Day 16: Heacham(nr Hunstanton) to Skegness 82 miles
Getting ready to set off from the holiday cottage was very difficult. Alison was loading up the car to go home and it would have been very easy to jump in and go with her. I set off a few minutes before she did and as I headed down the road to Kings Lynn she drove past hooting the horn and waving, with the dog in the back. Half of me was hoping she was going to pull into the next layby but she carried on and just as well really because I was feeling very unsure about carrying on with the trip at the moment.
In Kings Lynn I was unable to add to my ferry list as the ferry here doesn't run on Sundays- but I did go to the landing stage if that counts. I stopped for a coffee at Green Quay in the Wash Info. Centre and then set off on a cycle path up the River Ouse to the bridge across the river.
Once out of town it was over the River Nene at Sutton Bridge and into the flat farmland of the Fens and past fields full of broad beans and through the villages of Lutton, Gedney Dyke, Holbeach St Matthew and Holbeach St Marks. The land here is such a contrast to my home in Cornwall and the first time I'd been to this area, only knowing about it from pictures in o' level geography books. There was only a light wind but mini dust tornadoes were blowing across the fields-it must be cold here in winter. Cycling this flat countryside should be easy but I find it quite difficult with a dead straight road stretching for miles in front of you. Bring back bends and hills!
In Kings Lynn I was unable to add to my ferry list as the ferry here doesn't run on Sundays- but I did go to the landing stage if that counts. I stopped for a coffee at Green Quay in the Wash Info. Centre and then set off on a cycle path up the River Ouse to the bridge across the river.
Once out of town it was over the River Nene at Sutton Bridge and into the flat farmland of the Fens and past fields full of broad beans and through the villages of Lutton, Gedney Dyke, Holbeach St Matthew and Holbeach St Marks. The land here is such a contrast to my home in Cornwall and the first time I'd been to this area, only knowing about it from pictures in o' level geography books. There was only a light wind but mini dust tornadoes were blowing across the fields-it must be cold here in winter. Cycling this flat countryside should be easy but I find it quite difficult with a dead straight road stretching for miles in front of you. Bring back bends and hills!
Crosskeys bridge was buit in 1897 as aroad and rail bridge but now just carries the A17 as the railway closed in 1965. The story of the Victorians trying to build a dock here is very interesting as the first one slid into the river a few days after it opened and no one tried again for 100 years.
Once over the River Welland it was another zig zag of lanes before approaching Boston where my ride nearly ended in Boston Hospital as someone opened a car door right in front of me and only a violent swerve saved me by a coat of paint-the door opener screamed in shock. Boston docks was full of ships and fishing boats but the sea feels miles away-I wondered what kind of cargoes all those ships carried and presume there must still be a large fleet of small ships moving all sorts of goods around Britain and Western Europe.
It was getting breezy as I left Boston on the A52 and then via country lanes to Wrangle and on up the A52 to Wainfleet All Saints where there were lots of pubs and a Brewery but no sign of a B&B or I might have stayed here.
So it was on into Skegness with it's hundred fish and chip shops with an amusement arcade next to each one.There were the usual boy racers roaring around the streets for no particular reason and a cold wind blowing in off the North Sea. The crowds here in August would be too much for me but in early May it was quiet and had a very good Weatherspoons with plenty of real ale choices at £1.59 a pint. Breakfast in the B&B was served at 10 'clock in the morning so I assume the normal guests are not early risers.
Once over the River Welland it was another zig zag of lanes before approaching Boston where my ride nearly ended in Boston Hospital as someone opened a car door right in front of me and only a violent swerve saved me by a coat of paint-the door opener screamed in shock. Boston docks was full of ships and fishing boats but the sea feels miles away-I wondered what kind of cargoes all those ships carried and presume there must still be a large fleet of small ships moving all sorts of goods around Britain and Western Europe.
It was getting breezy as I left Boston on the A52 and then via country lanes to Wrangle and on up the A52 to Wainfleet All Saints where there were lots of pubs and a Brewery but no sign of a B&B or I might have stayed here.
So it was on into Skegness with it's hundred fish and chip shops with an amusement arcade next to each one.There were the usual boy racers roaring around the streets for no particular reason and a cold wind blowing in off the North Sea. The crowds here in August would be too much for me but in early May it was quiet and had a very good Weatherspoons with plenty of real ale choices at £1.59 a pint. Breakfast in the B&B was served at 10 'clock in the morning so I assume the normal guests are not early risers.
Day 17: Skegness to Cleethorpes 48 miles
As breakfast was served so late I went into town first to get my reading glasses fixed in Spec Savers and I must say their customer service is brilliant. The screw threads had gone so they phoned up my branch in Penzance to find the info they needed and then within minutes sorted out a new frame for me. The lady asked me about my trip and then said she'd never moan again about riding into work each day.
Down on the seafront it was like being in a Saharan sand storm as the wind was howling and after breakfast I set off up the A52 past Butlins, with it straight in my face. Once you reach Chapel St Leonards you can follow a lovely minor road all along the coast with high sand dunes seperating you from the sea and also providing good shelter from the wind. The road was lined in parts with beach huts and caravans- the real British seaside scene. The sea was chocolate brown today and it was freezing but I'm sure later in the summer it would be lovely-if a bit crowded.
Down on the seafront it was like being in a Saharan sand storm as the wind was howling and after breakfast I set off up the A52 past Butlins, with it straight in my face. Once you reach Chapel St Leonards you can follow a lovely minor road all along the coast with high sand dunes seperating you from the sea and also providing good shelter from the wind. The road was lined in parts with beach huts and caravans- the real British seaside scene. The sea was chocolate brown today and it was freezing but I'm sure later in the summer it would be lovely-if a bit crowded.
I've got to say that Mablethorpe was not very pleasing to the eye. Who gives the planning permission for these seafront buildings. Even fish and chip shops and amusement arcades can be housed in better looking buildings-were architects really involved in some of these developements. The wind was still blowing and I had a job finding somewhere sheltered to eat my lunch and so did all the other retired couples.
From Mablethorpe you have to take the A1031 but it is a very quiet main road. I made a detour to Tetney lock and had a break on the canal bank. This is the Louth Navigation that was opened in 1770 and was used right up until 1924 whan the Louth floods finally put an end to it commercially. A local group are now restoring it for leisure activities. It's amazing the things you learn about.
Back on the main road to Humberston and then on a cycle route across a park with a fishing lake and into Cleethorpes. Could have gone farther today but didn't really want to cross over the Humber in the evening and end up in Hull so Alison found me an excellent B&B in Cleethorpes just off the seafront and round the corner from the library. I take pictures of libraries because my wife works in one! And of couse it proves I was there.
Not a hill in sight again today and you get to a point where you crave one if you are used to cycling in Cornwall. The people in the B&B asked where the rest of my group was staying. It was amazing on this trip how many people couldn't believe I was on my own. Excellent B&B www.jedburghguesthouse.co.uk
Back on the main road to Humberston and then on a cycle route across a park with a fishing lake and into Cleethorpes. Could have gone farther today but didn't really want to cross over the Humber in the evening and end up in Hull so Alison found me an excellent B&B in Cleethorpes just off the seafront and round the corner from the library. I take pictures of libraries because my wife works in one! And of couse it proves I was there.
Not a hill in sight again today and you get to a point where you crave one if you are used to cycling in Cornwall. The people in the B&B asked where the rest of my group was staying. It was amazing on this trip how many people couldn't believe I was on my own. Excellent B&B www.jedburghguesthouse.co.uk
Day 18: Cleethorpes to Withernsea 75 miles
Cleethorpes Pier
You can see Spurn Point from here and if there was a ferry it would cut off 40 miles but there isn't anymore and so it was off to the Humber Bridge and Yorkshire.
Awake at 6am as seems usual on this trip. Listened to Radio 4 and then a lovely breakfast at Jedburgh B&B. Got talking to another guest who took my web address to send to friends in Australia who were planning to come over and do an end to end. Chatting meant I didn't set off until after 10 which had a knock on effect all day.
Grimsby was busy and I didn't see much of the place as I seemed to be on the by pass (A180) not a great idea. Eventually found my way onto the A1136 and then the B1210 which was a lovely cycling road. Went through Healing, Stalingborough and Immingham. Joined the A1077 and then came across a huge truckstop with all sorts of facilities. Had anice cup of tea to calm down after the traffic stress.
Went through Barrow upon Humber and then stopped in Barton Upon Humber where i found a brilliant deli type shop and had the most fantastic hot pork, gravy and apple roll. I got in a right mess eating it but it was lovely nonetheless. There were lots of people coming and going so it is obviously a well known place, highly recommended. This was followed by a huge chunk of fruit gateux and coffee. Have decided to try to eat more in the daytime and less late in the evenings.
Awake at 6am as seems usual on this trip. Listened to Radio 4 and then a lovely breakfast at Jedburgh B&B. Got talking to another guest who took my web address to send to friends in Australia who were planning to come over and do an end to end. Chatting meant I didn't set off until after 10 which had a knock on effect all day.
Grimsby was busy and I didn't see much of the place as I seemed to be on the by pass (A180) not a great idea. Eventually found my way onto the A1136 and then the B1210 which was a lovely cycling road. Went through Healing, Stalingborough and Immingham. Joined the A1077 and then came across a huge truckstop with all sorts of facilities. Had anice cup of tea to calm down after the traffic stress.
Went through Barrow upon Humber and then stopped in Barton Upon Humber where i found a brilliant deli type shop and had the most fantastic hot pork, gravy and apple roll. I got in a right mess eating it but it was lovely nonetheless. There were lots of people coming and going so it is obviously a well known place, highly recommended. This was followed by a huge chunk of fruit gateux and coffee. Have decided to try to eat more in the daytime and less late in the evenings.
From Barton there was an excellent cycle route to the Humber Bridge. The wind was howling and as I approached the water in the river was just like a ploughed field. There is something quite exciting about crossing these huge bridges but the downside is that all of them seem to be a magnet for those so desperate that they want to commit suicide and as I got to the middle you could see a line of wind blown bouquets hanging from the railings.
One I stopped to look at had this note attached:
Dear Paul. You left us without saying goodbye. Love you always Lauren, Aimee and Marcus.
This was a sight I saw on every one of the larger bridges I crossed and as I write there has been the recent tradgedy of the two girls in Glasgow.
Once over the bridge there was again a cycle path along the river towards the centre of Hull but either it only goes part of the way or I lost it as I soon found myself on busy roads with the usual shouts of abuse every now and again. The river frontage describes itself as "Hull's Best Kept Secret". Once in the city I just kept trying to follow the river and after walking over some waste ground luckily came across a very helpful angler called Tommy who gave me instructions on how to get out of Hull and on to Spurn Point. The dockside is a mixture of old ruined wharves,new marinas and posh looking housing.The new promedades were built in the 80s and 90s. Looking at the brown river rushing by you have to wonder where they sail all the expensive boats I saw.
One I stopped to look at had this note attached:
Dear Paul. You left us without saying goodbye. Love you always Lauren, Aimee and Marcus.
This was a sight I saw on every one of the larger bridges I crossed and as I write there has been the recent tradgedy of the two girls in Glasgow.
Once over the bridge there was again a cycle path along the river towards the centre of Hull but either it only goes part of the way or I lost it as I soon found myself on busy roads with the usual shouts of abuse every now and again. The river frontage describes itself as "Hull's Best Kept Secret". Once in the city I just kept trying to follow the river and after walking over some waste ground luckily came across a very helpful angler called Tommy who gave me instructions on how to get out of Hull and on to Spurn Point. The dockside is a mixture of old ruined wharves,new marinas and posh looking housing.The new promedades were built in the 80s and 90s. Looking at the brown river rushing by you have to wonder where they sail all the expensive boats I saw.
Following Tommy's instructions I set off and soon had to carry my bike up 38 steps and then 38 steps down. Past the floating docks and the ferry terminal, a wrong turn into a dock where a security guard ordered me out and eventually onto the A1033 Withernsea road. Went through Thorgumbald and Keyingham and on to Patrington before getting on the B1445 to Spurn.
Now remember I'd left Cleethorpes late and by now it was 5 o'clock and what I should have done was knock on the door of one of the B&Bs I passed but I was determined to reach Spurn and then Withernsea but it was alll abig mistake.
First of all I cycled happilly out onto the start of Spurn Point but after onle a few hundred yards ground to a halt in loose sand several inches deep. Now most of you will know that loose sand is impossible to cycle in and I was still nearly 3 miles from the end so it would have meant parking the bike and walking a round trip of over 5 miles. Reluctantly I decided to take photo from where I was and set off for Withernsea and here was my second and even bigger mistake.
As people all along the Yorkshire coast told me for the next few days when I related the story:
"You don't want to go to Withernsea!"
I cycled past the gas terminals at Easington and through Out Newton and Holmpton. Past a really nice looking pub and arrived at the top of the hill looking down at Withernsea and what a lovely place it looked, even with a lighthouse in the middle of the town like Southwold.
Now remember I'd left Cleethorpes late and by now it was 5 o'clock and what I should have done was knock on the door of one of the B&Bs I passed but I was determined to reach Spurn and then Withernsea but it was alll abig mistake.
First of all I cycled happilly out onto the start of Spurn Point but after onle a few hundred yards ground to a halt in loose sand several inches deep. Now most of you will know that loose sand is impossible to cycle in and I was still nearly 3 miles from the end so it would have meant parking the bike and walking a round trip of over 5 miles. Reluctantly I decided to take photo from where I was and set off for Withernsea and here was my second and even bigger mistake.
As people all along the Yorkshire coast told me for the next few days when I related the story:
"You don't want to go to Withernsea!"
I cycled past the gas terminals at Easington and through Out Newton and Holmpton. Past a really nice looking pub and arrived at the top of the hill looking down at Withernsea and what a lovely place it looked, even with a lighthouse in the middle of the town like Southwold.
Down the hill and into the town and then I looked for the tourist office because they always have a list of vacancies in the window. Unfortunately the window had solid steel shutters-bit strange I thought in a tourist area. Next I headed for the lighthouse as there was bound to be accomodation near there- nothing in sight. To cut a long story short I cycled round and round a very run down looking town and found no sign of anywhere to stay. Now I'm sorry to call it run down if you live there but I was really surprised as I'd been expecting something very different.
I stopped and asked a lady and she said there weren't any B&Bs but then remembered seeing a sign on the seafront and so off I went to investigate.
Down on the front I came across a line of houses and halfway along found one with a tatty note in the window advertising accomodation. I knocked and the door was answered by a man who said he had a room for £25. He showed me in and the door of the first room was poen. This was his room and it had a huge double bed and junk piled up all around it. My first thought was that it looked exactly like the sitting room in Steptoe and Son.
He showed me to a room next to his. "You're nearly ensuite," he said pointing to a bathroom right next door.
I was advised that I must pay in cash and to take my bike into the room as it might disappear. I paid up and then got ready for a shower. In the bathroom I found a line of towels and toothbrushes- my "nearly ensuite" was being used by all the other guests as well. It turned out that it was more a boarding house than guesthouse. Later I could hear babies crying and people coughing but never ever saw anybody.
My room had a nasty human bodilly functions smell and the powerpoints were overloaded with wires going from my room, under the door and off to power up other parts of the house.
I stopped and asked a lady and she said there weren't any B&Bs but then remembered seeing a sign on the seafront and so off I went to investigate.
Down on the front I came across a line of houses and halfway along found one with a tatty note in the window advertising accomodation. I knocked and the door was answered by a man who said he had a room for £25. He showed me in and the door of the first room was poen. This was his room and it had a huge double bed and junk piled up all around it. My first thought was that it looked exactly like the sitting room in Steptoe and Son.
He showed me to a room next to his. "You're nearly ensuite," he said pointing to a bathroom right next door.
I was advised that I must pay in cash and to take my bike into the room as it might disappear. I paid up and then got ready for a shower. In the bathroom I found a line of towels and toothbrushes- my "nearly ensuite" was being used by all the other guests as well. It turned out that it was more a boarding house than guesthouse. Later I could hear babies crying and people coughing but never ever saw anybody.
My room had a nasty human bodilly functions smell and the powerpoints were overloaded with wires going from my room, under the door and off to power up other parts of the house.
After my shower I was just leaving my room to go into town when my host opened his door, poked his head out and said, "By the way, forgot to tell you, I used to do breakfasts but I can't be bothered anymore." He shut the door and that was the last I ever saw of him.
I'm afraid I didn't find the town much better. The pubs along the main street were all very similar in that they basically only sold larger, there was very little food on offer and each had a large group of smokers on either side of the entrance. Now I'm sure there must be a good side to Withernsea but I didn't see it so if you live there please put the record straight.
That night I lay in bed and listened to the sounds of a boarding house full of mysterious and invisible people and it it suddenly came to me that this was just like Rising Damp-that old tv series- but I think Rigsby would have got a higher star rating! I dare not mention names for fear of legal action!
Next morning I woke at 6am, got up and went, probably never to return. Every time I think about my trip now I can't get "You don't want to go to Withernsea," out of my head.
Later on my trip I spoke to a man who'd also been to Withernsea and he said he'd gone to the Tourist Information Office and asked what attractions were there. He was told about the lighthouse and so said he would go there right now. "Sorry,", she said, " it's closed today."
P.S. The rest of Yorkshire was brilliant.
I'm afraid I didn't find the town much better. The pubs along the main street were all very similar in that they basically only sold larger, there was very little food on offer and each had a large group of smokers on either side of the entrance. Now I'm sure there must be a good side to Withernsea but I didn't see it so if you live there please put the record straight.
That night I lay in bed and listened to the sounds of a boarding house full of mysterious and invisible people and it it suddenly came to me that this was just like Rising Damp-that old tv series- but I think Rigsby would have got a higher star rating! I dare not mention names for fear of legal action!
Next morning I woke at 6am, got up and went, probably never to return. Every time I think about my trip now I can't get "You don't want to go to Withernsea," out of my head.
Later on my trip I spoke to a man who'd also been to Withernsea and he said he'd gone to the Tourist Information Office and asked what attractions were there. He was told about the lighthouse and so said he would go there right now. "Sorry,", she said, " it's closed today."
P.S. The rest of Yorkshire was brilliant.
Day 19: Withernsea to Filey 55miles
Hornsea-coast to coast sign.
Left Withernsea early, without breakfast but luckily things soon got better.First of all just outside, as I was fitting my panniers on a lady walking her dog stopped for a chat and when she found out what I was doing she shook my hand and said "Good luck love." A good start to good day.
The B1242 is an excellent cycling road, seaside and countryside scenery and no real hills. The other good news was that there were no B&Bs along it so I didn't feel so bad. There's nothing worse than having stayed somewhere awful and then finding better just around the corner.
With the wind behind me I was in Hornsea by 9am and what a difference. You could tell at a glance that this was a different sort of place. It's the end of one of the coast to coast routes-220miles. Had my photo taken next to the sign and then found a super little cafe where a full English breakfast, with toast and coffee, set me me back all of £3.
Spoke to a girl about accomodation and she told me that there were lots of guesthouses and that some of them were so posh that they had bathrooms in the bedrooms! I really liked Hornsea and would certainly go back- if I'd left Cleethorpes earlier would have probably got here the night before but then I wouldn't have the story to tell.
The B1242 is an excellent cycling road, seaside and countryside scenery and no real hills. The other good news was that there were no B&Bs along it so I didn't feel so bad. There's nothing worse than having stayed somewhere awful and then finding better just around the corner.
With the wind behind me I was in Hornsea by 9am and what a difference. You could tell at a glance that this was a different sort of place. It's the end of one of the coast to coast routes-220miles. Had my photo taken next to the sign and then found a super little cafe where a full English breakfast, with toast and coffee, set me me back all of £3.
Spoke to a girl about accomodation and she told me that there were lots of guesthouses and that some of them were so posh that they had bathrooms in the bedrooms! I really liked Hornsea and would certainly go back- if I'd left Cleethorpes earlier would have probably got here the night before but then I wouldn't have the story to tell.
Leaving Hornsea I set off through Atwick and Skipsea and then joined the A165 for the run into Bridlington-a lovely bustling seaside town. Lots of fish and chip shops as was normal all up the easty coast but a really nice feel to the place. Had a mug of tea from a kiosk overlooking the harbour and had a good chat to the owner who offered to keep an eye on my bike while I went for an explore. My wife had been here as a child so I gave her a live walkabout over the mobile phone.
A great discovery now was a vegetarian cafe called BeanThere. What a brilliant cafe. The best food I'd had on the whole trip-I shall return. Turned out the owner's husband was an artist and sold a lot of his work in Cornwall. Had noticed that in his work on the walls all the boats had Pz or SS on them. When I got talking to him it turned out that he had taken his work down to galleries in Cornwall and had been told to change the boat registration marks from Whitby and Grimsby to Penzance and St Ives. He said he had had to go to B&Q in Penzance to buy materials to make the changes and now does very well.
Not sure but the cafe may have changed hands since I was there-let me know if you live nearby- hope it stays as good if it has.
A great discovery now was a vegetarian cafe called BeanThere. What a brilliant cafe. The best food I'd had on the whole trip-I shall return. Turned out the owner's husband was an artist and sold a lot of his work in Cornwall. Had noticed that in his work on the walls all the boats had Pz or SS on them. When I got talking to him it turned out that he had taken his work down to galleries in Cornwall and had been told to change the boat registration marks from Whitby and Grimsby to Penzance and St Ives. He said he had had to go to B&Q in Penzance to buy materials to make the changes and now does very well.
Not sure but the cafe may have changed hands since I was there-let me know if you live nearby- hope it stays as good if it has.
While I was eating in the cafe I picked up the local Bridlington Newspaper and the first article I saw was all about Helston Flora- another small world episode.
After lunch and chats I felt much more positive and set off for Flamborough Head. Turned out to be closed. Now what I mean is that there were coaches parked, parties of schoolchildren and lots of walkers, birdwatchers and families but all the facilities were shut. Nowhere for a cup of tea! Seems strange that at a time when businesses are supposed to be struggling a lot of trade was being lost.
Cycled back to Flamborough village- Bakers(closed), butchers(closed), hairdressers(closed), perhaps they all follow the same halfday Weds up here still so it was on to the next village, Bempton-you guessed it everything was closed.Oh well on to Filey then, first along the B1229 and then the A165..
After lunch and chats I felt much more positive and set off for Flamborough Head. Turned out to be closed. Now what I mean is that there were coaches parked, parties of schoolchildren and lots of walkers, birdwatchers and families but all the facilities were shut. Nowhere for a cup of tea! Seems strange that at a time when businesses are supposed to be struggling a lot of trade was being lost.
Cycled back to Flamborough village- Bakers(closed), butchers(closed), hairdressers(closed), perhaps they all follow the same halfday Weds up here still so it was on to the next village, Bempton-you guessed it everything was closed.Oh well on to Filey then, first along the B1229 and then the A165..
The second B&B I tried was Cherries and it was really excellent, what change from Withernsea. A lovely double ensuite room and Whitby kippers on the menu for breakfast. The couple who own it took over two years ago. John is a local man who was in the navy for 30 years and his wife Marcia is a Beaver Scout leader and loves walking, theatre and cooking. John loves sea angling and so we had something to talkabout. By the way I didn't find all this information by being nosey-it was in the guests guidebook. www.cherriesfiley.co.uk
Maria recommended Bonhommes Bar for real ale and she was right-a young landlord trying to promote real ale from micro breweries-could have done without the loud music though. No food in the pub so popped out for fish and chips.
I liked Filey and when I got back to my room even got to watch Alan Sugar's apprentices crucifying Margate, where I'd stayed earlier in the trip.
Maria recommended Bonhommes Bar for real ale and she was right-a young landlord trying to promote real ale from micro breweries-could have done without the loud music though. No food in the pub so popped out for fish and chips.
I liked Filey and when I got back to my room even got to watch Alan Sugar's apprentices crucifying Margate, where I'd stayed earlier in the trip.
Day 20: Filey to Whitby 35miles (not far today-too beautiful to rush)
Cobble Landing-Filey
Brilliant breakfast and then cycled around Filey and down to the seafront- Cobble Landing they call it. After a photo or two it was up the ravine and onto the A1039 and then the A165 and along to Scarborough.
When you are about 5 miles from Scarborough you come across a fantastic cycle route using the old road that takes you into Scarborough through some very well heeled parts of the town and then brings you out onto the gardens overlooking the town-beautiful views. Well done North Yorkshire.
Felt like Bath by the seaside with lovely crescents and tall houses that are probably retirement flats.
When you are about 5 miles from Scarborough you come across a fantastic cycle route using the old road that takes you into Scarborough through some very well heeled parts of the town and then brings you out onto the gardens overlooking the town-beautiful views. Well done North Yorkshire.
Felt like Bath by the seaside with lovely crescents and tall houses that are probably retirement flats.
Cycled down into the town centre and here came across Richardson's Cycles and what a lucky find it was. Debbie and Ian were so helpful. Immediately out came the OS map and they told me all about the old railway line from Scarborough to Whitby. Lovely people and a lovely shop.
www.richardsonscyclesscarborough.co.uk
Coffeee and scone down by the harbour and then I was off up a few hills and past the Youth Hostel.
The route starts at Burniston and is 20 miles long cycling along some absolutely magnificent clifftop scenery. The first few miles are a gentle incline up to Ravenscar which marks the highest point on the line but to be honest you really didn't notice you were going up. Ravenscar is a town that was never built and a fascinating story. It looks like a building site mothballed because of the credit crunch but it has been like that for over 100years.
www.richardsonscyclesscarborough.co.uk
Coffeee and scone down by the harbour and then I was off up a few hills and past the Youth Hostel.
The route starts at Burniston and is 20 miles long cycling along some absolutely magnificent clifftop scenery. The first few miles are a gentle incline up to Ravenscar which marks the highest point on the line but to be honest you really didn't notice you were going up. Ravenscar is a town that was never built and a fascinating story. It looks like a building site mothballed because of the credit crunch but it has been like that for over 100years.
From here there is the most tremendous off road section to Robin Hood's Bay. The views are truly magnificent. I had been looking forward to the Yorkshire coast and it was not disappointing. As I left Ravenscar Robin Hood's Bay just opened up in front of me and it really took my breath away.
This route would be ideal for a family-it's just rough enough to be exciting for children but smooth enough for most road bikes. Robin Hoods Bay was quite busy and as an ex teacher I loved talking to some of the school parties knowing I could go off and leave them and was not going to be kept awake till the early hours of the morning.
This route would be ideal for a family-it's just rough enough to be exciting for children but smooth enough for most road bikes. Robin Hoods Bay was quite busy and as an ex teacher I loved talking to some of the school parties knowing I could go off and leave them and was not going to be kept awake till the early hours of the morning.
It's no exaggeration to say that you can almost go from Ravenscar to Whitby without peddaling and this was the best day of the trip so far. As you approach the outskirts of Whitby you cycle across an old viaduct and get your first site of the abbey.
The weather forecast for the next day was horrendous and as I'd really looked forward to visiting Whitby I decided to have a day off and explore.
Alison had booked me into Grantley House for B&B but when she phoned again to ask for 2 nights she was told he only had a room available for one but that I could stay at his mother's guesthouse for the second night. When I arrived at the house Justin asked if I would prefer to stay both nights at his mothers as it would save moving and so I agreed. He walked me around a couple of streets to his mother's house. When we got there he explained that she was actually away and that I had the whole house to myself.
"The washing machine is in the kitchen if you want to use it. Just come around to my house for breakfast in the morning." he gave me the keys and left me to it.
And so I had a lovely double room looking across to the abbey and a large three storey townhouse all to myself. What lovely trusting people. What a difference Filey and Whitby were to my experiences in Withernsea. www.grantleyhouse.com
The weather forecast for the next day was horrendous and as I'd really looked forward to visiting Whitby I decided to have a day off and explore.
Alison had booked me into Grantley House for B&B but when she phoned again to ask for 2 nights she was told he only had a room available for one but that I could stay at his mother's guesthouse for the second night. When I arrived at the house Justin asked if I would prefer to stay both nights at his mothers as it would save moving and so I agreed. He walked me around a couple of streets to his mother's house. When we got there he explained that she was actually away and that I had the whole house to myself.
"The washing machine is in the kitchen if you want to use it. Just come around to my house for breakfast in the morning." he gave me the keys and left me to it.
And so I had a lovely double room looking across to the abbey and a large three storey townhouse all to myself. What lovely trusting people. What a difference Filey and Whitby were to my experiences in Withernsea. www.grantleyhouse.com
I had alovely evening and following day in Whitby. Drank some good real ales, visited the library, the museum and sent some kippers home by post. They were posted at 5pm and were in Penzance the next morning. I was on the phone to Alison when the postman came and so heard them opened to shrieks of surprise. She had them for lunch.
It poured with rain all day and so I didn't feel at all guilty about having a day off. I was even lent an umbrella for the day. Alison found a Whitby webcam and saw me walking out on the pier- what would captain Cooke have made of this modern technology.
I sampled the local fish and chips and laughed at the signs in all the chip shop windows: "Best Fish and chip shop in Britain" "Best young fish frier of the year." "Best as voted by people of Whitby" Every chip shop had a claim to fame. The most famous in Whitby is the Magpie Cafe-"Best in the World!" -there was queue outside it all day long and this was only mid May.
The artwork in the museum reminded me so much of home except that they were all by the Staithes School of Artists as opposed to the Newlyn School. I shall certainly return here for a longer stay.
It poured with rain all day and so I didn't feel at all guilty about having a day off. I was even lent an umbrella for the day. Alison found a Whitby webcam and saw me walking out on the pier- what would captain Cooke have made of this modern technology.
I sampled the local fish and chips and laughed at the signs in all the chip shop windows: "Best Fish and chip shop in Britain" "Best young fish frier of the year." "Best as voted by people of Whitby" Every chip shop had a claim to fame. The most famous in Whitby is the Magpie Cafe-"Best in the World!" -there was queue outside it all day long and this was only mid May.
The artwork in the museum reminded me so much of home except that they were all by the Staithes School of Artists as opposed to the Newlyn School. I shall certainly return here for a longer stay.