Day 39: Gairloch to Torridon Youth Hostel 43 miles
Up early again, drinking tea at 6a.m. then three breakfasts. Weetabix,honey nut cornflakes and porridge-all from the free shelf and the fresh milk was free as well. Free shelves in hostels are a boon for cyclists.
Left the hostel at 8.30 and pottered back into Gairloch and around to the harbour.Lots of boats, including one with a glass bottom, for whale, dolphin and seal watching. A list on the harbourside indicated that in the last few days minke and humpback whales had been spotted.
A long gentle climb out of Gairloch and then a long downhill to Loch Maree which is 20km long and the largest this far north. On the way out of Gairloch I stopped to talk to a cyclist who turned out to be from Camborne in Cornwall.
From the story he told he seems to spend most of his life just cycling around the country. I have never seen a bike so laden with luggage like a mule with wheels. The funniest thing was that on the handlebars he had fixed a box of red wine! Later at Kinlochewe I met a similar character who was cycling the coast like me but so far had taken 3 years.
Loch Maree seems to go on forever and has regular viewing points with information boards. Stopped at one car parking area and it was full of people putting on walking boots and setting off into the hills, already scratching their heads. The loch was once lined with iron works smelting iron for cannons. During the first world war the timber around the loch was used for making ammunition boxes.
Left the hostel at 8.30 and pottered back into Gairloch and around to the harbour.Lots of boats, including one with a glass bottom, for whale, dolphin and seal watching. A list on the harbourside indicated that in the last few days minke and humpback whales had been spotted.
A long gentle climb out of Gairloch and then a long downhill to Loch Maree which is 20km long and the largest this far north. On the way out of Gairloch I stopped to talk to a cyclist who turned out to be from Camborne in Cornwall.
From the story he told he seems to spend most of his life just cycling around the country. I have never seen a bike so laden with luggage like a mule with wheels. The funniest thing was that on the handlebars he had fixed a box of red wine! Later at Kinlochewe I met a similar character who was cycling the coast like me but so far had taken 3 years.
Loch Maree seems to go on forever and has regular viewing points with information boards. Stopped at one car parking area and it was full of people putting on walking boots and setting off into the hills, already scratching their heads. The loch was once lined with iron works smelting iron for cannons. During the first world war the timber around the loch was used for making ammunition boxes.
Next came Kinlochewe, a sleepy village with snow still on the hills above. Two cafes and a hotel with bunkhouse and that was about it , had tea in one cafe and coffee in the other plus sent a few postcards.
The A896 to Torridon was a lovely scenic ride with hills on either side but the road went along flat areas between them. Cars were parked all along the road, in one car parking area were 15 cars but despite looking around I couldn't actually see a soul.
Torridon itself is a spectacular place with the buildings dwarfed by the mountains around. The valley is sheltered and lined with rhododendrons. There is aschool, medical centre and a new village hall where on Tuesday nights meals are available for the youth hostel residents.
Because my trip today was short the hostel wasn't yet open so I hada quick nap on the grass by the loch and then went down to the Torridon Inn where I had a pint of Young Pretender and a free taste of Sheepshagger. (sorry but that was what it was called)
On the way back to the hostel had a free sheepdog demonstration. The dog was brilliant especially as he had to get the sheep around a small loch.
The A896 to Torridon was a lovely scenic ride with hills on either side but the road went along flat areas between them. Cars were parked all along the road, in one car parking area were 15 cars but despite looking around I couldn't actually see a soul.
Torridon itself is a spectacular place with the buildings dwarfed by the mountains around. The valley is sheltered and lined with rhododendrons. There is aschool, medical centre and a new village hall where on Tuesday nights meals are available for the youth hostel residents.
Because my trip today was short the hostel wasn't yet open so I hada quick nap on the grass by the loch and then went down to the Torridon Inn where I had a pint of Young Pretender and a free taste of Sheepshagger. (sorry but that was what it was called)
On the way back to the hostel had a free sheepdog demonstration. The dog was brilliant especially as he had to get the sheep around a small loch.
Day 40: Torridon-Applecross-Plockton 70miles
An early rise again-weetabix and porridge and then an early start as I knew there were lots of hills and lots to see today.I was in Sheidag before 9am and had to wait for the shop to open because I didn't want to start Applecross with no supplies. Chatted to a boy cycling up the hill to to school and he informed me there were 6 children in his school so I presume their soccer team wasn't too good. Beautiful village Shieldag and was just the start of a stunning day but harder than I'd expected- not because of the famous Pass of the Cattle but what came later. As I left Shieldag saw another cyclist putting his panniers on his bike outside a small hotel-we would meet again later.
Just outside Shieldag you get to the sign that leads you on to the Applecross Peninsular. By taking this road it is 40 miles and many hills to Kishorn, if you stick to the A896 it's 14! No turning back now as this was the day I'd most been looking forward to all trip. Just after taking the turn I stopped to take a photo of a beautiful view and the cyclist I'd seen came by and stopped. Last night he'd been stuck for accomodation and had paid well over £100 to stay in Shieldag but it did include dinner. He took a lovely photo for me which I've now got blown up at home. Alison phoned me at this point so he went on but we would meet yet again on the big one later.
This road to Applecross is an amazing switchback until you reach the open coast with the most amazing vistas across to Raasay where Alison and I had spent a week a few years ago. Before the village of Applecross itself you come to the beach featured in Monty Hall's BBC2 programme last year and there were quite a few people walking along the beach and looking in his hut.
This road to Applecross is an amazing switchback until you reach the open coast with the most amazing vistas across to Raasay where Alison and I had spent a week a few years ago. Before the village of Applecross itself you come to the beach featured in Monty Hall's BBC2 programme last year and there were quite a few people walking along the beach and looking in his hut.
Applecross is in a beautiful position and with the difficult access it feels in the middle of nowhere but I have the feeling it will be getting a bit too popular with all the publicity. Today the pub was packed, so I went down to the village shop which to be honest was not so great. The shelves were half empty, they didn't have one single sandwich or similar for sale and they couldn't sell me a stamp as the post office was closed for lunch. Luckily a few yards up the start of the hill is a campsite with a cafe where I had a slab of lemon merangue pie before starting the climb. Be warned, Applecross is midge heaven, I was attacked while writing a postcard and at the campsite met the three years around Britain cyclist I'd met at Kinlochewe- he told me that he was camping and was afraid to come out of his tent.
Anyway I couldn't put it off any longer and started the six mile climb to the Pass of the Cattle (Beallach na Ba). This road is the highest road climb in the UK because you actually start with your wheels almost in the sea at Applecross. The road is very Alpine, in that it zig zags up to the top at 2100ft. Cyclists from all over are coming to challenge themselves and each year organised rides use this route. U Tube is full of videos of mostly motorbikers flying up and down.
I loved it and if you can, do it from the Applecross side, as the view from the top as you round the corner and look down to Kishorn is breathtaking. Also the last mile coming up from the Kishorn side is extremely steep and narrow and you are bound to have to keep stopping for traffic and getting going again would be very difficult.
As I set off from the campsite I could see another cyclist about a mile ahead and so it gave me a target and when later I caught him up in turned out to be the cyclist who had stayed in the expensive hotel in Shieldag. I was determined to try and get all the way up without stopping and was very pleased to say that I did, panniers and all but in retrospect in was a mistake. My mind told me that once I reached the top that was it for today but it turned out rather differently later. The effort getting there and the views from the top are still fresh in my mind and you must try and do it once in your life but judging by all the warning signs not in winter. It was hot cycling but freezing at the top.
Anyway I couldn't put it off any longer and started the six mile climb to the Pass of the Cattle (Beallach na Ba). This road is the highest road climb in the UK because you actually start with your wheels almost in the sea at Applecross. The road is very Alpine, in that it zig zags up to the top at 2100ft. Cyclists from all over are coming to challenge themselves and each year organised rides use this route. U Tube is full of videos of mostly motorbikers flying up and down.
I loved it and if you can, do it from the Applecross side, as the view from the top as you round the corner and look down to Kishorn is breathtaking. Also the last mile coming up from the Kishorn side is extremely steep and narrow and you are bound to have to keep stopping for traffic and getting going again would be very difficult.
As I set off from the campsite I could see another cyclist about a mile ahead and so it gave me a target and when later I caught him up in turned out to be the cyclist who had stayed in the expensive hotel in Shieldag. I was determined to try and get all the way up without stopping and was very pleased to say that I did, panniers and all but in retrospect in was a mistake. My mind told me that once I reached the top that was it for today but it turned out rather differently later. The effort getting there and the views from the top are still fresh in my mind and you must try and do it once in your life but judging by all the warning signs not in winter. It was hot cycling but freezing at the top.
Coming down the steep side to Kishorn was another adventure. My hands were numb with the cold and it was difficult to keep the brakes on. The views were so good that you were in danger of cycling straight off the side as you gazed around. As it was flattenning out near the bottom I met a group of eight older cyclists, mostly ladies, going up. Had a quick chat and they were being led by a chap who said he had done this route in his youth. I'm not sure he remembered or they knew what was to come just around the corner. From both sides this climb starts off gently and then surprises you as you round the bends. As they disappeared from view I had visions of the look on their faces.
Back now on the A896 I soon found a cafe and stopped for refreshment before the last easy bit! From Kishorn it's up and down to Lochcarron and at this point I wished there was still a ferry at Stromferry as the alternative is to ride right around the loch and through Strathcarron. This part is alongside the water and flat but seems to take an age. I stopped in Lochcarron for some food, not knowing what I would find at Plockton.
From Strathcarron it's up and down a steep hill to Attadale Station where I stopped and sat on the platform for a while and ate a bar of chocolate. My legs were starting to feel the effort of climbing the Pass of the Cattle and little did I know that the next 20 miles was really tough. The map shows the road following the railway but where the railway is alongside the water, the road keeps going hundreds of feet up through the trees and then back down again. Each time I thought that was it another hill loomed up.
Eventually at Stromferry you turn off on to a beautiful minor road to Plockton. Even this road is very up and down but the scenery is magnificent. The hostel at Plockton is right on the railway line and opposite the station and the hostel itself looks exactly like a signal box so I assume it was built on the sight of the old one. You could certainly arrive here by train to start your cycling holiday.
Back now on the A896 I soon found a cafe and stopped for refreshment before the last easy bit! From Kishorn it's up and down to Lochcarron and at this point I wished there was still a ferry at Stromferry as the alternative is to ride right around the loch and through Strathcarron. This part is alongside the water and flat but seems to take an age. I stopped in Lochcarron for some food, not knowing what I would find at Plockton.
From Strathcarron it's up and down a steep hill to Attadale Station where I stopped and sat on the platform for a while and ate a bar of chocolate. My legs were starting to feel the effort of climbing the Pass of the Cattle and little did I know that the next 20 miles was really tough. The map shows the road following the railway but where the railway is alongside the water, the road keeps going hundreds of feet up through the trees and then back down again. Each time I thought that was it another hill loomed up.
Eventually at Stromferry you turn off on to a beautiful minor road to Plockton. Even this road is very up and down but the scenery is magnificent. The hostel at Plockton is right on the railway line and opposite the station and the hostel itself looks exactly like a signal box so I assume it was built on the sight of the old one. You could certainly arrive here by train to start your cycling holiday.
The hostel is about a mile up above Plockton seafront but after a shower I set off down the hill to find a pub-and a very nice pub it turned out to be. The plan was to have a quick drink and then back to eat but the food looked good and it was warm and comfortasble so I ate in the pub instead. I was joined by another cyclist who had arrived by car at the hostel and was going to spend a few days cycling around the area.
As I wandered back to the hostel later a couple came rushing out of a restaurant to ask how I was getting on. We had met in Gairloch a few days earlier. They had driven 80miles while I'd cycled well over 100. While walking up the hill my legs began to wobble so might have to rethink route to Mallaig tomorrow. Today was one of those days that was brilliant when you were sitting with a pint going over the route in your mind. It had been a real adventure and some of the views will be with me for life.
As I wandered back to the hostel later a couple came rushing out of a restaurant to ask how I was getting on. We had met in Gairloch a few days earlier. They had driven 80miles while I'd cycled well over 100. While walking up the hill my legs began to wobble so might have to rethink route to Mallaig tomorrow. Today was one of those days that was brilliant when you were sitting with a pint going over the route in your mind. It had been a real adventure and some of the views will be with me for life.
Day 41: Plockton to Mallaig 31 miles
After my wobbly legs of yesterday I decided to use the Skye Bridge today instead of the long detour to the Kylerhea Ferry which would have meant a lot of hills again. I was trying to be sensible and it was the price for cycling up from Applecross without stopping.. never mind you've got to leave something to explore another time.
A steep hill out of Plockton and then a lovely little up and down ride into Kyle of Lochalsh where I didn't stay still for long as the midges were out. Over the bridge which is a steep hill in itself and then along the A87 to Broadford to pick up some food as I was told there was nothing along the A851 to Armadale. A good takeaway and a large
Co-op in Broadford before back to the junction of the A851 and an easyish ride, with the wind behind down to the ferry.
Met a lady cyclist from Devon who was heading for Ardnamurchan in the next few days like me.Stopping and chatting to other cyclists was a highlight of most days. Skye is beautiful but it is difficult to enjoy the views because every time you stop the midges descend. While waiting for the ferry they were all over me and my neck and back of my knees were soon covered in little lumps.
The ferry journey was only 30 minutes but very enjoyable with great views. Mallaig was smaller than I'd expected but was a bustling town as I suppose it's the only town for miles. As soon as I arrived met another group of Devon cylists who had driven up to Fort William and now were off on a 10 day tour of the Western Isles.
The backpackers is above a cafe and very good-if you are coming here by train it's only a matter of yards and not much further from the ferry. www.mallaigbackpackers.co.uk
A steep hill out of Plockton and then a lovely little up and down ride into Kyle of Lochalsh where I didn't stay still for long as the midges were out. Over the bridge which is a steep hill in itself and then along the A87 to Broadford to pick up some food as I was told there was nothing along the A851 to Armadale. A good takeaway and a large
Co-op in Broadford before back to the junction of the A851 and an easyish ride, with the wind behind down to the ferry.
Met a lady cyclist from Devon who was heading for Ardnamurchan in the next few days like me.Stopping and chatting to other cyclists was a highlight of most days. Skye is beautiful but it is difficult to enjoy the views because every time you stop the midges descend. While waiting for the ferry they were all over me and my neck and back of my knees were soon covered in little lumps.
The ferry journey was only 30 minutes but very enjoyable with great views. Mallaig was smaller than I'd expected but was a bustling town as I suppose it's the only town for miles. As soon as I arrived met another group of Devon cylists who had driven up to Fort William and now were off on a 10 day tour of the Western Isles.
The backpackers is above a cafe and very good-if you are coming here by train it's only a matter of yards and not much further from the ferry. www.mallaigbackpackers.co.uk
It had only been a short journey today and I was in Mallaig quite early so it was nice to have half a day to wander around and do not a lot. There was a German cyclist staying at the hostel and in the middle of the night I heard someone else come in to the room. Next morning found it was a girl from New Zealand who had arrived on the last train and was here to work for the summer- hope she didn't have to stay in the men's dorm all summer. She had come in in the dark and had slept on top of the German-so to speak- eventhough there were empty bottom bunks. She must have wandered what she had let herself in for.
Day 42 Mallaig to Strontian 54miles
Having a bit of spare time yesterday enabled me to come up with a cunning plan for the next few days. Today I should be heading out to Ardnamurchan but if you look on the map it means cycling out and back along the same road so I decided to turn it into a circular route. Today I would head for Strontian where they had vacancies at the hostel. Tomorrow I would cycle to Lochaline and across onto Mull and up to Tobermory and then the next day across to Ardnamurchan and back around to Strontian where I'd left half my luggage. This is why I don't like booking accomodation too far in advance as you can surprise yourself and stop and start when you feel like it.
Stoked up for the day with porridge,frosties and toast. Made cheese andd jam sandwiches and all the above from the free shelves. You know, you could do a hostel tour of Britain surviving on the stuff other people leave behind.
The first 20 miles today more or less followed the A830 as far as Lochailort and went past beautiful sandy bays at Morar and Arisaig before becoming hillier as it moves inland nearer Lochailort. Once past Lochailort the road follows the shores of the loch and I stopped on the side of the road looking over the sea to Eigg and Muck. There was a breeze here to keep the midges off and I could easily have fallen asleep in the sunshine.
Stoked up for the day with porridge,frosties and toast. Made cheese andd jam sandwiches and all the above from the free shelves. You know, you could do a hostel tour of Britain surviving on the stuff other people leave behind.
The first 20 miles today more or less followed the A830 as far as Lochailort and went past beautiful sandy bays at Morar and Arisaig before becoming hillier as it moves inland nearer Lochailort. Once past Lochailort the road follows the shores of the loch and I stopped on the side of the road looking over the sea to Eigg and Muck. There was a breeze here to keep the midges off and I could easily have fallen asleep in the sunshine.
Just around the corner was Glenuig where the Inn has a backpackers. There was a sign saying teas and lunches in Glenuig Hall but i didn't stop. There was a hut by the side of the road that acts as a village store and post office but it was closed today.
From Glenuig a steep hill takes you into Moidart and then a long downhill takes you to the shores of Loch Moidart. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed in July 1745. He only had seven men with him but the clans rallied to his side and he succeded in taking Scotland and was almost in London before his men decided it was time to go home. Later of course it all went wrong at Culloden. In a field here 7 beech trees were planted although some blew down in a storm and had to be replanted.
From Glenuig a steep hill takes you into Moidart and then a long downhill takes you to the shores of Loch Moidart. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed in July 1745. He only had seven men with him but the clans rallied to his side and he succeded in taking Scotland and was almost in London before his men decided it was time to go home. Later of course it all went wrong at Culloden. In a field here 7 beech trees were planted although some blew down in a storm and had to be replanted.
Lovely countryside here. Not the high mountains of the north but much more sheltered and lush. It was just after Ardmolich that on an inland hilly section I met the Mercian Man from Birkenhead. He was doing the same as me but was doing the second half this year after cycling from Kings Lynn around the south coast and back up to Birkenhead last year. He owns 4 Mercians-touring, audax,winter training and everyday use- I'm jealous really-could only afford one!
Acharacle came next and after 30 miles without a cafe here there were three and a pub and shop all within 100yards of each other. The takeaway I stopped at was excellent-The Bakehouse- and obviously very popualr with local workmen.Sat at a picnic table outside for a hot pork rolla nd a cup of tea. I took a blackcurrant pie to eat later with custard. There was a beautiful little bridge over the River Shiel as you enter the village.
Acharacle came next and after 30 miles without a cafe here there were three and a pub and shop all within 100yards of each other. The takeaway I stopped at was excellent-The Bakehouse- and obviously very popualr with local workmen.Sat at a picnic table outside for a hot pork rolla nd a cup of tea. I took a blackcurrant pie to eat later with custard. There was a beautiful little bridge over the River Shiel as you enter the village.
Inland again now and along the shores of Loch Sunart which was beautiful. At Resipole there is a caravan and camp site which would be a lovely place to stay if you are a cycling camper. Stopped for an ice cream at the camp shop-again though beware the midges. The loch is never ending and I stopped for a while at a nature hide overlooking the loch. Apparently otters can be regularly seen here.
Strontian had always appealed to me because of it's scientific connections- discovery of Strontium element. This little town was established in 1724 to house lead mine workers and by 1730 600 lived here. French miners discovered the mineral that Humphry Davy later isolated into the element Strontium. And by the way Humphry was born in Penzance where I live-so there-another bit of education for you.
As the only centre for miles Strontian has all you need including shop, pub, hotel, school- all set behind a large village green.
Strontian had always appealed to me because of it's scientific connections- discovery of Strontium element. This little town was established in 1724 to house lead mine workers and by 1730 600 lived here. French miners discovered the mineral that Humphry Davy later isolated into the element Strontium. And by the way Humphry was born in Penzance where I live-so there-another bit of education for you.
As the only centre for miles Strontian has all you need including shop, pub, hotel, school- all set behind a large village green.
The hostel is part of a cafe/shop complex called the Ariundle Centre and is almost brand new. Quite a lot of the people who stay here are science and geology students from various universities. I spent my first evening here talking to Martin Collins whose claim to fame was that he has stayed at Youth Hostel on mainland Britain. He has done this as part of his hill walking quest.Martin could remember everyone in detail. He has long ago done all the Munros and is now on Marilyns which are any hills standing 150m above it's surrounding countryside-there are thousands and a club has grown up around the quest. Not many people complete the lot as they include islands like St Kilda and surrounding uninhabited sea stacks .By the way Martin is in his mid 70s and had been here with a Marilyn Club group and had stayed on by himself and was going to do a few more on the way home.
www.rhb.org.uk -rhb stands for the book The Relative Hills of Britain
The other chap staying was Peter(67) and he had nearly killed himself today trying to cycle to Ardnamurchan and back. He got as far as Kilchoan but found it too hilly and turned back.
The hostel cafe is good if you don't want to cook but there's are also plenty of self catering facilities.
www.rhb.org.uk -rhb stands for the book The Relative Hills of Britain
The other chap staying was Peter(67) and he had nearly killed himself today trying to cycle to Ardnamurchan and back. He got as far as Kilchoan but found it too hilly and turned back.
The hostel cafe is good if you don't want to cook but there's are also plenty of self catering facilities.
Day 43: Strontian to Tobermory 41 miles
By breakfast Martin was going to stay another day to climb a few more Marilyns and Peter was going birdwatching as his legs hadn't recovered from nearly getting to the most westerley point. Martin had a few pints of homebrew before coming to bed last night and it turned out he had a couple of crates in his car.
Popped into the Strontian shopping centre for a supply of jam doughnuts and fruit. Had developed a real craving for doughnuts and the map looked empty this morning. The ride towards Lochaline was easy to start along the shores of Loch Sunart but at Liddlesdale the A884 turns inland and goes up and up into the wilderness. It was one of those challenges again that I couldn't resist.
Popped into the Strontian shopping centre for a supply of jam doughnuts and fruit. Had developed a real craving for doughnuts and the map looked empty this morning. The ride towards Lochaline was easy to start along the shores of Loch Sunart but at Liddlesdale the A884 turns inland and goes up and up into the wilderness. It was one of those challenges again that I couldn't resist.
As you get closer to Lochaline the land becomes much richer and sheltered-Gleann Geal. Lochaline was a bit of a surprise with a school of over 30 pupils, pub and a shop. Went into the dive centre for lunch and I thought this was a superb facility.Twin rooms, each with a mini wet room. £20 a night but well worth it. You can self cater or they cook for you. The owners were very friendly and also own a dive boat and self catering house in the village. Be happy to go back and stay. www.lochalinedivecentre.co.uk
The ferry crossing to Mull is lovely. A very friendly Dutch couple took my photo. She had broken her leg last year while on holiday in Cornwall. The wind blowing down the sound of Mull was freezing but as always the scenery stunning. As I left the ferry there in front of me was a golden eagle over the woods and a bit further up the road I stopped at a bridge and saw a kingfisher and a brief glimpse of an otter.
The ferry crossing to Mull is lovely. A very friendly Dutch couple took my photo. She had broken her leg last year while on holiday in Cornwall. The wind blowing down the sound of Mull was freezing but as always the scenery stunning. As I left the ferry there in front of me was a golden eagle over the woods and a bit further up the road I stopped at a bridge and saw a kingfisher and a brief glimpse of an otter.
The wind was in my face for the ride to Tobermory but was flat to begin with. Through Salen and then the hills begin with a very long climb 3 miles from Tobermory and then an equally long descent to Tobermory High Street-the beautiful coloured one. This really is a superb place so why in so many towns is coloured paint banned on houses. In Penzance for one houses in certain areas have to be white.
The hostel is lovely and right on the harbourside but turned out to be another noisy one. Tin of Smash on the free shelves so went to Co-op and bought two lamb chops and tins of carrots and peas. Added a bit of chilli powder to mashed pototo-lovely. Bought pack of two treacle sponges-one for today and one for tomorrow back at Strontian-ate both of them with custard. Well, cycling gives you a real appetite.
Went for a pint of real ale in a famous pub on the other side of the harbour but they only had bottled left. It was very nice golden beer from the Mull Brewery but it cost me £4 so I only had the one!
The hostel is lovely and right on the harbourside but turned out to be another noisy one. Tin of Smash on the free shelves so went to Co-op and bought two lamb chops and tins of carrots and peas. Added a bit of chilli powder to mashed pototo-lovely. Bought pack of two treacle sponges-one for today and one for tomorrow back at Strontian-ate both of them with custard. Well, cycling gives you a real appetite.
Went for a pint of real ale in a famous pub on the other side of the harbour but they only had bottled left. It was very nice golden beer from the Mull Brewery but it cost me £4 so I only had the one!