle- shame about the result.
The hostel is very good and I had a room to myself tonight. It had been a really warm day and my body is acting like a night storage heater. During the evening the sky went black and we had a tremendous storm with heavy rain and thunder but it had been a really good day again. Up above the hostel is the Sir John Barrow monument which is modelled on the Eddystone Lighthouse. It was built in 1850 to remember Sir John who was a naval man born in the town. At the moment it's under repair as you can see. I bet the repairs are costing more than the £1250 it cost to build.
As I approached Ulverston I came across a Buddhist college and saw lots of people in purple uniforms walking back towards the college from town. I was in a bit of a rush now because I wanted to see the British Lions playing South Africa and so I walked around town looking for a pub showing it live but couldn't find one. I gave up and started off towards the hostel I was staying in. Halfway there I glanced to my left and saw a sign-"Swann Inn-Live Rugby-9 real ales" Well it must have been a miracle- shame about the result.
The hostel is very good and I had a room to myself tonight. It had been a really warm day and my body is acting like a night storage heater. During the evening the sky went black and we had a tremendous storm with heavy rain and thunder but it had been a really good day again. Up above the hostel is the Sir John Barrow monument which is modelled on the Eddystone Lighthouse. It was built in 1850 to remember Sir John who was a naval man born in the town. At the moment it's under repair as you can see. I bet the repairs are costing more than the £1250 it cost to build.
Day 58: Ulverston to Morecombe 53miles
After limited sleep in the heat I was not very enthusiastic today but the day got better and better as it went on. Starting out on the A590 the skies were black, rain looked imminent, it was really hot and muggy and I was having trouble turning the pedals but as soon as I turned right onto the B5278 onto the Cartmel peninsular things started to look up. I went through the villages of Holker, Clark, Flookburgh and Allinthwaite-all with railway stations and this would be an superb area to arrive by train for a cyle tour-the scenery and roads were excellent. In Flookburgh was a pub called The Guide Over The Sands from where the Queen's Guide of Morecombe Sands leads out walks, apparently on some days hundreds turn up to walk across to Arnside and then catch the train back. It was along here that I came across the pinkest building I'd ever seen, it was an old peoples home and the residents should have little trouble finding their way home.
Next was the beautiful town ofGrange- over- Sands.Lovely gardens, excellent bakery/cafe-one of Rick Stein's food heroes-and a promenade where grass stretches out where there should be sea. It was lowtide and I presume this is sea grass.The railway station is literally on the promenade.
Next was the beautiful town ofGrange- over- Sands.Lovely gardens, excellent bakery/cafe-one of Rick Stein's food heroes-and a promenade where grass stretches out where there should be sea. It was lowtide and I presume this is sea grass.The railway station is literally on the promenade.
I left Grange over Sands and headed out of town on the main road but soon picked up a cycle route which I hoped was going to take me over the railway bridge to Arnside but a meeting with a local cyclist soon dashed those hopes.
The cycle path-Route 20- crossed inland of the A590 and it was here I got a bit lost up in the hills and villages. I knew I was wrong when I saw a sign to Kendal and so I took the first right and found myself on busy A591 a long way north of where I should have been.
Taking my life in my hands I headed south to Milinthorpe where I stopped for lunch. It was a popular village square with a fountain and groups of motorbikers out for their Sunday runs. Suzie's breakfast rolls were obviously a well known local delicacy. Shame about Miss Rawlinson,the elephant and the fountain!
Now it was back on to the minor rods to Sandside and Arnside on the River Kent and what wonderful places they are. I stopped in Arnside for an ice cream as it was so hot, the beaches had lots of children and families enjoying the weather. As I strolled out on to a little pier a couple of tandems were leaning against the railings and it was here I met Pat,Fred, Sheila and Alan. They turned out to be lifetime cyclists. Fred was 80 (or was it Alan?) and had spent his whole life cycle camping all over the world with his wife. Fred had actually completed my trip in 1950, two years before I was born. They'd only stopped camping when Fred was 75 because he put his back out carrying water in the Pyrennes. Pat and Fred lived in Silverdale and they invited me back for a cup of tea and gave me directions but I had one more unintended adventure first. Apologies if the names and stories are a bit mixed up.
The cycle path-Route 20- crossed inland of the A590 and it was here I got a bit lost up in the hills and villages. I knew I was wrong when I saw a sign to Kendal and so I took the first right and found myself on busy A591 a long way north of where I should have been.
Taking my life in my hands I headed south to Milinthorpe where I stopped for lunch. It was a popular village square with a fountain and groups of motorbikers out for their Sunday runs. Suzie's breakfast rolls were obviously a well known local delicacy. Shame about Miss Rawlinson,the elephant and the fountain!
Now it was back on to the minor rods to Sandside and Arnside on the River Kent and what wonderful places they are. I stopped in Arnside for an ice cream as it was so hot, the beaches had lots of children and families enjoying the weather. As I strolled out on to a little pier a couple of tandems were leaning against the railings and it was here I met Pat,Fred, Sheila and Alan. They turned out to be lifetime cyclists. Fred was 80 (or was it Alan?) and had spent his whole life cycle camping all over the world with his wife. Fred had actually completed my trip in 1950, two years before I was born. They'd only stopped camping when Fred was 75 because he put his back out carrying water in the Pyrennes. Pat and Fred lived in Silverdale and they invited me back for a cup of tea and gave me directions but I had one more unintended adventure first. Apologies if the names and stories are a bit mixed up.
In Arnside a siren sounds everyday as the tide comes up the river and on bigger tides there is a tidal bore like the River Severn but smaller. The railway bridge was just in front of us and what a shame they don't put a cycle path on it. What a fantastic route it would be between Arnside and Grange over Sands.This really is a beautiful area and one of my favourites of the whole trip.
My tandem friends gave me instructions on how to get to their house and set off on another route to Silverdale. I wanted to go up to Arnside Knott and set off up the steep hill. "You're not going to cycle up there", a passer by shouted, "they call it cardiac hill". Anyway I went past the youth hostel and up and up until I reached the summit and what fantastic views, well worth the heart attack risk.The road seemed to come to a dead end and the other visitors were unsure if I could go on or should turn back. As happened several times on this trip I went for it and set off into the woods. It was all down hill but a mountain bike would have been more suitable but after an age a gate appeared with a road on the other side. I phoned Alison to tell her of my latest adventure. As I was speaking two tandems flew past with the ladies on the back waving, they certainly have more nerve than me. I set off for Silverdale but they were there long before me.
After tea and cake they gave me instructions on the scenic route to Morecombe. On quiet lanes and sometimes next to the sea I was in good spirits as I went through Carnforth and Bolton le Sands eventually finding myself cycling right onto Morecombe seafront. The way I'd come had been signed Route 6 and easy to follow.
After tea and cake they gave me instructions on the scenic route to Morecombe. On quiet lanes and sometimes next to the sea I was in good spirits as I went through Carnforth and Bolton le Sands eventually finding myself cycling right onto Morecombe seafront. The way I'd come had been signed Route 6 and easy to follow.
Morecombe seafront seems never ending and you can cycle all the way along it passing lots of statues and sculptures including of course Eric Morecombe. Some of the sculptures, especially the birds were outstanding and a feature that kept cropping up on my trip.
Alison had found me a very good B&B just off the seafront and once showered I went off to Weatherspoons yet again for the cheap Sunday roast. The pubs were packed with noisy people, often sitting outside in the sun, who had obviously been drinking for hours. The worst part was the language and that the fact that it was all being witnessed by their children. Even at 9pm there were children, well under the age of eleven, sitting on the walls while their parents shouted and swore. What hope do they have in life. The owner of the B&B said that there were often complaints about the noise. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the B&B which is a pity because I would have like to have recommended it.
Alison had found me a very good B&B just off the seafront and once showered I went off to Weatherspoons yet again for the cheap Sunday roast. The pubs were packed with noisy people, often sitting outside in the sun, who had obviously been drinking for hours. The worst part was the language and that the fact that it was all being witnessed by their children. Even at 9pm there were children, well under the age of eleven, sitting on the walls while their parents shouted and swore. What hope do they have in life. The owner of the B&B said that there were often complaints about the noise. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the B&B which is a pity because I would have like to have recommended it.
Day 59 Morecombe to Southport 80 miles
A long day ahead today and at last a ferry crossing to add to my list. Down on to the seafront after an excellent breakfast and along to Heysham docks and ferry terminal. You can get to the Isle of Man from here and the whole dock area certainly was a busy place. From the docks I headed out to Overton and then back along the River Lune towards Lancaster. The minor road along the river was covered in debris and obviously spends a lot of time under water. Went past a pub that looked inviting and is only accessible when the water level is low.
Into Lancaster and across the modern pedestrian bridge from where you can pick up a cycle path that takes you along the other bank of the Lune and again here saw the salmon netters in action. This is a brilliant peaceful and quiet route and at the end of it you come to a cafe where several other cyclists were already enjoying refreshment.
Into Lancaster and across the modern pedestrian bridge from where you can pick up a cycle path that takes you along the other bank of the Lune and again here saw the salmon netters in action. This is a brilliant peaceful and quiet route and at the end of it you come to a cafe where several other cyclists were already enjoying refreshment.
Somewhere here I took a wrong turn as I ended up on the A6 instead of the A588. I went down as far as Galgate before cutting across to Cockerham. From there the road was flat and fast as I went around to Preesall and into Knott End to catch the ferry. There was good and bad news. The tide was out so no ferry for over an hour but there was a cafe for lunch right by the slipway. By 2 o'clock I was in Fleetwood and from there mile after mile after mile of promenade cycling. I'd never been to the Blackpool area and so this was a real eye opener. Not for me in August I think. I've never seen so many hotels in all my life and many of them seemingly named to sound more exotic. You had the Clovelly, the Parisienne,Tiffany's, the Casablanca and the Golden Nile(clever that one).
There is a lot of money being spent on revamping the seafront all along here and today it was pleasant enough cycling but not sure I'd want to repeat the experience. In Blackpool itself I found it easiest to wait until a tram had gone past and then cycle down the tramway until another one came along. I thought I was never going to get to the end but eventually reached Lytham and a bit of peace.
There is a lot of money being spent on revamping the seafront all along here and today it was pleasant enough cycling but not sure I'd want to repeat the experience. In Blackpool itself I found it easiest to wait until a tram had gone past and then cycle down the tramway until another one came along. I thought I was never going to get to the end but eventually reached Lytham and a bit of peace.
Stopped in a cafe in Lytham St Anne's and asked about B&B in the area. The lady gave me the phone number of a friend who had a guesthouse but it was going to cost me £50 so I decided to carry on. From Lytham to Preston is a long flat ride along the A584, it was raining and the traffic was quite heavy. In Preston the docks are now a marina and residential area as so many places on my trip. It was certainly I'd seen a supermarket with a lighthouse.Got a bit lost in Preston on the cycle routes but a local cyclist on his way home from work led me out of town.
No quiet roads to Southport without going on long detours and in the rain this was not really an option. Alison had found me a B&B in Southport so it was all speed along the main A565 not a pleasant experience. At some points there were cycle paths next to the road but the surfaces were so bad you just couldn't use them.
My B&B was excellent. The landlady had a very dry sense of humour. When her husband drove up she said "Look out here comes Basil Fawlty." In fact she reckoned he was worse than Basil- sure he was very nice really.
She gave me my key and I set off to look for room 9-couldn't find it so came back down. "Can't find room 9." "If you do let us know, we've only got 8." I was looking at the key upside down!
After a shower went to find Weatherspoons as usual except this time I had entertainment. There was agroup of young ladies and gentlemen that were very loud and obviosly there was relationship troubles. Eventually they were ordered out after customers complained but this just resulted in a big fight on the pavement outside. The police came and arrested a few and at least one went off in an ambulance. I was back in the real world after the peace of Scotland and Cumbria.
Today had been a hard day negotiating all the built up areas and tomorrow was a trip through Liverpool before out into North Wales and some more relaxing cycling. I'm glad I've been to all these places but I'm not in a hurry to go back.
No quiet roads to Southport without going on long detours and in the rain this was not really an option. Alison had found me a B&B in Southport so it was all speed along the main A565 not a pleasant experience. At some points there were cycle paths next to the road but the surfaces were so bad you just couldn't use them.
My B&B was excellent. The landlady had a very dry sense of humour. When her husband drove up she said "Look out here comes Basil Fawlty." In fact she reckoned he was worse than Basil- sure he was very nice really.
She gave me my key and I set off to look for room 9-couldn't find it so came back down. "Can't find room 9." "If you do let us know, we've only got 8." I was looking at the key upside down!
After a shower went to find Weatherspoons as usual except this time I had entertainment. There was agroup of young ladies and gentlemen that were very loud and obviosly there was relationship troubles. Eventually they were ordered out after customers complained but this just resulted in a big fight on the pavement outside. The police came and arrested a few and at least one went off in an ambulance. I was back in the real world after the peace of Scotland and Cumbria.
Today had been a hard day negotiating all the built up areas and tomorrow was a trip through Liverpool before out into North Wales and some more relaxing cycling. I'm glad I've been to all these places but I'm not in a hurry to go back.
Day 60: Southport to Chester 59 miles
Today was the day I got lost in the sandunes and the Mersey Ferry broke down and then ended up in Chester when I should have been in North Wales.
The day began with an amusing breakfast. A young girl arrived to wait at table and very nice she was except that she began and ended every sentence with a deep sigh. Everytime a guest asked for something she sighed said "OK then." sighed again and went off to the kitchen. I'm sure she didn't even realise she was doing it but it really added to the Fawlty Towers image created by the landlady's humour last night. One guest asked for boiled eggs instead of a fry up and off she went and five minutes later appeared with one. "Is it possible I could have two please?"
(sigh) "I'll go and find out."(sigh)..............returns...........(sigh)"Yes but you've got to eat that one first."(sigh)
We were all creased up. A really good guesthouse.
Before leaving Southport I went off down to the seafront and Pleasure Gardens as last night I had only been into the town. Quite unexpected down here- lake for waterskiing and a very futuristic bridge- and then we were off for today's adventures.
The day began with an amusing breakfast. A young girl arrived to wait at table and very nice she was except that she began and ended every sentence with a deep sigh. Everytime a guest asked for something she sighed said "OK then." sighed again and went off to the kitchen. I'm sure she didn't even realise she was doing it but it really added to the Fawlty Towers image created by the landlady's humour last night. One guest asked for boiled eggs instead of a fry up and off she went and five minutes later appeared with one. "Is it possible I could have two please?"
(sigh) "I'll go and find out."(sigh)..............returns...........(sigh)"Yes but you've got to eat that one first."(sigh)
We were all creased up. A really good guesthouse.
Before leaving Southport I went off down to the seafront and Pleasure Gardens as last night I had only been into the town. Quite unexpected down here- lake for waterskiing and a very futuristic bridge- and then we were off for today's adventures.
The first thing I noticed as i left Southport was that all the cyclepath signs were in minutes not miles. According to the first sign i was 49mins from Formby but it took me about 2 hours. Not far out of Southport the route took me through a pine woods where I looked for red squirrels but failed to spot one and then I came out in Freshfield. Now postmen are usually good for directions but the one I spoke to sent me on a real adventure. I set off down narrow tracks and muddy lanes and eventually found myself out on Ainsdale sandunes. I pushed my bike up and over the dunes and after backteracking more than once eventually found the sea and a tarmac path heading in the Liverpool direction.
After a couple of miles I came to a carpark with a snackbar where I stopped for a cup of tea and asked where I was.
Somehow or other I'd got to Formby but it was a lot more than 49 mins by my pioneering route. The seafront path noe took me past the Anthony Gormley statues, that I thought were brilliant, and into Crosby and then out to the mouth of the Mersey but now it came to a dead end. I was hoping I'd simply be following the river right round to the ferry but no such luck. I turned round and went back to follow the path across a park an eventually came to a main road. After asking it turned out to be the A565 and apparently I was still several miles from the ferry. After a bit of thought I just got onto the main road and set off as fast as I could. It certainly wasn't scenic and as a country boy you get the feeling that you're fighting for survival. Half an hour later I recognised the Liver Buiding in front of me and in around the other side of that was the modern ferry terminal. What a terrible piece of architecture that is and completely out of place on the old waterfront- others waiting for the ferry totally agreed.
After a couple of miles I came to a carpark with a snackbar where I stopped for a cup of tea and asked where I was.
Somehow or other I'd got to Formby but it was a lot more than 49 mins by my pioneering route. The seafront path noe took me past the Anthony Gormley statues, that I thought were brilliant, and into Crosby and then out to the mouth of the Mersey but now it came to a dead end. I was hoping I'd simply be following the river right round to the ferry but no such luck. I turned round and went back to follow the path across a park an eventually came to a main road. After asking it turned out to be the A565 and apparently I was still several miles from the ferry. After a bit of thought I just got onto the main road and set off as fast as I could. It certainly wasn't scenic and as a country boy you get the feeling that you're fighting for survival. Half an hour later I recognised the Liver Buiding in front of me and in around the other side of that was the modern ferry terminal. What a terrible piece of architecture that is and completely out of place on the old waterfront- others waiting for the ferry totally agreed.
Did you know that the Liver Building was built for the Royal Liver Insurance Company which at the time it opened in 1911 employed 6000 people. Apparently one of the liver birds is male and one female. The male one looks inland to see if the pubs are open and the female out to see looking for approaching sailors-must be true a Scouser told me.
Got my ferry ticket and had half an hour before ferry so I could relax and have a coffee after the morning's excitement and scenic detours. The ferry was due to leave at 1pm and along with the others waiting I made my way down to the landing stage in good time. One o'clock came and went but no movement from the ferry opposite on the Wirral. After half an hour of waiting an announcement told us that it had broken down and they may not be able to fix it today. Another ferry turns up but no one is allowed on as he is going out of service- a few choice words were by now eminating from the crowd around me. I phoned Alison and got her to check vacancies at Liverpool Youth Hostel as I thought I was stuck for the day but then good news the problem was fixed and the ferry could be seen going on a trial run. I think I witnessed the first non running since mines drifted up the Mersey during the second world war.
An hour or so later it arrived and I was feeling in a bit of a rush now. Then to my surprise I found that the ferry doesn't just go back and forth but gives you a tour of the docks. Very interesting and of course the commentary is given to background music-"Ferry cross the Mersey".
On the crossing got talking to a doctor from Scotland who was down for a conference and had hired a bike for the afternoon to cycle around the Wirral to Chester and then catch a train back to Liverpool. At this point I had no idea where I was staying tonight but North Wales was now out of the question.
Got my ferry ticket and had half an hour before ferry so I could relax and have a coffee after the morning's excitement and scenic detours. The ferry was due to leave at 1pm and along with the others waiting I made my way down to the landing stage in good time. One o'clock came and went but no movement from the ferry opposite on the Wirral. After half an hour of waiting an announcement told us that it had broken down and they may not be able to fix it today. Another ferry turns up but no one is allowed on as he is going out of service- a few choice words were by now eminating from the crowd around me. I phoned Alison and got her to check vacancies at Liverpool Youth Hostel as I thought I was stuck for the day but then good news the problem was fixed and the ferry could be seen going on a trial run. I think I witnessed the first non running since mines drifted up the Mersey during the second world war.
An hour or so later it arrived and I was feeling in a bit of a rush now. Then to my surprise I found that the ferry doesn't just go back and forth but gives you a tour of the docks. Very interesting and of course the commentary is given to background music-"Ferry cross the Mersey".
On the crossing got talking to a doctor from Scotland who was down for a conference and had hired a bike for the afternoon to cycle around the Wirral to Chester and then catch a train back to Liverpool. At this point I had no idea where I was staying tonight but North Wales was now out of the question.
Before my trip I'd put a question about getting through Liverpool and around the Wirral on the internet and was told that the Wirral is a good cycling area and so it turned out to be. Right from the ferry terminal I could cycle traffic free most of the way to Chester. If I hadn't been so late I would have really taken my time and enjoyed it. From Wallasey to Hoylake I was cycling along promenades and then I picked up a cycle path on an old railway that took me right down the south west side. In West Kirby I went into a cafe and had alovely cuppa and a piece of cake and the owner again refused payment when I told her of my adaventures.
Next, back on the cycle path I came to the Thursaston Visitors Centre where there was good cafe and nature area with lots of lakes and parkland. The signs all said The Wirral Way and as far as I know you can literally do a complete circuit and end up back where you started. At Neston I felt I needed to get off the trail and went up a bank onto the busy and dangerous A540. It was getting late and I decided Chester might be the best place to head for. I tried one of those roadside hotel chains but they were full and they phoned another nearby but it would have been £65 so that was out.
Meanwhile Alison back in Cornwall was ringing every B&B in Chester. The main road was terrible but as evening drew in I eventually cycled into Chester through one of the historic gates and stopped at the roadside and there right next to me was the doctor I'd met on the ferry.
Almost immediately my phone went and Alison had found a B&B for £25 so I could relax at last. The B&B turned out to be a bit basic but was close to the town centre so half an hour so later I was yet again in a Weatherspoons and it was cheap steak night so all's well that ends well. I'd hoped to have stopped at the famous Eureka cyclists cafe today. It's just off the A540 but my ferry delay had spoilt that. Turning right and heading into North Wales tonight was not really a possibility as there was no sign of accomodation until you got right round to Prestatyn, never mind just another of my unplanned detours.
Next, back on the cycle path I came to the Thursaston Visitors Centre where there was good cafe and nature area with lots of lakes and parkland. The signs all said The Wirral Way and as far as I know you can literally do a complete circuit and end up back where you started. At Neston I felt I needed to get off the trail and went up a bank onto the busy and dangerous A540. It was getting late and I decided Chester might be the best place to head for. I tried one of those roadside hotel chains but they were full and they phoned another nearby but it would have been £65 so that was out.
Meanwhile Alison back in Cornwall was ringing every B&B in Chester. The main road was terrible but as evening drew in I eventually cycled into Chester through one of the historic gates and stopped at the roadside and there right next to me was the doctor I'd met on the ferry.
Almost immediately my phone went and Alison had found a B&B for £25 so I could relax at last. The B&B turned out to be a bit basic but was close to the town centre so half an hour so later I was yet again in a Weatherspoons and it was cheap steak night so all's well that ends well. I'd hoped to have stopped at the famous Eureka cyclists cafe today. It's just off the A540 but my ferry delay had spoilt that. Turning right and heading into North Wales tonight was not really a possibility as there was no sign of accomodation until you got right round to Prestatyn, never mind just another of my unplanned detours.