Day 22: John O Groats YH-Castletown-Thurso-Melvich- Strathy 40miles
The first day of our return journey and the first of Alison's end to end was horrendous. In the photo everything looks fine but what it doesn't show is the strength of the wind. We set off with the idea of reaching Bettyhill, about 55 miles away but it soon became obvious this was going to be a tall order. We travelled on the minor roads from the hostel to Castletown and there were times when Alison found cycling was impossible. The wind was due west and we were later to talk to two other end to enders who on the same day pushed their bikes for four hours. The 17 or so miles to Thurso took three hours and most of that is flat! By the time we got there I think Alison was ready to give up for the day, so we changed our plans- having had a good lunch in a cafe by the harbour I went off to the tourist office to look for closer accommodation and eventually booked us in to the Strathy Inn which was just over 20 miles away.
Photo Below: Alison battling the wind on the first day.
By about 2 o' clock Alison felt ready to set off again. We didn't follow the A836 as I had done on the way up but left Thurso on the B874 and then went via Westfield and Shebster to Reay. This is a much nicer route but still extremely hard cycling on this day. There is a good shop in Reay so we stopped there for tea before heading into the first real hills of the ride. The countryside now becomes truly highland and although the hills are demanding they tend to be zig zag alpine types and strangely pleasant after the flatness of the north east corner.
The A836 from Reay onwards is very quiet and the scenery barren but stunning on both sides. I've cycled this road three times now and I love it. Why cyclists persist on going up and down the A99/9 I've no idea. Alison was still finding the going really hard and it was 6 o' clock before we reached Strathy where there is one more very big hill to the inn. I dropped off my bags and then came back out with the camera to catch Alison battling the gale and slope to the pub!
The Strathy Inn has just been taken over by an English couple and was an excellent place to stay. The beer, food and company was first class and very welcome after such a hard if relatively short day. www.strathyinn.com
Photo Below: Mick the dog- owner and dog slightly laid back!
Mick and his owner live as lodgers in the purple house Alison is passing. Apparently the owner is a bit of a recluse who set off from northern England many years ago with a horse and cart. Unfortunately the horse had a heart attack coming up Helmsdale Hill and the man pulled the cart the rest of the way to Strathy himself.
Day 23: Strathy-Bettyhill- Altnaharra-Crask 42 miles
Next morning we left Strathy with the wind stll blowing but now more north west so we knew that once we turned down Strathnaver we would be alright. There are plenty more hills between Strathy and Bettyhill but the scenery makes up for it. We stopped at the viewpoint above Bettyhill and were joined by a Dutch couple in their campervan. They turned out to be very keen cyclists and immediately got out a big cake to share between us and then obliged by taking a photo of us both.
Below is a series of photos taken on this first part of the day betwen Strathy and Bettyhill.
Because we had booked into the Crask Inn tonight the plan was to have lunch and then spend an hour or so having a look around Bettyhill. As I mentioned on day 16 there are some lovely beaches here in the far north and this area would make a good base for a holiday. There is a hotel, a couple of B&Bs, with a cafe attached to the tourist information centre. We were at the cafe by 11a.m. just as it was opening and at the same time a small coach containing about 20 people arrived for morning coffee. Immediately the owner came out and said they couldn't come in as they hadn't informed him beforehand. There was a lot of muttering about Scottish hospitality and they went off up to the hotel. We went in and the owner was mumbling on about, "if I'd let them in they'd have eaten all the cakes"
I thought isn't that the point of making them-and he was employed by the tourist office-it was all a bit strange and embarrassing. I like the cafe-this was my third visit- but I'd be reluctant to go again.
Anyway, after a walk along the beach we set off up the hill to the hotel, down the other side, across the river and along to the start of Strathnaver. Once we turned south the wind was behind us and we almost reached Crask without peddling. I've said it before but this valley is a beautiful and a more or less flat ride you must give it a try. We met two other end to enders, who were sounding and looking really tired as they struggled up the valley into the wind and by coincidence were staying at the Strathy Inn that night. From Altnaharra there is a long stretch of gentle climbing out into the wilderness-there is a recommended B&B in the village if you cannot reach Crask.
When we got to Crask it was full of other guests and we were given the upstairs room in the cottage down the road. Downstairs were four mountain bikers and the Inn was full as well. The cottage facilities are basic but perfectly adequate and excellent value at £10 each. The evening meals back at the Inn are brilliant and you must try the Black Isle beer.
Below: The little church at Syre halfway down Strathnaver.
Day 24: Crask: Falls Of Shinn-Carbisdale-Ardgay- Tain-Nigg- Cromarty-Fortrose 65miles
After the first two windy days and the excitement of starting it was difficult getting Alison out of bed today!
After a lovely breakfast and a visit to the sheep dogs out the back we eventually set off and headed south. We hadn't travelled far when we met 3 cyclists going the opposite way and as usual we all stopped for a chat. They had stayed at Lairg the night before because the Crask Inn was full and whereas we now had the wind at our backs they were finding it a bit of a struggle.
Off we set again, flying down the gentle descent towards Lairg when around a corner came two more yellow jackets again we all came to a stop and all of sudden we realised it was the Scottish couple I had met at Lands End on day 1. The lady immediately dropped her bike on it's side and rushed over to me and threw her arms around me as if I was a saviour come to rescue them. They had been having a really bad time. The same wind that had been affecting us had blown them to a standstill the day before. They had pushed their bikes for 4 hours and had not arrived in Lairg until 9p.m. They were lovely people from Ayrshire-even older than us! We were on our third day going south having also been on the Orkneys and they were on day 24 going north with at least 2 or 3 to go but at least we could comfort them that when they reached Bettyhill they could put the sails up and be blown to JOG. They took our phone number but we haven't heard from them so if you recognise them from the photo below please let them know we have got back safely and ask them to contact us. It really boosted us to see them again I hope it was the same for them.
We had only gone about 3 miles down the road when Alison realised she'd left her sunglasses on the verge while taking the phot above and so leaving her there I rushed back to get them and then it was through Lairg and onto the B864 to the Falls of Shin-as I mentioned on the way up this is an excellent route and there is a good visitor centre and cafe.
You rejoin the A836 and then in a short distance come to the railway bridge with a pedestrian walkway on it's side that takes you to Invershin Station and Carbisdale Castle Youth Hostel. A great way to start a tour in Scotland would be to arrive here by train and stay at the castle on your first night or use it as a base.
Below:
Alison crossing the bridge
Spot Carbisdale Castle Youth Hostel
The back lanes from Carbisdale bring you out onto the A836 at Ardgay and we set off down the road to Tain-I had decided that although a fantastic view (see day 15) Struie Hill was a bit much for Alison. In Tain we had tea and cake before we headed for the Nigg Ferry to take us on to the Black Isle. This was a new route for me and I would recommend it to end to enders. www.black-isle.info/ferry/ The ferry starts at 8a.m.( 9am Sundays) and operates until 6.15pm (7.15 July/Aug) fare is £4 for you and your bike. The photo below shows Alison taking tentative steps up the slippery ramp on to the 2 car Nigg Ferry.
The ferry took about 20 minutes and then it was a decision whether to find somewhere to stay in Cromarty or cycle the 10 miles or so to Rosemarkie and Fortrose-although Cromarty looks like an interesting place we chose the latter to make tomorrow an easier day. In Fortrose we found a good B&B opposite the red stone ruins of the cathedral.(5 Cathedral Square 1381 621641 Mrs Campbell) That evening we had a meal in a very interesting pub called the Anderson. It is owned by an American who is an expert on whiskey and beers. In the pub he had over 200 malt whiskeys-some of them up to £30 a shot. He also had many bitters some of which were 15% proof-you weren't allowed to buy pints of those! I stuck to Black Isle Brewery-lovely.The food was excellent and good value-and although quite expensive the pub looked like an excellent place to stay. www.theanderson.co.uk
Day 25: Fortrose-Black Isle-North Kessock-Inverness-Culloden-Carrbridge 55miles
After breakfast we cycled out to Chanorry Point. This is one of the best places in Britain for close up views of dolphins and was featured on Springwatch this year. We had visions of a fantastic photo of us on our bikes with dolphins jumping in the background but alas there was a cold wind blowing and not one to be seen-have a look at www.charliephillipsimages.co.uk to see what we missed. Opposite Chanorry is Fort St George (see phote) that was built to guard the entrance to Moray Firth after Culloden.
We were reluctant to leave but it was time to give up on the dolphins and head across the Black Isle towards Inverness. This is an excellent route to cycle and as we were cycling along what should we come across but The Black Isle Brewery itself and as I'd been drinking the stuff for a fortnight we had to pay a visit. We were given a very informative tour and lots of free samples-you can have it delivered by post-highly recommended. All the beers are made from organic ingredients. www.blackislebrewery.co.uk I particularly liked Red Kite!
After the brewery we followed the signed cycle route to Munlochy and then the B9161-still the cycle route-and were taken into North Kessock where there is a good cafe. The weather had threatened but we only had light rain and as we got to the Kessock Bridge the sky was brightening. Alison had not been looking forward to high crossings and this one is not the easiest. You are extremely close to the traffic and the cyclepath is very rough and narrow with plenty of debris but we made it without mishap. (photo below)
It is important to stress again that you should not try to cycle the main road out of Inverness. It is an endless hill and extremely busy. We followed the cycle route signs from the bridge through the industrial estate and inti Inverness along the river. We then followed the signs for Culloden which takes you uphill through the outskirts of Inverness and eventually up a very steep hill to the battlefield where there is an excellent visitors centre. We stopped here for tea and cake and then set off along very scenic lanes that you can see on the map just east of but parallel to the B851. We passed the Clava Cairns and then joined up with the B9154 by which time the rain had come and so we sought shelter for a break. (photo below) The B9154 is an excellent route and takes you right into Carrbridge which was our planned stopping place for the night.As we approached Tomatin it was getting very cold and dark and here we met four Dutch cyclists heading for Inverness that night and suffering a lot more than we were. Next it was the Slocht Summit and as you can see from the photo below the conditiond were aweful by now.When we were a few miles away from Carrbridge I zoomed off ahead to find accomodation and got a bit worried to see No Vacancy signs in most of the B&Bs but eventually found a little bungalow at the far end of the village where I was given a lovely welcome by Shirley and her husband. I cycled back down to the other end of the village to find Alison and then we rushed in to get out of our soaking wet clothes. Shirley and her husband dried our clothes and locked our bikes in the garage. They recommended the Cairn Hotel for food and we had a good evening in there as it was full of Dutch and German tourists watching a European Championship soccer match and shouting at each other. B&B highly recommended -Cruachan-ring Shirley on 01479 841609
Day 24: Carrbridge-Aviemore-Kingussie-Newtonmore-Dalwhinnie-Blair Athol-Pitlochry
The following morning it was pouring with rain again so we played for time. Shirley's husband has got Sky Sports and I was allowed to watch the live rugby-England against New Zealand-and so it was about half past ten by the time we left the bungalow.The photo shows Alison coming in after she'd finished loading up the panniers-her waterproofs are better than mine!
I like Carrbridge and would certainly return but the next place you come to heading south is Aviemore and eventhough the rain had stopped I still didn't like the place anymore-as I said on the way up, it's like Newquay with skis. I'm not sure Alison has fond memories of Aviemore either because it was at this point that I lost her. As you head out of the town you come to a roundabout and I went straight on, heading for Kingussie, but unfortunately I was out of site down a dip before Alison got to the roundabout and because she couldn't see me she assumed I'd turned left and so off we went in different directions-I had the maps by the way.
After a couple of miles I pulled into a layby and waited for her to come round the corner but after a few minutes I cycled back to the roundabout-up a steep hill as well! I expected Alison to appear down the road any minute but once I got to Aviemore was getting a bit worried so called her mobile but no answer-as usual she hadn't turned it on yet. I asked several pedestrians and a cyclist if they'd seen a lone cyclist but she had disappeared into thin air.
After 10 minutes my phone went-it was Alison-"Where are you? I've been cycling like mad trying to catch you up. It's a bit scary in this pine forest."
Now it turns out that I'm on the B9152 and Alison is 5 miles down the B970. At this point luck was on our side because if you look at the map both will get you to Kingussie but mine is a fair bit quicker and so I was on my second cafetaire of coffee and had read the newspapers by the time we met again in a very nice cafe on the main street in the town.
Next it was on to Newtonmore and then another stop at the visitors centre at Ralia to use the free internet access to move some money into our current account as all the eating, drinking and B&Bs meant this was not the cheapest holiday in the world. The run from Newtonmore down the old A9 was brilliant as the wind was behind us and especially from Drummochter onwards it's all gently downhill-we met a couple going north and it was a real struggle for them. The broom was a fantastic site alongside the route.
I phoned the B&B I'd stayed at in Blair Atholl on the way up but they were full so with no real hope I phoned the Ferryman's Cottage in Pitlochry, where I'd had free ice-cream, and by pure chance they had just had a cancellation in one of their two rooms for that very night. We got there at 6.30 having done 67miles-although Alison had probably done over 70! Ferryman's Cottage is brilliant and is owned by Kath Sanderson who is helped by her Scottish piper friend who is a real gentleman. The place was featured this year in the Guardian's Finest B&B Guide. Have a look at www.ferrymanscottage.co.uk and see the beautiful surroundings-on the banks of the River Tummel. Just a few yards up the road is a dam with salmon ladder(see photo below) and acoss the pedestrian bridge is the town of Pitlochry- a very nice place. After a quick shower we ate at The Old Smiddy pub in the town.
Day 25: Pitlochry-Dunkeld-Bankfoot-Pitcairngreen-Almondbank-Perth-Kinross-60miles
It was very tempting to stay two nights at the Ferryman's as it was such a fantastic place and area but we made the decision to carry on but not before receiving more sponsorship from Kath and the other two guests staying that night. This trip had some lovely memories and this was certainly one of the best. In the photo below guess which one is the pipe major. The suspension bridge to town is in the background and the theatre is just to the right of the photo.
We left the B&B and followed the cyclepath uphill past the theatre and then along beautiful country lanes towards Dunkeld. As we approached Dunkeld I took Alison along the riverside track that runs through the grounds of the Hilton Hotel. On the way up I was cycling through a mass of bluebells (see day 13) but now there was not one to be seen.
Dunkeld is a very attractive town and we stopped here for coffee before stting off down the B898 to Bankfoot and then the signed cycle route to Pitcairngreen and Almondbank and here we met a pipe band warming up to play at the Almondbank fete.(photo below). This is a lovely route and if you follow the signs will eventually bring you to the banks of the Tay and a flat ride through the golf course and park into the centre of Perth. If you are coming from the south just find the river in Perth and follow the left bank north but don't lose your nerve when the route appears to be turning west- just keep following the signs.
We followed the A912 out of Perth and then at Bridge of Earn went on the minor lanes that zig zag around the M90. Here we had a stroke of luck as we came across a really good farm shop and cafe. We queued up for our food and drinks and when we got to the cashdesk there was a big sign stating that it was the Perth and Kinross cycle week and the farmshop was offering free refreshments to anyone who cycled there. It was the end of the week and I asked how many other cyclists had taken advantage of this-we were the only ones! Finally it was onto the B996 south to Kinross- a town on the shores of Loch Leven- and the same B&B I'd stayed in on day 13 and even the same pub.
P.S. By now Alison, as a virgin long distance cyclist, was feeling very tired and had a sore bum-but luckily she had the highly recommended cream!
Day 26: Kinross-Kelty-Inverkeithing-Forth Bridge-Edinburgh-Stow-Melrose-Newstead-70miles
Breakfast at Roxburghe House in Kinross is very good with a good selection of fish dishes. On the way up I had my first Arbroath smokie and this time I had kippers and Alison had haddock-Kinross is a good place to stay with several B&Bs, a fish and chip shop, takeaways and a pub or two. As I said before the northern end of the town has a more affluent feeling to it. Kinross is also a reasonably flat ride to or from the Forth Bridge and so good place to stop before or after the much hillier area around Edinburgh. There is a nice little cafe in Inverkeithing and a bike shop should you need anything.
When you reach the bridge going south you feel you in Edinburgh but it is quite a tough ride into the city and out the other side. I didn't tell Alison how hard today was going to be so you can see she looked happy on the bridge-she was going to look a lot more tired by teatime.
From the bridge we set off on the quiet signed cycle route but soon, for speeds sake, got onto Queensferry Road which although not pleasent, quickly gets you uphill into the city centre. We stopped here at a cafe under a church that Alison had found on her one day stay on the way up on the train.It was really hot by now and from the city centre it is one long uphill if you are heading south and it was halfway up this hill that we met a real Rab C Nesbit.
We had stopped at traffic lights outside a pub when Rab came staggering towards us. As he slurred in a very thick Scottish accent "What are you two doing?" My first thought was that we were about to be mugged. Anyway we explained that we were riding up and down the length of Britain and he said, "Somebody should pay you for doing that". So we then told him that people really were paying us and that all the money was for a children's hospice. He swayed about a bit then stuck his fag in the corner of his mouth put his hand in his pocket and pulled out a load of small change and handed it to us and said "It's all I've got left but you can have it." He then shook our hands and staggered off down the road-to sleep it off I presume. I wonder if he remembered when he woke up?
Most cyclists head South west from Edinburgh towards Moffat and Carlisle but we can highly recommend heading south east towards Galashiels. Once you get to Bonnyrigg it's relatively flat all the way down the A7 to Galashiels and Melrose. The road was quite busy but only gets a bit uncomfortable in a wooded winding section in the last few miles. If you look at the map there is a minor road running parallel to the A7 for a good part of it's length. I used this for part of the journey going north and it is very quiet but a lot more up and down. At Stow there is a good cafe and shops and from here you can go by minor roads all the way if you want but it is harder cycling. I knew today was going to be a hard one for Alison and so we just stuck to the main road.
By the way in Newtongrange on the A7 is the Scottish National Coalmining Museum which is well worth a stop. We didn't have time to do the full tour but there was good cafe there which was welcome after our hot climb out of Edinburgh.
What I hadn't told Alison yet was that the B&B I stayed at on the way up was full but they had put us onto a super place in Newstead-unfortunately when we got to Galashiels Alison was exhausted and thought we were there. I didn't let on we had another 10 miles to go and as we cycled through Galashiels and Melrose I just kept saying nearly there. Luckily when we got to Melrose it all got really exciting as all the roads were closed and people were lining the pavements as it was Melrose feast and this was one of those riding around the town boundry on horseback occassions. The police waved us through and people kept clapping and saying "Oh look a couple doing it on bikes!" Hilarious really.There was even a fancy dress pipe band.(photo below)
Newstead was a couple of miles past Melrose and the couple we stayed with used to run a B&B in the town but now just let a spare room in their retirement home-but it was absolutely lovely and because it was so nice and because Alison was tired we decided to stay two nights. On the way up I thought Melrose was one of the nicest towns I'd stayed in so I was quiet happy to explore as well. This whole border area really is super part of Scotland.
We had a quick shower and then our host offered to drive us back into Melrose with instructions to phone him if we wanted a lift back. There is a good youth hostel in Melrose if that suits you more.
Day 27 was our day off and was a lovely relaxing day reading the papers and drinking coffee-especially trying to recharge Alison's batteries as I knew(she didn't) that the Cheviots,Pennines, Dales and Peak District were coming up over the next week-beautiful but possibly asking a bit much.
Day 28: Melrose-Jedburgh-Carter Bar-Otterburn-Bellingham -45 hilly miles.
Rain was forecast and so after another photo outside our B&B we set off down the A68. I had come into Melrose on minor lanes and byways but as bad weather was on it's way we decided to stick to the main road as the highest border roadcrossing in and out of Scotland was coming up. We stopped in Jedburgh for coffee and rolls-again a really lovely looking small town-and then set off for the hills. On the way up I'd missed the views due to solid fog but as we started the climb up to the border the weather was still fine. The hill is not that steep but goes on and on zig zagging it's way up and up-I actually enjoyed going up it-stopping every now and then to take photos. The view from the top is stunning and the piper was still there tapping up the few tourists but the snack bar wasn't and as she was going up the hill I kept saying you can have a cup of tea at the top. Nevermind I knew there are two cafes in the next 10 miles. This is an excellent alternative route to consider.
For those that like downhills you will find the next few miles exhillerating-I'm not too keen myself-much prefering to go up them. Speed records could be broken here and once you reach the bottom there is a pleasent ride through the edge of the Keelder Forest to the army training ranges near Otterburn. Just before the town we turned onto the B6320 towards Bellingham. This last few miles is very hard and by now the sky was black and the wind was blowing hard straight into our faces. Lyn View (see day 10) was just as welcoming as on the way up and so was the pub-I had the curry again! Both come highly recommended.Not a pretty pretty village but I like Bellingham very much and again it has a youth hostel which on this day was full of archaology students from Exeter. By now it was pouring-we'd been very lucky-tomorrow was going to be the worst day of the whole trip-just as well we didn't know it yet.
Day 29: Bellingham-Hexham-Blanchland- Stanhope- Cotherstone- 55 very hilly miles
By the time we'd had breakfast the rain had stopped but the wind was still blowing. I tried to get us going a bit earlier than normal but it was still nearly 9 before we set off. The road down to Hexham is not bad at all with more down than up and so soon we had crossed Hadrians Wall and were having tea next to the tourist info centre in the town. This is where I knew the tough part started but I'd promised Alison the reward of a lovely lunch at the fantastic tea rooms in Blanchland(see day 10).
The hill out of Hexham on the B6306 is a stinker not only steep but long and with a poor surface-in fact this made coming down it a couple of weeks earlier a terrible experience; I was shaking and bumping all over the place. Eventually we reached the top but even then there are still plenty of ups and downs before you get to Blanchland.
This day has four definite sections -this being the second. Sections 2,3 and 4 are each about 14miles long which doesn't seem much and as I was prity fit by now this would have been a hard but perfectly comfortable day for me but for Alison this day was turning out to be rather unpleasent. Remember you kind of go up and down the Pennines twice on the B6278 going through Stanhope.We reached our lunchstop later than hoped and by now the wind was touching galeforce. Alison thought the worst was over but as some of you who live in this area may know Blanchland to Stanhope and then Stanhope to Cothelstone are spectacular but even harder and there is no shelter for miles. On the way up I'd felt chuffed by not being beaten by any hill on this day but going south was almost impossible. It blew, it rained, it hailed and it was freezing. Below are a series of pictures that make it look like a nice summer's day but I think you'll find Alison was ready to kill me at this point. We should really have called it a day in Stanhope by I knew how good our B&B in Cothelstone was and so wanted to press on. By the time we got there Alison was nearly dead and didn't speak to me for hours. The hill out of Stanhope is vitually impossible when you're loaded up and it was so windy by now I had to go ahead and then come back to help Alison push her bike. I bet we only averaged about 5 miles/hour in the afternoon-it was 7pm before we got to our destination. This is a truly beautiful route in perfect weather but only go this way if you are in for a challenge.
P.S. I loved it!
Photos below show me cool and happy at Blanchland and the rest are of Alison trying to get to the top of various hills to swear at me again.
As I said, the weather looks alright on most of them but you could hardly stand up! Lovely scenery though.
Day 30: Cothelstone- Barnard Castle-Richmond-Catterick Garrison-Masham- Ripon-45 miles.
By the next morning Alison was slightly recovered but it was still windy and rain was forecast so I knew a change of route was required. The original route was to go over the Dales to Leyburn and then down to Kettlewell but I realised that another day going uphills into the wind was just a step too far and so we stopped in Barnard castle to have a rethink. It was decided to go down to Richmond but then stay further east and head towards Ripon and this actually turned out to be a really easy route. We went along the A66 for a very short distance and then cut through to Barningham and Dalton as I had done on the way up this is a lovely bit of countryside and going south you have a long downhill into Richmond-here we stopped in the park for lunch.
Next it was onto Catterick Garrison with lots of young looking soldiers queuing up for taxis. They were carrying suitcases, presumably going off on leave after some tour of duty-interesting to see these days not one in uniform. From here there is a virtually straight minor road route down to Masham passing through Arrathorne, Newton le Willows and Halfpenny Houses-near the second of these we found an excellent farm shop and cafe.From Masham we took the A6108 straight into Ripon and began the search for a B&B eventually finding one that backed onto the River Ure. The place itself was not too bad but have you ever been in one of those establishments where they have carpet in the toilet and the whole room seems to smell of stale urine-grose! Before going off to the local pub we watched the weather forecast and heard, "After a bright start tomorrow, winds will increase and be accompanied by torrential rain, gusts up to seventy miles per hour can be expected." Oh dear! Another new plan needed.
If our accomodation had been "sweeter" we would have stayed in Ripon but after a bit of map studying we decided that in the morning we would make a quick dash down the A61 to Harrogate a place neither of us had been to and a decision that turned out to be one of our best.
Day 31: A quick 16 mile dash from Ripon to Harrogate.
The rain hadn't arrived by breakfast next morning so we set off early and rushed down the A61 into a steadily increasing wind. As you enter the town you are faced by a very steep hill and it was at the top of this that we stopped to ask advice from a local postman.This very friendly chap told us how lucky we were as up until the day before the town had been totally booked uo with some international festival. He directed us around a few tree lined side streets and into Alexandra Road where we halted outside Alexandra Court. Bit of a coincidence this as we live just off Alexandra Road in Penzance.
Alison went in to enquire about vacancies- the place looked a bit expensive to me- but having hesitated the lady agreed to take us eventhough it was still only mid morning. The place was beautiful inside and we were the only guests-they weren't going to take anybody this weekend as they'd had a busy week but they took pity on two old travellers! Our room was huge and it was one of those upmarket places with dressing gowns and no urine stained carpets and I must say after the trials and tribulations of the Penines it was nice to know we were here for two days. If you are planning a trip to Harrogate we highly recommend Alexandra Court.
www.alexandracourt.co.uk 01423 523151
We had a shower, washed a few clothes and then set off into town which is only a minute away. Our hosts lent us an umbrella as by now the wind and rain had come. Harrogate is a very appealing place, full of older tourists and tea shops. It was Saturday and Auntie Betty's Tearoom was full with a long queue outside and so we settled for a coffee morning at one of the churches and after a bit of an explore went back to the B&B for a snooze and to watch the sport on television. We nipped out later for a drink and something to eat in Weatherspoons and then back for an early night.
The next morning we had an excellent breakfast and then Alison went off to church to pray for my forgiveness for the pain I'd caused her. Outside the roads were covered in bits of trees that had been blown off in the storms. The wind was still howling but the rain had passed and so I bought a Sunday paper and enjoyed reading it while trying out cafetieres of diferrent coffees in a very nice tearoom-there was a queue outside Auntie Betty's even at 10am on Sunday morning.. The rest of the day was just spent lazing around preparing ourselves for the days ahead.
Day 33: Harrogate-Otley-Shipley-Bradford-Brighouse-Huddersfield-Holmfirth 45 miles
Another excellent breakfast and it was down the B6162 past Harlow Carr gardens and up and down the hills to Otley- a town we had been to before to watch the Cornish Pirates play rugby. As the photo left shows we came across a strange looking sheep before more scones and coffee and then up the A6038 to Shipley and a few hours of cycling through Northern towns we'd only seen on the news before. The roads here are quite hard cycling with long downs followed by equally long ups and a fair bit of traffic but it makes a change and was in some ways quite enjoyable. We actually went through the centres of Bradford and then Huddersfield using the A641. The only disappointment being that I missed the two kind ladies in the snack bar on the A629 near Howarth. (see day 8)
Despite the hills we made good time and reached Holmfirth by 3.30 and as I was now back on my upward route and knew the hills to come in the next 10miles we decided to call it a day and look for accomodation. I had a list in my trusty notebook and after a couple of calls found a vacancy in Holmbridge at the Cornloft- the owners also running the adjoining post office. Later we were given a choice between the Pink Room or Green Room- Alison went for pink and boy was it pink! Dark pink gloss over all the walls. Before cycling to it we had an explore for the obligitory photo outside Sid's Cafe. Unfortunately it was closed so we couldn't have a cup of tea with Nora Batty. We then called into the extremely friendly bike shop where I was happily lent a proper pump to get my tyres really hard again at last.
From our B&B, which was about a mile outside the town, it was a short level walk along the A6024 to a nice little pub-The Bridge Tavern next to the cricket pitch and more or less at the start of the climb of Holme Moss. A new landlady had just bought and done the place up. She was really proud of her pub and the food was very good.
This is quite a busy road and that spoilt the B&B a bit as cars zoomed towards Holm moss until late at night but it was far from being the worst of the trip. B&Bs on busy roads are a real disappointment after a day on the road.
Day34: Holmfirth-Langsett-Bradfield-Bamford--Heathersage-Bakewell 45 very hilly miles
From Holmfirth it is all uphill if you are heading south up on to the Peak District. We cycled back into Holmfirth and then onto the B6106 which warms you up with a long long climb but rewards you with fantastic views from the top. I waited at the top for Alison and a little old Yorkshire lady at the bus stop thought we were completely mad.(photo below shows Alison just rounding the last bend and reaching the top)
The sun was shining today and climbing that hill made me feel really good-think the cycling bug was really getting to me. We joined the A616 and headed for a very good cafe at Langsett. I'd stopped here on the way up and it seems by the photos on the wall to be a regular cyclists haunt. Today unfortunately they were suffering a powercut so food was limited-as you can probably tell by now I like to cycle from cafe to cafe and am becoming a bit of a cafe addict.
More or less straight opposite the cafe there is a minor road that takes you out onto the moors. This area has plenty of hills but is truly lovely cycling country. The minor road takes you past Wigtwizzle and Bradfield, eventually meeting the A57 where you turn right and have several miles of downhill to Bamford. An excellent route but far from easy. There is a pub-The Strines Inn-near Bradfield, to stop for a break.
We got to Bakewell just after 4pm only to find my favourite Honeybun cafe closed but we went to a lovely little deli where they served containers full of fresh mixed fruit and yoghurt-think our bodies were craving something fresh and cold after the day's hills.We then went to the tourist info. they came up trumps and found us a fantastic B&B at Laxford Cottages right on the banks of the River Wye. (photo below) The usual quick shower and off along the river bank for a walk and into Bakewell for a pint or two.
Day 35: Bakewell-Ashbourne-Burton-Cotton in the Elms- 49 miles
The B&B only has one letting room and breakfast is brought up to you and served at a table overlooking the river, very civilised. A quick photo by the packhorse bridge outside the cottage and we were off for another day that began with a climb over to Ashford on the B5056. This is a much better route than Ashford to Matlock that I'd used by accident on the way up-for a start you avoid Cromford Hill!
We stopped for lunch in Ashbourne-another very pleasent town- and then faced another climb out on the A52 before turning off on to minor roads and going through Yeavely, Alkmonton,Church Boughton and Foston. From here it is a straight run down the A511 into Burton. The tourist info office is situated in the brewery museum and they were extremely helpful. I asked for accomodation somewhere south of Burton and they gave me a list including Fern Cottage and as that was the name of our last dog we plumped for that and what a good choice it turned out to be. It was situated in Cotton in the Elms an excellent little village with good pubs within a mile or so. The young couple had only just started doing B&B and we would highly recommend a stay there, we were greeted with tea and cakes. One of their two rooms comes equiped with a mud/water bed! www.ferncottage.co.uk 01283 763306
Day 36: Cotton in the Elms-Tamworth-Meridan-Balsall Common-Stratford-Newbold on Stour 55miles
Today was to be an easy day-no rain, no wind and no real hills. After an excellent breakfast with homemade bread and jams we left Fern Cottage (pictured left) having had a qiuiet and restful night. We would certainly not hesitate to stay here again.
We followed minor roads and lanes south through very affluent looking villages such as Lullington, Clifton Campville and Thorpe Constantine. They were very pretty places but seemingly devoid of life with no shops or pubs, unless we just missed them. We stopped at Meridan-the centre of England- as I had done on the way up for photos in front of the cyclists memorial and found a good cafe just around the corner where the owner told us that many of the cyclists killed during the war came to grief because of the lack of car and street lights. Then it was along more minor roads skirting Warwick to Stratford on Avon. This is a very good cycling route with very quiet lanes but a little complicated and we regularly did liitle unplanned detours but that was part of the fun.
Stratford tourist office was again very helpful and found us a farm stay vacancy at Newbold on Stour, about 7miles further south. This was again an excellent B&B (photo below) and highly recommended, with two pubs serving food in the village. The Poplars, Mansell Farm 01789 450540 www.warks.co.uk has got photos etc. and details of other accomodation in this area.
Day 37: Newbold on Stour-Shipstone on Stour-Chipping Norton-Burford-Bibury-Cirencester 45miles.
Our luck was holding as we had another good weather day, with only a strongish wind causing problems. In fact considering the summer of 2008 was poor our whole trip was reasonably blessed. I felt sorry for those end to ending in July and August as the weather just seemed to get worse and worse.
Cycling through he Cotswolds is largely undemanding and being a tourist area there are plenty of cafes,village shops and places to stay. We stopped for coffee and cakes at a farm shop in Long Compton on the A3400 between Shipstone and Chipping Norton. We by-passed Chipping Norton and followed country lanes through Churchill and Sarsden before joining the A361 for a straight ride into Burford.
Burford is a very well to do town and the cafe just up from the library (photo left) does an excellent lardy cake and coffeee. By the way I only took a photo of the library because Alison works in the one in Penzance and I thought it looked cute!
Then we were on to Bibury to visit my friends at the Catherine Wheel who had been so generous to me on the way up. (see day 4) We were greeted by Lesley and James with free tea and sandwiches and told they were abut to leave the pub as it had beenn sold- I really hope they find themselves a place to settle and make their own they are excellent hosts. The pub was full of japanese tourists eating cucumber sandwiches-yes really- and jam and cream scones because their package tour always contains a real English tea.Bibury is one of the most popular visits on Japanese coach holidays.
Our last stretch of the day was into Cirencester where the first B&B we stopped at had vacancies but although comfortable turned out to be a bit noisy as people made their way home from nights out well into the early hours. By now it was raining and so we wandered off into town with a borrowed umbrella and had a nice evening, drinking and eating yet again. It is amazing what you can get away with when you've been cycling nearly everyday for 5 weeks.
Day 38: Cirencester-Corsham-Bradford on Avon-Radstock-Shepton Mallet-Keinton Mandeville (nr. Somerton) 70 miles
This was going to be a very eventful day but early on we had no problems as we left Cirencester on the A429 and headed south crossing the M4 and skirting west of Chippenham to reach Corsham by lunchtime. The streets of this lovely little town were packed with people and stalls selling all sorts of goods.Flags and bunting hung from every lampost but alas it was not to welcome us.
It was the last day of their week long festival and the street market was organised by the twinning association and had a strong French presence. We had lunch at a charity refreshments stall-cheap and cheerful. It was tempting to stay longer but we knew we had a fair way to go and plenty of hills ahead of us. I say we had a fair way to go but we did not know exactly where we actually were going!We set off out of town and found the B3109 that was to take us down to Bradford- a long downhill but of course a long uphill out again.We wound our way around country lanes and eventually found the Springleaze farm shop I'd stopped at on the way up-the owner telling us that we'd been featured in his local paper after I'd talked to him on the way up. After a pork pie salad we made our way through Norton St. Philip and down the A86 to Radstock. So far so good.
Next we headed down towards Shepton Mallet. As we got within a few miles I went on ahead to try and find somewhere to stay. I just missed the tourist information office but there was list of accomodation in the window so I started to ring some local B&Bs but they all seemed to be full. It was the fourth one that said "You do realise it's the Glastonbury Festival, don't you?"
Well actually I didn't but by the time Alison arrived I'd come up with a cunning plan. On the way up we'd skirted the edge of Glastonbury so after a quick look at the map I decided to avoid the madness by heading down the A37 and then turn right for Somerton. I was sure that as we got farther away from the Glastonbury Festival there would be plenty of vacancies.
Unfortunately my plan was totally dependent on the Glastonbury Festival actually being in Glastonbury. What I want to know is what fool decided to hold the Glastonbury Festival on the A37 on the way to Somerton. We were a bit tired by now but we cheerfully cycled on going past more and more police cars and road diversions until we went down a steep hill and found ourselves at one of the main entrances to the festival. Music blaring, surrounded by fields of tents and an army of security guards. So having thought we'd spent an hour putting 12miles between us and the festival we were now a hundred yards away.
Not really having a plan B we just had to keep going. I wouldn't have been too worried for myself but remember Alison is a lot older than me (6 months) and she was flagging a bit and having just come down a long hill the one in front of us was even longer and steeper. As we hit the B3153 I went ahead looking for B&Bs and had stopped on a corner by a large farm when a chap pulled up in a Landrover and asked what I was doing as he was a bit of a cyclist himself. I explained our predicament and he said the lady in the farm here is a member of farmstay and by pure she suddenly appeared as well. The chap went and had a chat and aother stroke of luck two of her guests had gone home early and she had a spare room. What a lovely place it was. A really old farm with huge barns around it and the accomodation was superb. Would highly recommend a stay- it's about 4 miles from Somerton at Kingweston. www.lowerfarm.net 01458 223237
There was one last twist to the story. It was about 6.30 by now so after the tea and cake we were kindly provided with we had a quick shower and cycled the mile or so back to Keinton Mandeville to the Quarryman Inn. To cut a long story short the pub was busy and we were warned there was bit of a waiting time for food. However we did not quite realise that the food would arrive at nearly 10 o' clock by which time I'd consumed several pints on an empty stomach and was a bit tiddly. By the time we'd finished it was dark and we had to cycle back with no lights. We were so tired by now we fell straight asleep and didn't even hear the other guests return in the early hours from the festival. All's well that ends well!
Day 39: Somerton-langport-Taunton-Wellington-Tiverton 50miles
Before heading off through Somerton (photo left) we had an eventful breakfast with our festival goer fellow guests. Both groups were older music lovers wanting the Glastonbury experience without the mud and toilets and so were retiring to luxury each night although they didn't get back until 3a.m. In fact the son of one group never made it to breakfast at all.
First they had a disagreement over Amy Winehouse with one couple thinking she was worth the entry fee all on her own and the other couple who said it was the biggest let down of their lives as she had obviously been high on drugs and only managed one proper song before more or less collapsing. They thought Alison and I were festival goers as well and were quite put out when I said I'd rather go to the dentist-I've become a grumpy old man.
Alison and I had chosen our breakfasts the night before and had ordered the kippers and when two Americans saw them asked if they could have them too. The landlady had already started cooking their full English breakfasts but put herself out and went to cook them some fish instead. However they didn't seem to have the hang of B&B breakfasts and when they'd had enough of trying to pull the fish off the bones-leaving most of it- asked for their fry ups. They were most put out when it was explained to them that it was either or. "Gee how am I going to survive the day?" Now as he was a bit on the large size it was tempting to say he could survive a month, but we bit our tounges and went to play with the dogs in the garden instead. It was nice to get back on the bikes and head off again.
Somerton is a beautiful small market town but we didn't stop long today and soon headed off down to Langport and the A378 and 358 into Taunton. A quick lunchstop and then through Wellington on the A38 and finally today along country lanes through Uffculme and Halberton to Tiverton where we found a B&B right on the bridge over the River Exe. Yet another quick shower and into Weatherspoons for a cheap Sunday evening meal.
This was to be one of those noisy disturbed sleep nights but not for the usual traffic reasons because we'd asked for a room at the back-clever we thought. Unfortunately the room looked over the church which had a large clock on the tower and it chimed every quarter of an hour, but of course they always stop the chimes at midnight, well they didn't it went on throughout the whole night!
Day 40: Tiverton-Exeter-Okehampton-Launceston
From Tiverton we headed out on the A396 to Bickleigh. This is a very low lying road following the Exe and last year I'd come down this along the white line with water nearly to the top of my wheels with traffic lined up either side of me. On the way up I'd cycled over the hills from Crediton but knew this would be too much for Alison and so we carried on down the road to Exeter and what an easy ride that is copared to Bickleigh Hill. We had a bacon roll at the snack bar opposite the station and found our way on to the old A30 and again this is a really pretty route and not too difficult. In my younger days I can remember being stuck for hours in cars on this road before the new A30 was built but what a difference now. The villages you go through are lovely and must be so much different to live in now they are almost traffic free.
We stopped at the tourist office in Okehampton which is up an alleyway with a nice little cafe opposite. The tourist office phoned ahead to Launceston for us while we had lunch and booked us into Glencoe Villa Guest House. They also gave us a tip about using the Granite Way Cycleroute out of Okehampton. It turned out to be very good but they forgot to tell us about the hill up to it's start-you can see Alison jogging her up in the photo below. It's 11 miles long and starts at Okehampton Railway Station and goes to Lydford eventually- so you have to come off it sometime after the Meldon Viaduct(photo below) Well worth a little detour-flat and picturesque. More details at www.visitdevon.co.uk
As you leave Okehampton and approach Launceston the route does get a lot hillier. We passed three young but quite large cyclists, going the opposite way, who looked totally done in. If this was there 2nd day going to JOG I'm not sure they will have made it. We past Jethro's club, entered Cornwall at Polson and climbed the long hill into Launceston. We had directions to the B&B that started from the town arch and so we stood with our back to the arch as per the directions and started to follow the directions. Left into. right into , left by the school etc. up the steep hill then turn right then down the hill and the B&B is on your right and there it was, right by the archway we'd started from. The archway it turns out is part of the one way system and the directions are for car drivers we could have just walked through the arch and we would have been there instead of doing a complete circuit of the town! More showers, more food and more pints but not before listening to the weather forecast which told us tomorrow would start fine but that by lunchtime it would be pouring down and there would be a very strong westerly wind.
B&B- Glencoe Villa, 13, Race Hill, Launceston. 01566 775819 -recommended
Day 41: Launceston-St Stephen-Egloskerry- Camelford-St Kew Highway-Egloshayle-Wadebridge 40miles(we got lost again)
As you can see from the photo next morning was sunny and bright and overnight we had devised a plan. Getting to Lands End in one go into the wind was going to be a bit much and we didn't want to arrive late because people from the charity wanted to be there to welcome us back and so we decided to have an easy day and head for Wadebridge. We spend quite a lot of time in the Wadebridge area fishing and really like the town and so we thought a night there and then a 50/60 mile run to Lands End tomorrow when the rain had gone through would be ideal. A quick call to a friend to get on the internet and find us somewhere to stay and we cycled out of Launceston on the A388 and then turned left on to the minor roads through St. Stephen and Egloskerry meeting up with the A395 near Hallworthy. It is another very steep hill out of Launceston but once on the top the route is relatively easy.
Once we had joined the Atlantic Highway we headed towards Camelford and the National Cycling Museum-well worth a visit. It has an amazing collection of bikes and equipment-didn't think I'd like it much but found it fascinating. Some of the early oil lamps for bikes look heavier than a modern bike. They've got collections of early bike brochures and almost every aspect of the history cycling you can think of is covered-no cafe though, what a shame. Really the collection deserves a lottery grant to update the accomodation-which used to be Camelford station pre Beeching.
After our visit it was down into Camelford for lunch which is not a good idea because the only way out is up and it twice as hard to take if you come out of Camelford on the wong road and end up nearly back in Davidstow. Never mind it's all part of the memories and was not to be the last mistake today.
Anyway back on the Atlantic Highway, past Camelford again and on towards Wadebridge with the sky getting darker and the wind stronger. As we approached the town we took a left and followed lots of narrow lanes that eventually brought us out near Washaway-miles from where we were supposed to come out-my map must be wrong! Up the steep hill and down the hill and we end up in Egloshayle and then along the river into Wadebridge to find our accomodation.
Now my friend had found us B&B at Bodieve and said it was near the town centre so we stopped by a taxi rank and asked. " It's a mile up that hill," he said. An hour earlier we'd been up there but came down to the river via the back lanes adding nearly 10 hilly miles to our journey, but there was to be a happy ending.
When we got to the place, we were met by Pete a very friendly local who's first words were "Your friend told me what you were doing and I was expecting a young couple." He then went on to show us to a beautiful self contained holiday flat. Rather than give us his B&B room he said because of what we were doing we could use the flat for the night -what a lovely man. It was pouring down by now but he lent us umbrellas and we walked a mile and a half to a pub by the river only to find it wasn't open for another hour and so we went back to a pub we'd passed a mile back-The Ship Inn. As we walked in there was another end to ender drinking Guiness and having a meal. It was tipping down and he had something like 20 miles to go still and mostly uphill -must admit I like to get to where I'm going before I settle down. Just one more boring coincidence is that when we got back to our local pub in Penzance-The Bath Inn- we found out that Pete and Sue used to be the landlords of The Ship and Pete and Annie that we stayed with were their best friends-well it is a small world-hope you're still with me!
Bodieve Farm Cottage-01208 813082 B&B and self catering -Pete Scarborough
One way or another today I think we cycled and walked an extra 20 miles which was quite good really as the day might have been too easy.
Day 42: Wadebridge-Newquay-Redruth- Camborne-Hayle-Penzance- Lands End and back to Penzance 60 miles
The rain had more or less past through as we said goodbye to Pete and Annie and set off to make Lands End for a 5 o'clock finish. We stuck to the main road to Newquay and stopped for coffee at the rowing lake cafe and then cycled the A3075 to the Blackwater Rounabout and then cut down to Blackwater on the old A30 for a stop at the famous Smokie Joe's transport cafe-brilliant place but no longer smokey. Straight into Redruth and then through Pool to Camborne where a man up a ladder shouted to us-it was a window cleaner friend who had sponsored us and rushed across the road to shake our hands-really felt like the end of the journey now.
We cycled through Hayle and stuck to the main road into Penzance where a few more car horns greeted us-don't know who they were. Along the promenade-by far the best way to go-don't use the by-pass. A quick stop at the fishing tackle shop near to our own house and out on the last 10miles. The picture below shows Alison coming up the very last hill of the adventure, just before Crows an Wra.
A few miles to go: you seem to want to go faster and faster but at the same time you don't want it to end. I'd been away for six weeks and could easily have turned around and done it again. Soon we were passing Sennen School and the First and Last Pub with people who were coming to meet us tooting as they drove past. This is one advantage of living at either end of the journey-once you get there you are home. At John o Groats we saw several people finish, sit down for half an hour and then cycle off to Thurso or Wick to catch a train. If you can spare the time spend a night near the finish and enjoy the moment.
Anyway around the final bend and down to the finish line! Never meant to do it once and now I've done it three times and Alison certainly never thought she'd do it.
Altogether I cycled about 2400 miles and Alison about half that so we certainly didn't use a short route but we loved nearly every minute! Not one puncture this year not one puncture last year-touch wood.
P.S. After a bit of chatting I jumped on my bike and cycled back home to Penzance-Alison got a lift-lazy bugger.